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Based on the SM video on the site, I think they have a LONG, LONG way to go before it gets compared to a CR250 The big bikes were going by in on the back straight like it was chained to a post I actually think the trials is probably the most reasonable competition application. Pretty cool none the less.

I've got a buddy who put the Hebo one on his Honda CR250. Very tidy setup. Light clutch pull and consistant engagement, no more adjusting the clutch after each moto. Depending on where you mount the slave cylinder, it is no more prone to damage than your existing cable system. Weight is not a big deal either, the thing is pretty simple and light. It is basically the master cylinder off a GG (early trials, all enduro) with a small slave cylinder mated to a short bit of cable that replaces your stock cable. Very simple installation and really no less reliable than any modern hydraulic system on newer bikes.

Dave has it right, but it is done on purpose by GasGas so the stand self retracts. All you need to do is remove the spring and the little metal bar (extends the spring) at the end. The metal bit will be at the top in stock form, replace it with the metal bit on the bottom and your stand will stay down. Yes, the clamps contact the frame at full lock...nothing to worry about.

I tried the silicone sealant thing....NEVER again. Bloody mess next time around, and a "bandaid" fix at best. I'm with Dabster, clean rim, new rim strip and silicone grease. Slime may be fine too.

Actually the standard curve is by far the softest (on the standard Pro, not Raga). All the other curves are more aggressive, with the Raga being the most extreme...and potentially dangerous, as it has NO rev limiter (or so I'm told, as I didn't test that little feature on my bike ) Bottom line is for an intermediate or lower lever rider, the '04 curve is probably best. Smoother and more fogiving than any of the others. For playing around, or for advanced level riders, the more aggressive curves might be better. Lots of fun for playing, but I always go back to the '04 curve for comps.

Don't beat yourselves up, it actually worked out pretty good for most I think. No one could have guessed the incredible number that logged on at the same time. Well done guys! It was lots of fun!

No worries, I'll take a few pics and email them to you James *you've got mail*

I was on the phone (Skype) with R2 during those early stages...mad rattle of keys and a few swear words, but he pulled it out. Big thanks to Andy, Kinell and R2...it was a great time!!

I second what HondaRS has said. I found my '02 Pro was lean on the pilot. I'm near sealevel and 15-25C temps.

Agreed. In a pinch, you can easily drill out pilots and mains too. I just keep a #65 starter around all the time, as I find every bike seems to benefit from it,particularly in our "less than tropical" climate

Good advise from Charlie. It's always a good check. Sure sounds like it's rich by the description. Clearly the GG Museum specs show a much leaner main. If there is any restriction in the exhaust, similar symptoms will occur though.

A richer pilot will help with starting. Try a #38. If it's cold starting that is your issue, then the larger starter jet is the answer. Mine will flash up in 1-2 kicks even in sub zero temps.

I run my '04 280 Pro in the 2nd position too. I also run a 38 pilot and a #65 starter jet. I adjust my fuel screw based on the day/conditions. Try dropping the needle and listen for "pinking" under load, if it "pinks" raise it one position and try again. Remember the needle effects approx 1/4 - 1/2 throttle. Below that is pilot. Don't get too caught up in plug colour, it's a poor indication of jetting, unless you do proper plug chops at WOT...then only effective for tuning main jet. Lots of things effect plug colour, not the least is fuel quality. Jetting by feel is far more productive in most cases.

Spokes, drop me your email address and I'll see if I can scan some. I don't have them myself, but can likely borrow a set to scan for you, if that would help.

I use ATF in my 2004 and it works perfect. For what it's worth, I've run ATF in all my bikes for years...including MXers (where the loads are MUCH greater). It's perfect for clutches as that's what its designed for. If you are concerned about slippage, use the "Type F" intended for older Ford type trannys. It is designed specifically to prevent slippage.

Rich, one more time...the pre-2003 model 200s and 125s used the new generation Pro motor, but the older generation chassis, plastic, fuel tank, airbox, air filter, etc. They were still known as "Pros" as they have the new engine. The standard TXT models had the older style motor.

Scroll down the page to "Transmissions" CLICK HERE

The 2002 200 Pros used the older style chassis, with a new Pro motor. 2003 and on all used the Pro style chassis, graphics and plastic.

Although I am not absolutely sure I'd suggest static sag should likely be in the range of 25-30% of your race sag. There is a good series of articles right here on TC CLICK HERE that give some background, but still don't answer your specific question. I know I personally tried setting up my bike to "spec" and found, as a novice anyways, that it was too stiff. Backed things off and things were much happier. Very different from MX or Enduro, where I typically like the stiffer side of the spectrum. On a separate note, is that your RC30 g4321?

Billy....you didn't cross over to "the dark side" did you Rest assured lads, Billy understands the outcome of mods very well

Welcome back OF

The only disadvantage is the back of the gloves are slightly less stretchy. You'll hardly notice your wearing them...other than your hands will be warm

I haven't used the xc-ting gloves in particular, but have had numerous other brands of neoprene gloves. All the ones I'v had are only have the neoprene on the backs. The palm of the glove is a synthetic leather material, so the feel is basically the same on the bars and controls, with perhaps a little extra stiffness due to the heavier backs (neoprene portion). These gloves are AWESOME. I even use them Ice racing on all but the coldest days. The big thing is they cut the wind and insulate even when wet, keeping your hands nice and toasty. I can't imagine having the neoprene on the palms though, as I like to have feel and this would be too insulated for my liking I'm sure. Are you sure these xc-ting ones are neoprene palmed? I'm currently using an old pair of AXO ones, but have used Hebo and Fox ones in the past. All are excellent. You can't really see them, but I'm wearing them in this picture. With the deflectors on the bars they're warm enough for comfort even in these conditions.

Get yourself a pair of "soft straps" luke. They're like a short piece of tiedown with loops at both ends. Loop them over your bars, then put the tiedown hook through the loops. The added benefit is not only does it make tapered bars easier to deal with, but also protects the bar from wear of the hook...particularly important with all these reports of bars breaking we keep hearing