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Sounds like it sheared the flywheel key. ...the loft insulation wouldn't help

Oops....sorry, superfly is right. I was half asleet and thinking MX again sorry.

Standard settings are usually 1.5 turns from full in. Charlie's technique in easy and usually very effective, I'd suggest you try it. I usually go about 1/4-1/2 turn richer (screw out) than the final setting myself, but that's a personal preferance.

Check with R2w (regular 'round here), he's had one for a while and it's for sale now...check HERE Good solid bike....r2's alright too

Carb settings will depend on altitude, temperatures, riding condition and rider. Best to start with the stock setting and tune from there to best suit your riding area and riding style. Don't be afraid to experiment. Just keep good notes of all the settings and the changes. You can always go back if you need to. Buy yourself a couple of pilot jets (maybe two larger and two smaller than stock) and the same with the main....then simply trial and error. It's a little time consuming, but worth it's weight in educational value As a very general rule, going leaner will make it sharper, and richer softer.

I've used ATF in all my bikes for many years now (2 strokes) and never had any problems. I've even taken the transmission down for close inspection for wear...nothing. GasGas actually recommends ATF in the Pros. The lubrication properties of ATF is very well suited to transmissions and clutches, particularly the Type F variety with friction modifiers that can help with some bikes clutches that are adversely effected by some of the more slippery ATFs (clutch slippage). If your looking for guarantees that it will not negatively effect your clutch plates?...best stick to manufacturer's recommendation specifically. I personally feel much better using ATF in mine, as it's cheap and I can change it frequently. I change mine every second ride. Clean fluid is as important (more IMO) as high $ oils, particularly to clutches. Moral of the story is to change fluid regularly, no matter what you choose to use.

I keep seeing pics of TC stickers, but haven't seen Andy's advertisement selling them How would one go about acquiring one of these famous stickers?

Has anyone got a picture of this bike rack? I ask because I am in the market for a "bumper" type rack, but all the ones over here require a Class III hitch (2" square reciever), but these are not available for most cars, only heavier trucks and such...if I had a truck I wouldn't need a rack, but that's another story Interested in seeing what you folks in the UK and other places use.

That doesn't slow them down anywhere else. Engine "tagging" can be done in numerous ways to prevent tampering. Even a simple dab of specific coloured paint on a head bolt would cover that.

It's working for me fz. I do agree...I too hate flash sites

I have no personal experience with Ron, but he seems well respected in the NE and surely has considerable experience. I personally NEVER take jetting specs on blind faith. I've always found what works for one person in one circumstance, often is nowhere near perfect for another.

I'm sure Ron Commo knows what he's talking about...just seems odd.

The screw towards the rear will be the air screw. The larger one should be the idle. It is interesting that they come rich, it would seem that most (not necessarily Beta) come lean

Me thinks I'd like the Scott Killer pics guys!

Ashley, it's nothing to worry about. It has to do with the design of the clutch. Basically when the lever is out, the clutch "springs" are relaxed. Well, the Pro's clutch "springs" are very different than most. There are numerous little actuator fingers that lever against a pressure plate to disengage the clutch. With the lever out, these simple rattle about, as there is no pressure on them. You can see the little fingers in this picture. The clutch slave pushes on the tips of the fingers (the yellow dot area) and prys the clutch open. When the slave is not pushing on these fingers they are relaxed and loose and will make the rattling noise I think your hearing. Picture courtesy of Rising Sun Imports (US GasGas Parts Distributor...and expert on all things GasGas)

Take care not to get it too tight though, as this will effect steering, obviously. Putting the bike on a stand with wheel suspended will allow you to feel if it's too tight.

I voted for Ryon, partly patriotic I guess, but I also feel he has momentum in his favour after winning the Indoor. I think this may just be his year Then again, betting against Geoff is like betting against Dougie..never a safe bet. Plus, anything on the rumours of a "past Champ" might be coming out of retirement??

Kind of flashes back to the old ElCaminos...only with 4 doors. Hummers are neat, but utterly useless. Where'd you put a bike in that??

At 400cc, the window will be covered...also at 350cc Hey, it could be worse for filling. I had a Sherco and you had to lay it on it's side to fill through the same tiny hole

Just drain it and refill with fresh stuff. Volume is all that matters. The window is nothing more than a rough guide.

That sounds like it might be a great opportunity Alan! ....you could be.....A STAR

Hey Steve, we used to run an "Old Fat Guy" MX race out here for a couple of years. The concept was you start the moto and each lap you must stop and eat a hotdog, then continue on. By about the 5-6th lap, things start to get pretty rough, with more than a few hotdogs "re-entering" the world Perhaps a twist on this....a section clean demands a full dog be consumed, and a large bite for each point otherwise. One lap of 10-12 sections with a maybe 30 minute time limit should even the odds

Is this a "clunk" or a "rattle" sound, kind of like a bag of marbles?

DMX, running 110 won't hurt anything, as long as it's jetted correctly. The jetting may or may not be different with the 110 than the pump gas. the jetting has nothing to do with octane, but more to do with the chemistry of the individual fuel and it's specific gravity. Does your bike need 110? Probably not. Mixing it with pump fuel will cut costs, if you want to. The advantage of the "race fuel" is it's consistancy from batch to batch. If your not jetting your bike sharp, you probably won't ever notice a difference, other than smell There's ALOT more to race fuel than octane. It's pretty complex stuff, but bottom line, is with the right fuel and sharp jetting, the difference is noticable.

I've not used one yet, but have seen them up close. Looks like a nice setup. Simple and clean. Would sure beat carrying fuel bottles on your back