jtt

I personally run the 600 2T in mine at 80:1. I don't think the 800 is warranted, as it is designed for use in high rpm motors under high loads and heat...not exactly our conditions. In fact, I've even considered trying Motul's "scooter" oil, perhaps more applicable to the application...lower rpms, lower temps, etc <shrug> Change the gear oil after the first ride, as it allows the "wear in" debris to be flushed out. After that, to each his own, but I beleive in changing mine very frequently. I run only ATF in my bikes, but change it after every other ride. Oil stays clean, any little filings, etc are flushed out, and all clutch debris (from normal running) gets removed...the BEST oil is clean oil

Congrats bigfoot! I still haven't gotten my '04 yet, but hopefully in the next couple of weeks. From past experience with Pros, these are the items I've personally found that should be done/checked at PDI. - check all bolts...better to find a loose one before loosing it on a ride - check and grease all linkage pivots, swingarm bearing, and steering head bearings, as well as wheel bearings. - oil air filter...I don't know what they put on it from the factory, but doesn't seem very effective. - check spoke tension frequently during first month or so, then tend to loosen as they seat - also keep a close eye on sprocket and disk bolts - tires will have about 30psi in them from the factory, so check them - change gearbox oil after first ride and frequently from then on. - Seal the ignition cover with good RTV - grease all electrical connections with dielectric grease - I always put clear vinyl (the clear number plate backings used by MXers) on all wear areas, particularly on the silencer. A layer on the inner side will protect from tire rub, on the outside from boot rubbing, and...rocks All I can think of for now. Enjoy!

OK, where and when

You'll soon see that Ringo doesn't speak any other languages

I'm guessing a Sherco. Yeah, that "auto-big-bore" setup is pretty effective...now if we could only find a way to grow that piston to match That said, I've seen MXers with carbs that look just like that...with filter and airboot in place correctly. Once the filter gets caked with dust, the "filtering" element is gone and the dirt goes straight through. Surprisingly the bore takes little of the abuse from this...but the cranks are junked.

Very impressive indeed! So you gonna document the crank replacement procedure for the "tech" section

Rough weekend Ian. I too had a little trouble this weekend when riding my enduro bike. Tried to cross an unknown "puddle" that turned out to be a pond! Totally drowned it...I mean filled crankcases, carb, pipe...everything. Thank God for 2 strokes! A few minutes of draining (and wringing airfilter) and a fresh plug and I was back on the trail.

...and yes, gap DOES matter.

Come on now R2, don't hold back, what do you really think!

As seemingly useless as modern rear fenders are, I can assure you that they ARE better than nothing. Last fall I had to ride out of my riding area without a rear fender (not an uncommon sight for me )...the mud and water was spraying clean over my head!! I'd ridden for over an hour completely dry and was soaked to the skin in a 3 min ride back over the same terrain I came in on. <in best Yorkshire accent> ...when I was a lad....

Not sure. Bob Abell is around here time to time and could likely tell you, but I suspect he took it up later in life, might be wrong. My point is, true top Pros have remarkable bike handling skills, and it takes them a remarkably short time to adapt to a new sport. Put a guy like Stefan Everts on a trials bike (assuming he doesn't already ride one) and I'll bet within weeks he's riding at a very high level. Same would go for Dougie Lampkin on an MX bike, or even RR. I know many of the top MXers and Roadracers in N America now ride trials bikes for cross training. They might not have started on them, but take full advantage of the skills trials teaches. I know, myself as an exMXer and exRR, that I've found trials has improved my "big bike" riding considerable. The effect was noticable almost immediately. Only wish I had discovered it 25yrs ago

Ah, now it makes more sense. I know the 2003 box was better than the '02 one. I agree with jrsunt though, if carefully sealed, there is really little place for water to get in, except when in water over the seat...then nothing short of a scuba tank will help

I'm assuming your referring to the transmission, not the crankcase? If it is truely in the crankcase, then it's likely a bad head gasket..or oring in this case. If indeed it is the transmission, then it's likely as BS said, a water pump issue.

Don't tell Jordan Szokes that He's a Canadian Superbike roadracing champion and a top contended in the Canadian trials events (Expert), when he can attend. I think you'd be surprised at most Pro motorcycle racers. In my experience most of those guys can ride nearly anything with wheels. Now, not at a Pro level mind, but certainly much better than most of us.

Good to have you back Ringo! ...and nice pics!

Well done Nigel!

I had some success recently using a syringe by not only pushing fluid through, but alternatively sucking it out. Seemed this released some bubbles that just didn't seem to want to simply go one way. Be very carefull though as it doesn't take much to suck the reservoir dry and draw in more air than ever.

Just hold it in your left hand

A little squirt of WD40 or similar after each wash, or ride goes a long way

That'd be a "berm" James

Just make sure the rim lock is all the way in place, then tighten it down. I usually start the final side install from the rim lock and work my way around, that way I know it's in right.

HERE Vinnie.

Why would that be I wonder? I always use the curved end of my Michelin style (can't find the real ones anymore ). Another trick I use is to round the tube up with air before prying the final side of the tire on (without the valve core in). This forms the tube up into the tire and well clear of the tire levers.

HERE is a link to a website with tire changing information. It's streetbike based, but the principals are the same. The pictures may help some, but Charlie and Alan have pretty much covered it. Be patient, take small bites (don't be greedy) and make sure the opposite side of the tire are in the hollow of the rim...the rest will all fall into place. It shouldn't take great force on the levers, if your doing it right. In fact a very respected journalist (Kevin Cameron) once said that a tire lever should be no longer than your hand...if you need more, your doing it wrong ps. also what I tell the wife

Mines March 1st.... Blows that theory. Ouch!