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Rob, you can also preload the fork springs to stiffen things up too. Get yourself a short legth of CPVC tubing (the white stuff) and cut small spacers that you can fit on top of the springs. I'd start in small increments, maybe 1" and try it. If you like it, you can go for the heavier springs, if not your out nothing but a little pipe. The rear shock is easy. There are preload collars that you can turn down to preload the spring. Getting rear springs aftermarket is apparently difficult, so preload may be your only route on this one.

Hi Dave, can't help you much with UK pricing, but can tell you that the little 200 Pro is a superb little bike. It hauled my 200 lb but around and up anything I could do on my 280. It's actually surprisingly powerful, just doesn't have the grunt of the big bikes. It feels much lighter though I don't think it actually is that much lighter in actual weight. The Canadian National Intermediate class winner for 2004 was on a 200 Pro this year. His father is a top expert rider in Quebec and rode a 200 Pro as well, up till this year.

Ahhh...now I understand. Thought it kind of odd.

Might try a new plug cap and plug too..

copemech, I feel your pain. I just went through this process with my Pro. I'm curious, did you check to see if the vent on the right was clear? Seems odd that it would require two vents to be open.

The best packing to use is the factory replacement stuff, or the aftermarket stuff (like FMF). You can use household fibreglass insulation, but it tends to blow out much faster, as the fibre strands are shorter. When packing, wrap the packing firmly, but not too tightly, as it will be louder if you do. What I do it wrap the packing and use masking tape (brown paper tape, often used by painters) to secure it in place. This holds it together while you slip the canister back on. Sounds to me like you might have wrapped it too loosely and it migrated to one end of the silencer.

Sorry Sam, I've been away for the weekend. Yes, you have it correct. You take the solder, making sure it is VERY soft solder (not silver or such) and bend it into an "L" shape with the lower horzontal part of the "L" just long enough to reach the cylinder wall from the plug hole. Be sure you have it against the cylinder wall though, as the closest clearance will be there. Feed the second piece in the same way only in the opposite direction. So you will have a piece touching the cylinder on both the left and right side while sitting on the bike. Now give the kickstarter a turn. Remove the solder and use a micrometer or good vernier caliper to measure the clearance you have. This is referred to as "squish" (from the squish band). This measurement is important as it is one of the determining factors or the flow of gasses within the combustion chamber (combined with squish angle...but that's yet another lesson ) On a big bore like a 321 I would suggest you don't go any thinner than perhaps 1.4 mm. Hope that helps.

Sam, you can take a soft peice of solder and bend it to a 90 degree bend or so. The key is to have it touch the cylinder wall above the wrist pin. Ideally you use two peices at each end of the wrist pin. Just give the motor a quick kick over with the solder bits in there and carefully remove them back out the plug hole. The solder will crush to the clearance available. You can now measure reasonably accurately what your squish clearance is and calculate your gasket from there. I always hated the putty solution, like Charlie mentioned, because it is so easy to deform the putty and get a bad reading...plus it requires removing the head each time....I'm much too lazy

Sounds like your in the wrong chat room Matt Think your looking for "dial a date"

11/42 is stock gearing. 10/42 is better for "less than expert" riders in most cases though. I personally liked the 10/42 combo myself.

Sounds like a pilot jet blockage or an air leak. Most likely the pilot jet though. Take it out, clean it well and blow out with compressed air. Then try it again.

Ignore the indicator window, it's only good to tell you if it's empty. I find 450ml is fine for a normal oil change. If you were doing a tear down and complete cleaning 550ml might work fine, but I find it blows off under normal oil change conditions.

1. The number of times you need to clean the air filter is dependant on your riding area and conditions. Basically inspect it after each ride and remove and clean if there is any sign of dirt buildup or water. 2. Bike doesn't necessarily need to be idling, but I wouldn't suggest doing high rpm power shifts. Trials transmissions are quite different from MX ones, that are designed for "under power" shifts. As your nit likely drag racing your bike, I wouldn't worry about it too much...take your time and make the shift. 3. It is recommended that you use a Dextron III automatic transmission fluid (AFT) in the gearbox. This has been found to be most compatible with the clutch plates. Some people have had success with other fluids, but ATF is cheap and works, so why take the chance. Change it frequently. The more the better. As I said, ATF is cheap, so it's not a big financial burden and is MUCH better on ANY motor to change it alot. I do mine every other ride. 4. Again, swingarm bearings and suspension linkage bearings are dependant on you and your riding areas/conditions. I'm assuming the bike is used? If so, take it apart now and inspect. If you ride in alot of wet conditions, I'd suggest you reinspect it after a month. This will give you a better idea of the intervals you will need. Again, you can't do it too much regardless...it's only labour Hope that helps.

Nigel, the system can be reprogrammed with any one of 4 predetermined ignition curves. You cannot actually build your own curve, but the 4 options hit a pretty broad range, from very mellow to extreme. It is a very nice option for sure, and still "idiot proof" with the 4 presets, meaning that the user can't mess it up with "creative curve designs" of their own

A real shame...or should I say "sham".

I commonly use dry graphite on my throttle tube (between tube and bar). Nice and smooth, and doesn't attract dirt. I normally leave the internal dry or a very light lube like the TriFlo Alan mentioned (it's commonly available at bicycle shops) but in very small quantity.

Try going one richer on the pilot jet (slow jet). I'm pretty sure the stock one is a #35. Try a #36 or #38. This will also have the effect of slightly softening the power right off the bottom. As for the timing, you need to remove the pickup and elongate the screw holes to move it. You can only get a couple of degrees, but ever little bit helps. The other option is to install the thicker base gaskets that are available from GasGas. This will lower compression and soften things too. I've just recently tried a Keihin carb on my 280. It seems slightly softer on the bottom, but revs out MUCH farther...way farther than I need for sure. I was disappointed in it at first, but after a little tweaking on the jetting it seems to be getting better and I'm reasonably happy with it at this stage, although I'm not sure I'd recommended on a "cost vs return" basis.

Did you add the reservoir yourself? ...and why? Not trying to be cheeky here, seriously curious as the the benifit you've seen.

Rob, the clutch design on your '01 is totally different than the Pro clutches. In your case, I'd look at the hydraulics first for a dragging problem. Try bleeding the hydraulics with new fluid and see if that helps.

Glad to hear you got it sorted Wes.

I too have recently had problems with blurred shots. I've been using the same cheap digital camera for a couple of years and have never had problems until recently. Now it seems most shots are blurred just like Nick's. Is it possible that the AF is dying? At first I though maybe something on the lens, but cleaned it and same results. Great tips guys!

Personally not a big fan of coloured wheels, but they don't look aweful...would get old fast though. Oh, here's a pic for those who haven't seen them

Personally not a big fan of coloured wheels, but they don't look aweful...would get old fast though.

You may very well have something there FireCapt. You clearly have a good understanding of the clutch system. Everything wears out eventually,so why not the spring I guess. I have heard of the swelling plate issues before. Not being a spring specialist, I would think that as a pressure plate type spring like this fatiques and gets "flatter" that the action would actually get softer as the leverage on the flatter surface would be greater? That being a non-linear rate, but a falling rate, rather than rising. That and the nature of the metal fatiguing would naturally make it softer I would think...but again, I'm no metalurgist I'd be very interested to hear your final findings. Please let us know. Out of curiousity...and because I know it will be one of the first questions your "guru" will ask....what oil are you running in the tranny?