mcman56

I used a hand pump to pull the gas out. When leaning left on the stand some gas leaked when removing the petcock but not a large amount. I was then able to lean it right to get most of the gas into a funnel. The back part of the little black plastic lever had broken so was non functional. The parts list just shows the entire petcock assembly which is not cheap. Is the little lever available somewhere, maybe in a rebuild kit? This would be a really annoying failure mode to happen if you show up to a trial and need to manually get gas to the carb.

I have a 2016 Evo with the electronic petcock. I am getting no flow when turning the manual override lever. When I try kicking nothing dribbles out either. I need to pull the petcock to investigate. Is there another way to get the petcock open so I can drain the tank? I could try a hand pump to siphon out the gas but suspect there will still be a lot of gas flowing out when I remove the mounting bolt. Is there a cleanish way to do this? The odd thing is that the initial symptom was hard starting when cold or hot. The bike ran fine once started but I did start to get occasional odd noises in the exhaust. I adjusted the valves and cleaned the carb but when trying to start discovered this no flow issue.

Lampkins (Beta UK) did have a complete spare parts order system on line for all years and models. The UK mail system must be very good because I could frequently get parts delivered to the US in one week which was faster than most US suppliers. In the past, shipping cost was comparable but a few years ago shipping went up 2x or more so I have not used their site lately.

With the Jitsie electric start kit, the bank angle sensor assembly is removed. I'm not sure that is a good idea but assume it was done to make space for other components. I have seen no formal description of what the sensor assembly does but it likely cuts power to the fuel pump when the bike is on its side. I guess is could cut power to the whole FI system.

I also wonder why Montesa recommends very expensive oil for the transmission. I used that for the first change but plan to look for alternatives. I ride in mostly dry conditions.

The manual shows 15 hours as the oil/ filter change interval for a 2018 300. That sounds like an MX bike. Meanwhile, the Beta 4T manual shows 40 hours. What interval are people using?

Is the tool still available? I don't see anything in the 2018 300RR parts list or service manual. Searching online, I get no clear answer. Although, I see one for a CFR250 is pretty expensive so hard to justify https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/parts/honda-pgm-fi-setting-tool-p?srsltid=AfmBOoriVL_t6J6WD2_uqMxRoEZDE-ZnbgTGCmcIl9nImw-E11jsmHkL

My question was really related to an XT225 (Serow). The carb is a mikuni and looks similar to the Beta 4t carb so I was wondering if the Beta springs would work in the XT225 to improve response. I have made springs before so that is an option I had not thought about. Interesting comment on the 4RT. I have a 2016 Beta 4t standard model and recently got a 2018 300 4RT but find it harder to ride due to the sharp throttle response. It is difficult to get just a little bit of power and feels like it has about 1/3 of the throttle resolution compared to the Beta . Can the 4RT be tuned to respond more like the Beta? It does have the black throttle tube. I sort of remember options for early models that allowed the owners to tune or maybe load different maps. I'm not finding anything online so is anything like that still available. I know......the solution is to improve clutch control but with arthritic hands and the beginning of trigger finger in my clutch finger that is unlikely.

Has anyone experimented with these? Are the springs intended for higher elevations weaker? Can you get quicker response at sea level or do you just end up with pop and stall? https://betausa.com/evo-4-stroke-carb-spring/

California regulations are a mess and not clear cut at this time. Per CARB (California Air Resources Board), starting in 2022 bikes must meet certain emission standards or they get a competition only registration. Competition only now means it can only be used on public lands for closed course competitions. There are a lot of public lands here, like national forests and state run off road vehicle parks available for recreational riding so that is important. Per CARB the only bike 2022 and beyond that can get a registration for use on public lands is the EM. I talked to the Beta importer a while back and he said that it would not be difficult for their 4T to meet emission standards but the testing cost $40,000 and he did not sell enough to make it worthwhile. I'm sure this cost is now much higher and each model needs to be tested. But CARB does not make laws, that comes from the Department of Motor Vehicles and they continued to issue registrations that could be used on public lands recreationally, not only in competitions. This made it unclear what dealers should do and has not yet been resolved so in limbo. A couple of years ago, I had a run in with a park ranger that thought my bike had the wrong type of registration (green instead of red). He took the VIN and sent it to the Department of Motor Vehicles. Two weeks later, I received a letter from them stating that the bike had been improperly imported into the state. I needed to mail in my title and registration plus get the bike out of the state. I knew the original owner and he thought everything was done properly. California regulations are a mess. Whenever a California politician runs for national office, do your due diligence.

If you live in California, it has its own bizarre laws for off road vehicle registration. When shipping a bike within the US, I have been told it can be much easier and less expensive to partially disassemble and ship as motorcycle parts. Apparently, shipping regulations are different for parts vs entire motor vehicle. Depending on the state, a Certificate of Origin should be adequate to get it titled in your state.

One clean way to remove a pressed on inner bearing race is to machine it paper thin in one area with a carbide end mill. At that point it will crack and slide right off. Careful work with a hand grinder could probably produce a similar result.

The lower legs can be modified to accept standard size bushings.

With light oil and teflon coated bushes in the lower legs, I find the stock TY175 forks to work pretty well.

My Beta once ran the same exact way. It would idle nicely and doing tight turns was fine but if you tried to rev it up, it sputtered rich. I had left a rag in the air filter after washing the bike. You could inspect the air box. https://www.frankmxparts.com/rebuild-repair-kit-MK-BSR33-79-Mikuni-BSR-33-carburetor-2008-2022-Beta-EVO-300-4T-Trial IIRC, that model carb is also used on a 400cc quad. If you search the model number of the carb you should find what else it fits.