tt5th

Can't speak for the 03 as mines a 99, I think they changed the forks and carb by the time it go to 03. Very solid bikes, reliable and mine doesn't mind being thrown down rocks. Huge improvement over the Climber. Mines quite aggressive, feels like a crosser at times, suits me but not for everyone. Not sure if this changed with the change of carb on the later model. Problems are sticky clutch (had to change the steel plates before mine felt good) and weak front brake (mines been fine).

I wrote a daft little program to help with that, you can download it from - http://www.johnholburn.co.uk/2StrokeOilMix.zip Unzip it somewhere and run the setup program, any hassles let me know. Runs in XP, not sure about vista. I can guarantee it has no virus's as I don't know how to write them! Hope thats useful to someone.

80:1 and whatever you fancy, a decent quality Semi-Synthetic I've found works well. I've been using Motul 510 or Ipone.

Sandifords will do you an original one, BVM moto will do you a WES one.

Thanks Andy!! I spend that long in the forum I forget to venture out and check the front page!

I did the Fremington trial on Sunday and just wondered if anyone had had the results? I gave them a bell today and they said they had been uploaded to the Darlington Motor Club site as usual but I still have them as 'not available yet'. Just wondering if it's just my stupid computer? If anyone has them I'd be very grateful if you could email them to me - tt5th@aol.com Thanks.

Blocked air filter I'd change first. Make sure you squeeze all that excess oil off the filter.

The Castrol 'Edge' (Gold Bottle) 10W40 is easy to find and recommended by Sandifords. Bit pricey though so I sometimes use the PJ1 Clutch Tuner Oil which works fine. Best clutch 'feel' in my opinion comes from the ELF stuff but I always forget to mail order it and end up buying something else the day before a trial!

PM me your email address.

Always worth changing the o ring. Could be letting air or fuel flow to places its not supposed to be. Not sure on the jet sizes, the carb you have quoted from is a different type of carb, not sure how it works so i can't comment. Can't remember what my jet sizes are but I'll have a look next time it's stripped down.

Sounds like you need to change the baffle packing in your back box? Not sure about the Sherco, on some its just a matter of grinding off some rivets to open the exhuast and then re-rivet, others just have screws and some you actually have to angle grind open and re-weld which sounds like a nightmare!

If you PM me your email address (and I can work out how) I'll send you the diagram for the 02 carb which i think's the same. It's easy enough to strip and clean one, just be gentle with the brass screws and keep an eye on every thing that comes out so you can put it back in the same way. You can buy some carb cleaner to squirt through the jets and passages from Halfords or similar. Be careful doing this as I squirted the cleaner in one hole and it popped out another into my eye! Not fun! Are you in the UK? If so it should run fine on super unleaded. Check your spark plug to get an idea of how lean/rich the bike is running. If you had a hole in the exhaust before I would have thought this would effect how it runs especially if it had been set up to compensate for the hole in the first place.

When I first got mine that happened a couple times when I wasn't used to routing the throttle cable, many hours later it's still sounding sweet as a nut.

When me and my mates go out to practice on private land with full permission, we go out for maybe 5 or 6 hours at time and like to take a couple of tins of beer each. The general theme is to dump them in a stream and return there for our breaks. Just wondering if it's just us that do this? Or are we breaking an unwritten rule of trials? All opinions welcomed!

Michelin, then you'll never have to wonder "What if.......?"

Use the 'super unleaded'. You can even add octane booster (from most motorfactors halfords etc) if you want although we have enough Octane in our petrol over here that I doubt it'd be necessary. I experimented with this when i got mine but in the end it just needed a top end re-build

10 - 40 is standard. 9 - 40 is better for me in trials. 5th gear is a big jump from 4th though, obviously made for road work i would say.

I would go to - Nigel Birkett - http://www.birkettmotosportukltd.co.uk/ or J K Hirst - http://www.jkhirst.co.uk/acatalog/store.html Give them a ring if its not listed on their site.

I like Castrol Edge and Elf 740 but don't like PJ1.

My friends' has a gold paint job with 'Golner' on it if I remember rightly. I'm seeing him tomorrow so I'll see if I can take a photo and ask him how original it is. Edit: I don't remember rightly - white frame, black engine, with a faded red or orange tank and gold 'Golner' stickers. I'm waiting for him to text me a photo.

That's a good call! I'm going to remember that one! If it's not that.... Is it just when the bike gets really hot? If so might be worth checking electrical things like the stator windings with a multimeter. I've had problems before with a knackered stator winding on a nother bike that only caused problems when the bike was hot, shouldn't happen on an 04 though and surely not on a honda engine! Does it run fine cold now? If not strip and clean the carb, clean the air filter and check the sparkplug isn't fouled.

Sounds like a good plan, re-reading my post I would have ended up with a garden shed on wheels!

I live by my torque wrench! If I don't use it inevitably I will shear or strip bolts. In fact even when I do use it I still manage to! (But that's only cos I was using the wrong settings!) Even if you don't have a manual you can get an idea of the max torque of a particular thickness of bolt from lots of sites online. In my opinion it just saves the worry. Once its done you know its right. And I hate taking something off only to find the previous owner has done something up far too tight and you end up rounding it off!!

Or you could save

Seals is a bread and butter job, easy enough but you will need to make a 'special tool' to hold the damper rod while you undo the damper bolt. Mines a piece of steel 're-bar' with a flat tip screw driver end welded on the end. Only met one fork it wouldn't do! You stick it down the stanchion. If you need more info on the process let me know, I've done loads of them now! I've heard of people using a broom handle carved to a point with success too! You shouldn't need to replace the dust seals, just the oil ones. Fork oil weight - I'm 15 stone and use 7.5 as recommend by 'Al the Spanner' of Whites and I can't bottom it out. I'm sure 10 should be enough for you. For best advice give Sandifords a call. When it comes to Mont's they really know there stuff. Pre-load does come down to the springs though so again ask Sandifords, they'll let you know the best options.