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You didn't mention where your located Blocky. Yes, GasGas USA did do a very good video based largely on the newer bikes, but it is still applicable to older models in some instances, certainly the basics. Without a doubt, between the considerable experience of R2 (he's OLD you know ) and the folks around here, you will be able to find out everything you'd ever want, and more. Welcome to "the obsession"

Sign me up Alan! Sounds like a great idea to me and well worthy of $15.

Like twhy said, first make sure you have some freeplay in the lever adjustment. After that backbleeding is likely the best method, as has been mentioned. Use DOT4 brake fluid. Warped plates are not too likely, but possible. What is more likely and quite common is that the fibre plates have swelled. This will cause dragging and is exagerated by certain tranny oils. Fortunately it's an easy check and fix. CLICK HERE for data on the clutch and a diagram of how to measure it (bottom of the page). Several thicknesses of metal plates are available from your local dealer or importer to make up the necessary clearance.

Matt, top ends in these things last forever, at least in MX terms. The combination of low rpms, double rings, and small port sizes mean they past MUCH, MUCH longer than your previous MXer. Guys go for years on a top end. How frequently you change them is up to you and how much you ride. As for gearbox oil, there will be a dozen different answers to this one. Personally I like to run ATF and change it frequently. I'm overly anal on this stuff and change mine every 2 riders. ATF is cheap, works well with clutches and provides adequate gear protection, particularly when changed frequently. I'd rather have cheap, clean oil than dirty, expensive stuff myselt. You also don't need nearly as much oil in the fuel mix as with MX. Again, much less stress and more low rpm running/idling. I normally run 80:1 in a liquid cooled trials engine. Anything 60:1 - 80:1 should be fine with a good quality oil. Water temps are generally very well controlled on trials bikes. Most have a themostatically controlled fan that helps keep air moving across the radiator when moving slowly or idling. Overheating shouldn't be a problem. Hope that helps.

...just watch for the mushroom cloud on the horizon

Are you getting any "knock" when shutting the throttle from open?...or any "pinking"? If not your probably safe. All carb tuning is going to vary from bike to bike, place to place and rider to rider. Just worry about finding what works for you in your conditions. The advise you got on needle positions is a good example of how varying setups can be.

I've only ever heard the Spanish pronounciation (Waan). Didn't even know there was another....see how educational it is hanging out here!

Cubby, I read his articles in TBM (Thanks to R2 sending them ) ...and have read of his results in the World Enduros, Weston Beach and such. Impressive results indeed. You don't get that far being timid, that's for sure Is Juan Knight a relation? He was a former Factory GasGas Enduro guy, that recently retired, but I never really knew if they we actually related or not.

Cubby, from the descriptions I got, Knight and most of the Euro Enduro guys for that matter, were super smooth and exceptionally good at this game. I think some might have been caught off by the extremely aggressive nature of a Pro SX rider like Hughes though. That first pic on the RACER X site kind of tells the tale

Sure sounds like it's starving of fuel.

I'm sure that's the cheaper option.

I've read that Aaron was an absolute joy to watch ride the nasty stuff, probably just didn't have the speed or aggression for the faster bits. Apparently the course ate riders every lap. A big lead meant very little as it could all disappear on one obstacle. Apparently that's exactly what happened to Perret. Holeshoted his semi, then got stuck in the rock pile and failed to qualify.

Can't buy them in Canada Steve, I don't even thing Arai US actually brings them in either. Dabster, is the shape really that different? I've warn Arai and Shoei MX and street helmets for years and didn't notice that big of a difference...I do prefer the "plushness" of the Arai though. Perhaps the trials helmet is different shaped??

Wow! Am am impressed. Ryno's a pretty tough guy, but I really didn't think he'd thrive in that environment. Well done! Any idea where Aaron or Perret ended up finishing?

Stu, just have a look around the tire and you'll be able to tell if it's all the way up on the bead, or run your finger around. You'll feel a "dip" if it's not on. It will be pretty clear just by looking at it.

Helmet mounted DVD player. Heated seat and GPS navigation is extra

All you Scorpa owner: Don't dismay. It's just R2. He burned his tongue once on french onion soup and still hasn't gotten over it Nice writeup regardless.

ahh, but answer that question again r2..."if you won the lottery today, which would you choose?"

G, too high an oil level will only effect the last 1/3- 1/4 of the travel, effectively adding some bottoming resistance. By adjusting the oil height, what you are effectively doing is adjusting the volume of the air pocket. This air pocket acts as a spring once it is compressed. The more you compress it, the greater it's resistance to compression, so the stiffer it gets. However, because of the relatively large volume of air this effect is not noticable until the later part of the travel. Preloading the springs too much, or having a spring rate too stiff, will actually make the fork rebound faster. Generally speaking, the dampers are setup for the stock spring rate. As you preload the spring, or increase it's rate with a heavier one, the energy stored in the spring will be greater than stock and therefore generally rebound faster. You might try a really light oil, like 2.5wt. Aside from revalving the actual damper, this is really your only resort at this stage.

There's a bloody big shock

Yup!

Of course your correct on the "next size tap" thing Richard, I was just trying to simplify, but may have added to the confusion. Stu, each helicoil kit is for a specific thread and size. So there is a different drill, tap, coil and driver for each different thread. The reason for the tap is that the coil actual threads into the drilled out hole. This is why the tap is specially designed as it must match the coil being installed. Basically, the coil is a male thread with a female thread on the inside. It literally threaded into the hole you drilled and tapped. Confusing to describe, but simple in practise. As for removing them....I'm not sure. I think there is a special tool, but have never seen or used one myself. They are generally a one shot fix. The little coil is somewhat like a chinese finger trap, if you know what I mean...it goes in, but traps itself from coming out. If you try to turn it counterclockwise to remove it, it generally just binds itself in tighter against the outer radius of the hole. BB, if you are having one back out, a dab of green locktite or Locktite bearing mounting stuff will bond it in there, I'd think.

No problem Stu...here we go.... Basically what the kit contains is an appropriate sized drill bit, a tap, a "helicoil" and a driver to put it in. The drill bit and tap are pretty self explanitory. Basically you are drilling out the hole bit enough for the next size up tap. The helicoil itself is a stainless steel coil, that matches the thread perfectly. You tap the hole to the next larger size, then thread in the helicoil and it brings the thread back to the original size you desired. The driver is little more than a threaded bolt that the coil threads onto and then is threaded into the freshly tapped hole. There a simple setup and very strong. The kits are a bit expensive, but a worthy addition to any toolbox Hope this helps. I should have mentioned that the "helicoil" in the picture is not the one that goes with the bit and tap...I just showed a larger one for clarity.

Go Geoff!! Pretty heavy field there though. At least Everts isn't going to be there to steal the show...again

I resemble that remark