jtt

Taff, while I am not a huge fan of WD40 for many things, my only question is "what could you put in a cup of water that would "displace" it??" Besides maybe a rock

Just over $100 Cnd up here, so pricing is about the same. I think the weak US dollar vs the strong Euro is killing you....we here in Canada have just excepted a weak currency as the norm, so expect nothing more I'd be a little concerned about running it full time that you might burnout the fan motor which is more expensive again! Perhaps in the interim you could wire a manual switch? But you'd have to be conscious of it all the time.

Sounds like you did everything right Rick. The best way to flush the crank is with kerosine or gasoline in quantity, but this usually requires removing the engine and is still no guarantee that the bearing were not damaged. It's someone luck of the draw in the case of the bearings...might be fine, might go tomorrow, hard to tell. The single biggest mistake I see people make is to park the bike after drowning and try to get it going "tomorrow"...or a week or month later. This spells sure death for the crank bearings. Seen it far too many times.

Sadly I can't comment based on experience because mine has yet to arrive, but it might be worth trying a richer pilot. I've found on my previous 280s that a richer pilot is better for me. I also run one richer on the starter jet (choke) and it really helps cold starts. Other than that, have a look for possible air leaks in places like the intake manifold area, as this will also make them run lean and hot. Might even be worth taking off the flywheel and looking for visual problems with the crank seal. I've seen some (not on Pros, on Hondas in fact) that were installed cocked sideways from the factory and caused air leaks through the seal.

There are also various different alloys of Titanium to consider too. I'm no metalurgist either, but don't think under normal conditions that us "mortals" live in that it would ever be an issue. As for the "factory" boys, that's entirely different. I know they don't like to reuse a Ti fastener even once (I even got to dispose of a small selection of them one time ). But then again, they don't like to reuse steel ones either. It's simply not worth the risk that it was over stretched or fatigued during the last use.

Well said Stu! Best of luck from the "other side" of the Atlantic. Wish I could be there.

So the bike came with a Michelin right? Have you tried ordering the OEM replacement from the bike manufacturer? I know GasGas list the tires as a OEM part number....might be worth a try, if you haven't already.

My guess would be the former. That plus the strong possibility of getting injured and throwing away a Championship. Not saying it's the "right" thing to do, but I can understand the logic.

Not sure about trials bikes, but it's a pretty standard type clause for most motorcycle manufacturers. In fact, we should consider ourselves as fortunate to be offered ANY type of warrantee. MXers don't come with any, as they are "intended for competition use".

Well done!

You'd probably be surprised how much trial and error is actually involved...just that we, the public never get to see it in Honda's case.

Although I don't get to see events live, or even regularly, from the few I've seen I have to agree with Matt.

Almost looks like a SOHC from the left.

I haven't toyed with a 250 Pro, but I ran one size richer pilot in my '03 280. I also always run one size richer on the starter jet (choke circuit), as it really helps when it gets cooler out. There is definitely a bit of a knack to starting though, but this is true of must bikes.

Cutting the sole won't gain you much. It's in the shank that the MX boots are stiffened. I won't ride without them on my Enduro/MX bike, but can't ride anything on the Trials bike with them...cement blocks is a good description. They will probably soften up a little as they break in, but will never be as flexable as a trials boot

That was my point, I was agreeing with you, not disputing ...just because you ride a Scorpa, doesn't mean you can't get it right once in a while

I agree, there appears to be almost nothing unchanged. That said, I can't see Honda going away from the proven linkage systems. If they were to do anything different in that department it would be in the line of new "Unit ProLink" system.

I think you will see over history, Honda rarely risks championship points on one of these "introductions", although it is a bit surprising that they are actually entering it in a WCT, not a Japanese National or something. They must be pretty confident...not that they ever aren't My only hope is it's not obnoxious sounding like the 4S MXers.

Will be entertaining...although expensive

You need the software from GasGas to do it yourself, or your dealer may provide the service (perhaps for a fee to offset the cost of the software). Basically you plug the bike into the laptop and make the changes. You have 4 preset ignition curves to choose from: 1) stock 2004 2) stock 2002 "Pro" 3) old style stock curve, like Edition models, or older JTR, JTX models 4) Raga Indoor curve. Very fast, aggressive curve, with absolutely no rev limiter built in....so be forwarned, major damage could result in a fall on the throttle side Basically you'll see a difference in how the power is delivered....from soft to hard and a few in the middle I haven't had the opportunity to play with it myself yet, but will in the near future I hope.

Yup, in fact is the recommended fluid. I ran synthetic ATF in my 2002 without any problems, although this latest bulletin suggests not to. Here's a clip from that bulletin (Rising Sun Imports): "Transmission oil: Never use synthetic oil in the transmission~clutch. The synthetic oils are

Paul, I use Type F ATF myself, any brand will do really, as I change it so frequently that it's not a real problem. Apparently you can also run Dextron 3 stuff as well without any problems. As far as suspension goes, it's a pretty personal thing, but the stock settings are usually somewhere in the middle of the range and work well as a starting point. If you look in the "tech articles" section of this forum, there is an article on suspension setup I beleive which might give you some more insight HERE

No surprises really...not bad for the little 4S though

I think you'll find the newer bikes come with the flap under the gas tank. The front one is not a bad idea though, if you ride in alot of mud.