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I know between Harbour Freight and the Massey Ferguson outlet you can get just about anything for your Montesa Ringo, but we're speaking about "modern" technology here

I've worn Shoei and Arai MX and street helmets for years. They fit very similar. The Shoei tends to be a firmer fit, while the Arai more a plush fit. Head shapes are very similar (as this is usually an issue for me). If you take a Medium Shoei, the a Medium Arai should be good.

5 wt is a good starting place and standard. Tim, use a small piece of hose with a tape marker at the proper level and draw out the excess.

Good to have you back Ringo! Now, if I can only get all this coffee cleaned off my keyboard

As "tongue in cheek" as Charlie's comment was, I truely beleive it is a very real factor. I hear it time and again. It's too bad all the manufacturer's didn't make a "long ride" version as I think it is ideal for folks to "get their feet wet". Bikespace's question #1 is also an other big issue. I know that two years ago, I had access to a second bike. It enabled me to take folks out to try the sport. This was very successfull. This year, I have not had that second bike available and enthusiasm has dropped notably. It's exactly as Ishy said...give 'em a taste and fuel the desire. Unfortunately I'm not sure how you do this as every one having 2 or more bikes, as cool as it would be , is not likely to happen. Jury is still out on the "pay classes"

Carefull now gents.... Steve, how many cups have the Canucks won? ...how about the Leafs? ....I rest my case

Sounds like they took a page from Montesa's workbook from the past 5 yrs or so If it ain't broke....

I guess that's a step up from the Leafs...alas a short step, but a step non the less Someday my poor Habs will regain their former glory ...hey! It COULD happen! If the Red Sox can do it, anyone can! ...gotta love "the foil"

r2, you been talking to Bikespace

...GO Hansons!!

JonH, 130mm measured from the top, with fork fully compressed and spring removed.

Hey Fracey! What about your fellow Canuck over here?? ...a 6'1" one at that Don't be holding out on me now

While I agree the MTB stuff is nice, I think you will find it's not as heavy as the Hebo or other trials specific ones. The MTB ones tend to be light shells with no lining, which is not a bad thing if that's what you are looking for. You will need to layer under them for road work on a trials bike though. Have a close look and decide if it will be warm enough for you. As for your original question Marky G, I have the older style Hebo trials jacket (the GasGas one) and find it very good for warmth. When done up, there are no drafts and the liner is sufficient for most conditions. Heck I even wear mine ice racing in -20C temps, with only a light sweater under it. With the removable liner and removable sleeves it gives you a great range of uses. Moderately waterproof, although not entirely. I guess you'd say, "water resistant".

I heard a rumour he was spotted riding in SoCal...<GULP>... on a brand OTHER than Montesa!

Hey Lou! How's it going, eh?

Could very well be a CDI Ian. I had one that would start, but not rev past 1/4 throttle. Chased the same carb problems, only to find out it was the ignition. I'd tell you to check the petcock. fuel like and tank, but if the float bowl was full. it's not likely fuel delivery. I'd have the dealer swap CDIs from another unit on the floor and see what happens. He may not want to take a new CDI from parts out of the bag and break the seal (electronic bits). Far easier to swap from a known runner. It's only a 5 min job. They do normally start very well, once you get the jetting and starting procedure down. Mines a first kick 90% of the time, 2 kicks if being stubborn.

A simple inline filter is never a bad idea. As far as plug goes, NGK BPR5ES is the standard plug and works fine. 0.5-0.6mm gap

I'm with D.Sileo on this one. I always fit a larger starter jet to mine and often one size large pilot...can get cool up here in "the Great White North" Makes for much easier starting. A new plug can never hurt either, but I'm sure it's a lean starting issue he's having.

Have you recently put the bike in deep water? If so, this is the culprit and nothing to worry about. Just drain it and flush a couple of times with clean oil and check it after deep water excursions

Jon, the small screw towards the cylinder is the fuel screw. Clockwise makes the mixture leaner (less fuel), counterclockwise makes it richer (more fuel). This carb does not have an air screw, but rather the fuel screw, which effects the same range only in reverse (out on an air screw makes it leaner). The large screw you see, more to the center of the carb is the idle screw. This is only a stopper to hold the slide up to achieve proper idle speed. I'd go ahead and clean the exhaust anyways. Chances are that is where your issues are. Unless the previous owner messed with the jetting it should be close in that department, however may be dirty. You rarely need to replace jets, unless trying to change the mixture. A careful cleaning and blowing out with compressed air can do wonders. Your fuel and oil should be fine, as long as it's fresh. 70:1 should work fine. Not much need to go richer on these modern bikes in most cases. The "float" that R2 is referring to is the internal float height. When you remove the carb and float bowl, you will see how the fuel is metered into the bowl by these floats acting on a small needle valve. As the fuel is used up from the bowl, the floats drop with the level. As they drop the needle valve is opened and the bowl replenished, until the floats come up high enough to shut off the supply again. The height measurement r2 is referring to is the height where the needle valve closes off. You will see it as you lift and lower the floats in your hand. The height is varied by very gently bending the tab where the needle attached to the floats. Set this height so that the floats are level when the needle just closes. I think, if memory serves me, the measurement from the bottom of the carb casting (surface that mates with the bowl itself) is 16.5mm when set correctly, and the needle just closing. I hope that makes sense. HERE is some good reading that may help you make sense of all this.

Alan pretty much covered it....basics first. I usually like a slightly richer pilot setting than the spec R2 posted myself, but that's largely personal. Makes for easier starting up North here Also, don't get too caught up in looking at the spark plug. Contrary to popular belief, it's a very poor way to determine the running condition of the bike, as it's difficult to read correctly and there are far too many variables involved. Far better to go by feel. Closed to 1/8 throttle - air screw and pilot jet 1/8-1/4 throttle - air screw, pilot jet and throttle slide 1/4-1/2 throttle - slide and needle 1/2- full throttle - needle and main

Not too beat up on Rineholio (as I agree with most everything else you said), but I like Charlie do 95% of my riding outside of competitions. I love the fact that I can play for an hour or 2 very near my home, or even in my backyard or driveway. "Freeriding" (I hate that term, but it fits) on trials bikes is a blast with some good buddies. Follow the leader routines and pushing each other to try stuff that you normally would simply pass by in a competition is a whole lot of fun. The social aspect is also a huge draw.

Thanks for the advise MadMax, I'll definitely keep it in mind. Actually my comments don't come from GasGas in any way, in fact I wouldn't have a GasGas 4S right now even if it was available. I've actually not heard any negative comments from the GasGas or any other manufacturer's camps, as all will soon be in the same boat together, like it or not. My comments come more from my MX experience and continuing ties. I was a Honda guy for MANY years and still have tremendous respect for their R&D prowess. In fact, if I was buying a street bike or MX bike, they'd be absolute top of my list. I'm just concerned with experiences on the MX side with these "skirtless" pistons and extreme high performance head/valve designs. They are awesome engineering wonders, but everything comes at a cost. On the MX side there have been many who've "seen the light" and realised that these are "not your daddies XR" anymore. No longer do you go for years with little more than an occasional oil change. These are the F1 powerplants of the motorcycle industry. Michael's Ferrari couldn't survive long without serious maintenance, neither do these engines. And when they do fail, it's usually catastrophic....and VERY expensive. With regards to the trials engines, the loads and rpms will not likely present the serious issues that they do in MX, but believing they will be like the old TLs (running for years with nothing more oil changes from time to time) is a mistake I beleive. I sincerely hope I'm proven wrong. Again, if anyone can build a bulletproof 4S motor, it is Honda. ...guess it's time for my meds again

Scary...looks just like the MXers...with 20hr piston lifespan. I was really hoping it would have been less extreme, but maybe with lower revs than the MXers they stand some chance of outliving a fruit fly. If anyone can make it work, it will be Honda though. Very trick regardless.

Still not cheap unfortunately....come on over any time you wish though, taxes are high, but much lower than it appears you lot pay. Here's a few approx prices to give you some idea... 2005 280Pro $8100 1 litre regular unleaded fuel (self serve) .89/L High speed internet account $55. All prices in Canadian dollars.