mcman56

I have some kick starter slipping on a 1993 Fantic 80. One gear mounts to the clutch cover and one is mounted on the cases behind the clutch. Is there a standard clearance that should be maintained?. (too much may be causeing my problem.)

I have always seen a gasket or an o-ring. Unfortunately, the on line parts list I found does not show that piece.

What type of seal is used on a 97 techno clutch cover? RTV silicone seems prone to leak. This bike had what appeared to be a ring of solder for a seal but it is no longer round so I can't tell the diameter. (I have heard of that before but can't remember where.)

On my '97 techno, some fiber plates are marked with a 1 and some are marked with a 2. The markings are on the little ears that engage the outer hub. Does this mean anything or denote an assembly order? Second, there is a washer under the inner hub. It looks like a standard hardware washer but I was expecting something surface ground on both sides. Is this correct? (I'm diagnosing a sticking/ dragging issue)

Can you run an AJP 4 piston caliper with a Gremeca front master cylinder? Are there any issues with this? The bike is a 1999 315.

I finally pulled the top end apart. The bottom of the piston in front of the exhaust port has a little crack and the piston is curled slightly inward for a height of about 0.150". At TDC, there was a leak from the crankcase to the exhaust port. I guess this disturbed the gas flow. The cylinder, crank and cases are without damage. It looks like mechanical damage....like someone stuck something in the exhaust port and then tried to kick the engine over. Weird! I have pictures for anyone into these types of things. The timing never did retard. Idle was about 6 degrees BTDC. Mid was 20. When the motor really screamed, it shot up to 25 or 30 degrees.

The electrics were in a box due to a non functioning fan. I replaced the rectifier, fixed a broken fan wire and remounted the stator. I found the timing spec of 2.7 mm btdc. Does anyone know at what RPM this specification should be met? Using a dial indicator and then timing light, it is at 2.7 in the mid rpm range.

I have a 97 Techno that has no response/ power. It runs like a Reflex (TLR200) with some top end. It runs consistently and does not knock or ping even when climbing a very long steep hill. (but did spit out coolant) I bought it not running with electrical problems and do not know it's history. The carb has had multiple cleanings (27.5 pilot, 140 main, 5C23 needle in mid position). I did follow the Billy T float set suggestions. Compression is 155 psi. (The same gauge reads 150 psi on an almost new Sherco 2.9) I cleaned the whole exhaust system and it did not smoke much on the long hill. The reeds look good. I just did an air pressure leak test and there are no leaks. Any ideas on this?

$1500 for an excellent condition Reflex is in the range. Most that I have seen are somewhat dented up. These bikes are very durable and I don't think there are any specific weak points. Some noise in the top ends seems common. I don't know if it is valves or cam chain. Earlier Honda street bikes were known for cam chain noise but it did not cause any problems.

HondaRS.....Can you add some detail on the statement that "with a few careful mods can be made a great deal better." What would these careful mods be?

Can someone tell me if there is a reserve setting for a 97 techno? It looks like pointing up towards the front to the bike is off and pointing down towards the back of the bike is off. Is sideways the resevce?

Do you have a close up of the shock and linkage on the SWM? It looks unique.

I think the play is due to a loose bolt but can not identify which one. I bought the bike in almost new condition and immediately serviced all bearings including the top and bottom of the shock. Everything looked in great condition but I still had a little play. I periodically try tightening the bolts with no effect. Does one bolt need to be supertight? Is there one that is easy to over look? Is there a procedure to identify exactly where the play is? With all of the linkage interconnecting, I have tried placing my fingers on each joint as a I move the suspension but it is still not clear.

Should the Sherco suspension have zero free play? All of my bearings look like new and all bolts are tight yet there is still a little play in the suspension at full extension. Not much but a little more than a well maintained '97 Gas Gas. Is that normal?

Is there a way to put a gas filter on a 2002 2.9? I have one of the little in-line types but there does not seem to be space.

Can someone tell me what a "spout bolt" is?

I have a 1997 techno and a service manual/ video for the Gas Gas of similar years. Did the Gas Gas use the same forks? They look the same. (before they started to make their own). The video shows that you force down the clear anodized piece around the seal to expose the seal for removal. Is this the removal procedure for the '97 techno? (I have never seen one like this.)

Pardon my inadequacies in the English language but can you tell me what "draught excluder foam" is? .....Thanks

Can you tell me the size of the door seal used to seal around the top of the air box? it looks to be about 1/2" square. Thanks!

After much frustration, I decided to look in the master cylinder to see if all was OK. There was a little dirt and the seals show some wear but it did not look too bad. I then decided to take the whole system off ..less the little fill cup and hose and bleed it on an outside bench. This was pretty easy because I had a spare fill cup and could mount (and manuever) each component to help get rid of bubbles. (After spilling much brake fluid, I was glad to be outside) Once it was bled, I capped the fill line connection at the master cylinder. Then....the moment of truth......the master cylinder CAN fed in from the left side so the whold thing can be put back without breaking any lines.

Are there any secrets to bleeding the rear brake on a Techo. The rear brake did not work so I pulled the rear caliper and disassembled. Everything looked OK except the sealing surfaces where the bleeder valve seats. I reconditioned them. After assembly, I have tried the "suck method"...vacuum at the bleeder valve and pump method...pump, open valve, close valve, repeat....both get some (not alot) fluid to flow but the brake is still not operative. I can see the pads move but there is no braking action. Any suggestions?????

Thanks...but does the converter have a mounting bracket or is it just "hung" in place with a tie wrap? The frame on this thing is a work of art.

I bought a '97 techno with the wiring removed and now want to put it back on. Where and how does the Ac to Dc converter mount? I don't see it on the assembly drawing. Also..was there some kind of insulation/ shielding on the wires that go to the blue capacitor? (mine has none) I thought of a plastic or rubber insulator over the whole thing but don't know if it has to radiate heat.

Thanks again. The socket in the bottom plug was stripped but I managed to get it out. I was finally able to download the parts list and see that there should be a "spring" inside the air filter. Do you know if this is a plastic part or something steel that could be made from a coat hanger? I can see that it could use something to hold it open.

That brings me back to the original question. Where do I get one of the Aluminium skid plates to start with? Thanks!