tt5th

Its at the back of the engine towards the bottom. Its screwed in horizontally rather than vertically. Fairly big bolt, M12 or M14 I would guess.

Ah ha! Why thank you for clearing that up!

Which model TY250 is it that uses a 53T rear sprocket? I thought it was 42T then drop the front to 11T or 10T depending on how slow you need to go.

I like your style!

When I bought the bike and was 'sprucing' it up I might have been tempted (in black) but been there done that and quite happy with my carbon fibre style ones. Mind you

Throttle cable needs to be routed spot on when replacing the tank. Something to check first, I found it was the cable having being pulled out of the sleeve near the carb. Just needs to be pushed in if it is.

Hey, The forest is always a bit of a nightmare, I took a great tumble trying to get over the big log. Whacked open the throttle, got nothing but slippage, whanged my bash plate on it and fell over backwards. Definately my best for a while! And that branch! Didn't do it this time but plenty of times before! I'm guessing the one with the stream on the right hand side? I was photographing just down from there and saw at least 4 people fall victim to it! With regards to the starting point (and i am gutted for you not realising, I saw that on the scores ) the idea is to start off the classes at different sections to minimise congestion at the start - ie. 200 riders turning up at section one. This way its splits the pack up a bit so there isn't as much queing. Bugger if you don't know whats going on though. If you fancy an easier day out I would recommend one of the Darlington trials in our area, they're usually a bit easier going and if you give me a shout you're welcome to tag along on the ride round. Next one is the 22nd at Penn Hill nr Leyburn. John.

Cheers! And if anyone else is on Facebook and wants to tag themselves or anyone they know please do so.

Finished early so took the opportunity to have my first try at trials photography! I got pics of about 50 riders. This should be a public link to the Facebook album..... Let me know if it doesn't work. ClickyClicky

I'd stick with the original one, I have the WES one on mine and just think its a bit too crackly for my taste.

No aircooled classes round here either otherwise I'd have my Ty out every week! Bits might be an issue, you could ring Sandifords and see if they can point you in the right direction before you buy it.

Hey Gunn It took me 3 trials before I managed to actually finish one and then another year to get out of the bottom of the table so patience is handy! Know your limits and set yourself goals for each time out. My current goal is to get regular top ten in clubman class and managed to get my second at 9th on Sunday! Couldn't believe it! Practice is real important as you get chance to work on techniques without the pressure and time constraints. Try some local landowners, most around here are sympathetic to trials riders and don't mind you practicing occasionally like once a month or so, if you get a few onside you can have a different regular riding place every week. A simple thing you can do at home in the garage is just stand on the bike and practice balancing in one place. I agree with all that, keeping it simple with the clutch and brake is definatley sensible to start with, just leaves you with throttle and balance to worry about! I would add always walk a section at least once and try to pick a route, on the first lap spend a bit of time watching other riders to see where the tricky spots of a section are and how they're tackling them. Don't be afraid to ask advice, trials is the friendliest sport I've ever got into and people are happy to help!

Definately worth a punt! Might cost you

Is the stitching actually coming away and the seam opening up? Or are there just loose threads visible? Sometimes in the manufacturing you get left with what look like loose threads from where the sewing machines finish their line, these are usually burnt off at the 'finishing' stage but sometimes can be forgotten. To the untrained eye it does give the impression that the seam is coming away. It its just loose threads then don't worry as the seam should still be as strong as intended (you can burn the threads off yourself if you like) If the seam is actually coming away then absolutely get your money back as provided the boots only have reasonable wear, or less then that, it is a manufacturing fault. 15 mins use is not 'reasonable wear' for the seams to be breaking!

A broom handle sharpened to a point or a 3 foot piece of steel re-bar with the end of a large philips screwdriver welded on the end.

No Yamaha?

Hi, Graham Jarvis runs trials training days on occasion, his numbers on his site - Graham Jarvis Site. Very useful.

Only sand the metal plates and with quite a coarse grade sand paper. Install the friction plates and metal plates alternately, starting with one of the 4 cork plates. If Cork friction = C, Paper friction = P and Steel Clutch plate = S it would go like this - C,S,C,S,C,S,C,S,P,S,P,S,P

You wouldn't want to paint your stanchions! Unfortunately the only option is rechroming (or try superglue and very fine/soft grit sandpaper if you just have some fine holes that are hurting your fork seals). The fork bottoms are just normal metal and can be sand blasted, primed and painted however you like.

Either Regina or DID will be fine, both quality makes.

And the only people i know who sell it are bvm wheras if i forget (which i often do) and need some in a hurry, PJ1 (or ATF I suppose) is available over the counter at 3 motorbike shops within 25 miles. (and 25 miles is good for me as i live 10 miles from any 'town' of sorts!)

If you email rebeccarennison@hotmail.com she took some or 'rennison photographic' group on facebook, she'll have a proper website up and about shortly I've heard.

I log on here at least once a day to see whats going on and I'm sure many others do the same. I can't see how anyone in the trials business wishing to raise their profile wouldn't advertise here!

I use the 75W one.

PJ1 works well for me, cheap enough and easy to find. Im my opinion DON'T use Castrol MTX I think it is, I put some in last week and it took about an hour to warm up enough to get rid of the clutch drag.