tt5th

50:1 ratio (100ml oil to 5L Petrol) and I'd use a semi-synthetic oil.

I'd check out online and get some mail ordered to you.

I don't like 'em, prefer IRC or Michelin any day.

What he said! Although people do use the iridium BPR one on the 315 with reported success so it doesn't foul the piston on this engine.

Yeh sorry that was my bad terminology - its a transmission breather.

I only mentioned it because mine randomly fell out somewhere the other week! Didn't notice until I had water in the gearbox, 3 oil changes later and I think I'm happy its survived fine. Replacements are cheap from Sandifords and can be fitted with a screwdriver! I'm like you, not really an expert on bottom ends I'm afraid

Water could get into your gearbox if the seal on the shaft of the water pump impeller had gone or if you've lost the crankcase breather hose and its got in when pressure washing. Or maybe if the clutch side crankcase gasket has gone. I don't think theres anywhere else....

Remove shock. Apply Hammer. Apply Hammer. Replace Shock. Sorted? On a serious note.... You'll have to pop out the seals and on one side there will be a circlip style thing securing the bearing that needs removing. Take that out and hammer from the other side. Do it in reverse to reinstall. I find sockets work well as makeshift 'drifts' to make sure you are knocking it out via the outer race.

Are you new to trials or have you been bouncing bikes about before? It seems more about technique than anything. That said my mates scorpa seems to feel a lot easier to bounce about than my 315. You can get the different rear linkage plates from H and D racing or others that change the action of the rear shock a little making it a bit more lively.

Same in the UK,

I didn't! And you were lucky, thats easily the best save I've ever done, any other day and i would have been buying you a set of bars!

Nah they're tough old beasts, should be fine!

Hi, The air inlet pipe should be on one of the nipples on the right, then the vent pipe with the slash in it goes between the remaining nipples, one on the right, one on the left. I can't remember exactly which one the air inlet pipe should be on, i think its fairly obvious but I'll have a check later. Check you haven't pressed on the throttle cable when replacing the tank. If its not that check your fuel supply, make sure nothings blocked or pipes kinked, lack of fuel will make it run lean which will cause it to rev lots. Edit: Just had a look on the parts diagram, the inlet pipe goes on the nipple you can't see on the diagram!

+1 on the bikes usually being spot on starting. Mine's also 2nd kick whenever, choke on to start then straight back off again. I agree its most likely to be the carb. A cheap thing to try would be a new plug cap if still no joy. If still not starting you'll need a multimeter and start checking the resistances of the coil and stator and such.

This is a link to a parts diagram of how the standard exhaust is - APEX INFO PAGE The exhaust is 3 pieces, front pipe, mid box and silencer. The silencer slips onto the mid box but is only held in place with one bolt. The silencer is easily repackable, the mid box has to be cut and welded. Sandifords will have the standard silencer in stock or I got my WES silencer from BVM Moto i think.

I need to check my manual more! Sorry my bad, i got my carb settings the wrong way round. Can't remember what the setting for the earlier carb is exactly but 2 to 3 turns sounds about right. Apologies for the leading you up the proverbial garden path!

I would guess its the 280 cylinder head bored out to 300 at the factory. Have to agree that I don't think I've seen a more honest looking bike/ebay sale in months!

What year is the bike? On the 315's up to 2000 the carb air screw should be 1 turn out. With those symptoms and a clean carb I would change the spark plug. Good luck.

Depends how OCD you are! Once I know something is broken i HAVE to fix it, its a horrible expensive habit of mine. That said I rode for a year with half an inch play in the rear with no problems that I noticed. It was only when I measured the amount of play I realised the bearings were shot. Not even sure I can tell the difference now I've done it BUT I know its fixed

Everything you've said sounds fine. Lorica is less prone to cracking when dry compared to leather so they're actually a little easier to look after and seem to take a little more neglect before failing.

The rear shock linkage bearings on the 315 are prone to getting water in and rusting away. The up and down play should be no more than a few mm with good bearings, if its more than that I'd look at replacing some.

I've got a '99 and it doesn't have a reserve position so check before setting off! I reckon I can run for 2 to 3 hours on a tank depending on the workload.

It's a Shonda! I wouldn't kick it out of bed if its been done well.... Not sure what 'recomishing' it needs though....

Nah, I just lean the bike over, plenty of newspaper and a 1 Litre jug or a washing up bowl works The skid plate can be a pain in the ass to put back on, especially if its bent.

The only manual that seems to be readily available is for the 2002 which has a slightly different carb but will give you a rough idea. Check out the diagram for the 98 carb HERE A simple clean just involves undoing the bottom bolt and removing the lower half of the carb. Do this with the carb upright as on the bike and take note of which way round the floats sit in the float bowl as you lower the bottom half off. With this off you can just spray carb cleaner or an airline through the various holes. I strongly recommend using eye protection at this point as the carb cleaner has a nasty habit of popping out of a hole you're not expecting it to! For a proper clean you start unscrewing all the jets, the choke system and the fuel inlet (which has a little filter). Blow through everything with an aerosol carb cleaner or with an air line and reassemble. They are brass screws so don't over tighten them, just nip them up. However there is a lot to be said for the old "if its not broken....."