jtt

Breath deep and try again tomorrow

Actually Alan, that made perfect sense...I must be tired Now all your planning is making more sense. Basically you almost need to scale the bike down to the wheel size. So if the steering head geometry is the same as the bigger bike, the smaller front wheel will effectively give less "trail" as well? Do you think you'll need a longer fork to offset the raised rear (as result of the shortened swingarm)? This might help with the skidplate clearance, but will also raise his overall height as well, which may or may not be a good thing...just thinking out loud. I don't know a whole lot about this subject, but do find it interesting. I'd like to hear more as the project progresses.

So Alan, what exactly are you trying to accomplish with these mods? Is there something that he doesn't like about the bike? ...or is this just pure experimentation on an unwitting guinea pig

What are you cutting Alan? A trials tire?

HRC, I'm sure the manufacturers will have no problem keeping up with demand, although the smart ones might artificially produce a shortage to keep demand...and prices high. Harley Davidson has been very sucessfull with this tact.

Sounds like you've thought it out pretty well Alan. Remember shortening the swingarm will also effectively place more weight on the rear wheel too. Don't forget about sag settings too, as these can also play a significant roll in overall handling. Although not trials specific, HERE is a website of a guy that understands motorcycle geometry better than most.

One in every crowd

I agree with Mac...I'm nearly 200 lbs and had no problem doing anything I could do on my 280 on the little 200. It also feels noticably lighter than the 250/280/300 Pros. The motor doesn't have quite the grunt on the bottom of the big bikes, but once you adjust, it's really quite nice, and very forgiving.

I'm with sirdabsalot on this one. I've seen lots of fork nicks fixed with a good flat stone. Just take some fine emery or better yet a small flat stone and carefully smooth the surface where the dent is. This will remove the sharp bits that will damage the seal. If the dent is small enough, the seal will maintain it's seal pretty well and not leak. WB has the right idea about fixing things "the right way", but in this case the stone may be a passable fix, as long as the dent is not too large.

I agree it's a little confusing. The first generation Pros used 350cc of oil, then the later ones used 450cc, and to add to that the '04 apparently calls for more again. I don't think the sight glass is a very good indicator though regardless. It will tell you there is "some" in there, but not to correct level. My Enduro bike shows oil in the sight glass when it's down 1/3, so I've never really trusted them. As the clutch cover did change in '03 that might be why they called for more oil than the '02 models, but as far as I know there are no significant changes to the cases or covers on the '04 models, which would lead me to stick with the 450cc level. I too tried 500cc, but found that it spit out of the vent line too. I've gone back to 450cc and seems to be fine. Too much oil in a 2 stroke is not a problem in most cases anyways, as it just vents out anyways....a little free chain lube

HRC, your wisdom is beyond your years my young freind

Ah Dave, I'd love to make that pilgrimage....however it's not in the cards (used up most of my vacation time in Disney). I am actually considering buying a twinshock as a second ride, so I can take out guys to try the sport, and maybe learn something in the mix

Thanks guys! Clarkp that was the one I was thinking of...in fact the one you mentioned HRC is the same article, reprinted

A while back I saw a website with a great step by step design for crating a trials bike for transport, but of course, now that I am looking for it, I can't find it. Has anyone seen something like this or have any suggestions, or plans laying around? This would have to be a "made from scratch" crate.

Don't know if it's fake or not, but can't see why it wouldn't be alot easier on a 160lb trials bike than a 220lb MXer. Same technique would apply only the rotation should be easier. Stupid Human Tricks

How can you say that when the guy won yesterday? I do think that he might be out of the running for the championship though. Figure it's down to Fugi and Lampkin now.

I personally run 80:1 with a good sythetic oil.

Actually that is nothing but a packing material to protect from corrosion and offers very little lubrication and attracts dirt like a magnet. The first thing you should always do with a new chain is wash all that sludge off and lube it with a proper lube.

I used to be able to buy it at Home Depot here, but they stopped stocking it. It is available at other building supply places here though. Might be worth a look. Also works great on stain on riding gear...pour some right in the wash...smells good, so the wife doesn't get cranky and works pretty darn good on stains too

Shame Nigel, as it really is great stuff. HERE is a link to the stuff I've been using for the couple of years. Excellent product! Cheap, very effective and clean. I know it might not be convenient for those in the UK, but for those in N America it's worth a look. Also lots of excellent tech imformation on the same site regarding chains and chain maintenance. Charlie, I agree with Nigel on the link thing...I remove mine fairly regular, or at least used to before changing lubes, and have never had a link failure.

You read it right Sendero. I call it a standard General Motors tuneup

I'm sure it will be a short skirt piston, as everything pretty much is today. Heck, even my company Buick 3.1 V6 is a short skirt....and those pistons lasted almost a full 60,000kms (37,000 miles) before needing to be replaced

Short of soaking it, you could also try the imfamous WD40 and a stiff brush. WD will cut chain lube like nothing. Best done off the bike either way, as it's a dirty job. After a good cleaning, be sure to dry it well and relube with some variety of chain lube. I've found that most people use WAY too much lube when doing their chains. You need to lube the area where the pin goes into the link. A squirt of one side, then the other. Give the wheel a good spin and wipe off the excess with a rag. Wiping the excess will not only make cleaning the next time much easier, but will protect your chain from picking up as much dirt (and acting as grinding compound) Keep a nice stiff brush in your washup kit and scrub that chain and sprocket well with soapy water each time you wash the bike, and relube after it's clean.

I agree, Great Job guys! The 10 question thing was a hoot!

When you say "you stripped them", did you take them all the way down? It sounds like something internal may be off. It is possible for debris to get jammed in one of the orifices and greatly effect damping. I'd take it all the way down, closely inspect everything and carefully blow out all the orifices. Also take note of the bushings to see if there is any unusual wear or wear patterns.