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I think mine must have fallen off I'll have a check tonight!

1. I'm not sure what you mean by sub filter.. Where is it? It's not something i've ever cleaned obviously! 2. You could change the coolant to be on the safe side. I buy a 1L castrol and that fills it with plenty left. To fill undo the bleed bolt on the top of the cylinder head, fill with coolant until it starts coming out of the hole, then replace the bolt and fill it to the top of the radiator neck. 3. Hunt down a low pressure gauge from a trials shop. Apico make a nice one. 4. Not sure but its not a lot of hassle to take the wheel off.

Gaernes - lovely fit, quality leather.

Master cylinders are generic, you just need the right brake line. If the one you have won't fit any good bike garage should be able to make you one up with the right fittings. The Nissin cylinders from Honda motocross bikes are good.

If the section is tight I'll look close and concentrate on front wheel placement. I pick a route first and have waypoints in my mind like - hit this root, then over to that rock on the left, then back across to that rock etc. For slippy banks get your weight as far back as you can and use plenty of approach speed to avoid throttle on the hill as much as possible. All that said I'm not very good so I'm sure theres more qualified people on here to put you right!

Could try changing your sprockets, dropping the front to a 9 would slow it down a bit.

He had it advertised as a 2004 model all the way through until I politely pointed out that it looked very much like a '99!

Yeh get some dubbing from a walking shop or a saddlers. Try and find an oily one, although any is better than none. Then apply loads, do it over a few days each time working in the dubbing till it softens up again. Never force dry boots and look after the leather regularly.

Everything he said! I'm a fan of the PJ1 oil but make sure its the 75W ultralight stuff, I made the mistake of getting the 80W and it was no good. The bearings on the rear shock linkage and dogbones are bad for getting water in and rusting away. Check the play in the rear end and give it all a good grease every few months. Clean the air filter regularly, I clean mine after every trial or after about 6 hrs of practice. Just loses a bit of its response once it gets a little clogged. Also worth removing and washing out the airbox every now and then as the placement means the back wheel constantly flings mud at it which has a habit of getting in between the box and the mudguard. Suspension setup is a good one, I was amazed at the difference it made when I set it somewhere closer to correct for my weight. As a rule of thumb I work on the basis that the sag in suspension when you get aboard the bike should be about a third of the total travel of the shock. Its just the pre-load you're adjusting which is the left fork leg as you're sat on the bike, and the screw collars on the rear shock. Its a bit of a rough way of setting things so if anyone has better tips I'd be all ears! Don't be afraid to mess with sprockets sizes to find a feel thats right for you. I dropped the front from a 10 tooth to a 9 to slow it down a little as most of the trials round here are tight and rocky. With a 9 tooth front and 42 rear I do 90% sections in first gear. Watch out when you take the tank off that when you put it back on everything is routed nicely. The fuel line can kink if not properly in place and the throttle cable can be pulled out of its collar. Always check the throttle is returning properly or it'll rev to the hills when you kick it over and have you diving for the kill switch! I just twist the throttle a few times before I start it and make sure I can hear the clunk of the carb slide thing seating in the bottom of the carb. Other than that quality clubman bike. Solid as a rock and reasonably priced spares all in stock at Sandifords.

What are the benefits to moto x? And why wouldn't they apply to trials? I'm not really sure why bikes have upside down forks anyway.... Something to do with reducing unsprung weight? Either way I'm fairly sure the Reeth rocks would make short work of those stanchions without some extra guards!

Wow if it rides half as good as it looks I want one!

Yeah I think you need a nipple! Mine has a nipple. Give Sandifords a call, I reckon you'll be looking about

In the manual linked to here - Link... Section 4-11 shows the slave cylinder with what looks like a bleed nipple so not sure why your's hasn't got one... I would double check on my bike but its cold out! Will have a check tomorrow. I guess if you haven't got one, you need a nipple! I've not bled the clutch on mine yet so I'm not sure how it'd go.

Hi, 520ml in gear box, use something thin like the PJ1 75w Ultralight. 80:1 on your premix which is 62.5ml oil per 5 Litres of petrol. 'In' refers to the inlet side so should be on the carb side with the 5M at the exhaust side. Cheers.

Just noticed some guy trying to charge money for freely available stuff which always annoys me. Given that for most of us this is a hobby that we all indulge in for fun I'm a big believer in the community helping each other. Just to remind everyone the parts list is available from the Apex website (I haven't worked out how to save this off the site yet but even if I had I wouldn't charge you 3 quid for my skills.....); Apex parts list.... They also have a out of date price list that will give you a rough idea of the cost of parts; Apex 315 price list.... And i can't remember where I got this from but its freely about - a 2002 315 manual. The forks and carb are different but the rest is for all years. 2002 315 Manual.... Hope this helps someone out!

Mine runs fine on either UK pump petrol - 93 or 97. I usually use 97 but can't say I notice much of a difference. I mix it at 80:1 with a fully synthetic oil. With the running well at high revs but feeling like its pushing at low revs - Obviously I'm not sure its the same experience but I think mine was doing something similar, at low revs it was jumpy and I ended up using a kind of all or nothing style of throttle control. Reminded me a bit of a motocross bike. After much carb cleaning it turned out it was the baffles and packing in the mid-box of the exhaust had gone completely. A local motorbike guy cut it open, packed it and welded it, made a world of difference. Loads smoother bottom end and more power lower down in the rev range so I don't have to cane it so often. Worth checking - just pop off the silencer and stick a torchlight into the mid box. With the age of these bikes if its not been changed or repacked its likely a lot of them have mush for baffles!

No Problem, glad you got it sorted.

Change that spark plug first if its all black. You can clean old ones, I use sandpaper but make sure you rinse it a lot with a light oil like wd-40 before you use it again. I dry it with tissue paper after. If the spark plug is new the gap should be fine, they are set from the factory and 100% of the time I've checked them its been right. 0.7mm if I remember correctly. If still no joy take that final jet out of the carb and clean it.

Just a thought, did you just look in the carb or actually remove and clean the jets? Just thinking a blockage in your idle jet could be hard to spot by eye.

Strange one, could be a knackered plug cap or a loose earth wire on the coil maybe? I'd personally change the spark plug anyway. If still no joy then you'll have to get a tester out and check the resistances on the coil and stator. And yes that hose on the carb is supposed to be cut.

I'm using Ipone 2 stroke oil at the mo - it smells of strawberries.... sort of!

I'd start with the the spark plug, make sure its not fouled. Then i'd check for a spark. If no spark I'd check the kill switch and then the stator. If there's a spark then i'd check the petrol is getting to the carb. I imagine the air filter is mostly clean. If it starts but only cuts out when it gets hot it could be the stator.

Nah it won't be cotton in this day and age, wax away! I don't think wax rots cotton stitching anyway, only the petrochemical based dubbing. The grangers G-Wax is vegtable oil and beeswax i think, as natural as you like!

Thats because the SY uses the Yamaha TYZ engine and not the Yamaha TY mono engine.

The engine is 800ml and a 10w30, I like the Strata oil I use from Clarkes in Eaglescliffe. Can't remember the fork oil at the moment.....