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Nice digs gasgas! Looks like fun. As for the oil thing, I've personally found full synthetics to burn a little cleaner than dino oils. I agree that most are overkill for our applications though, as almost all top oils are designed specifically for high reving, high output motors, like MX and Roadracing powerplants. That said, I've tried lots of different oils in the past and keep coming back to Motul...it just seems to work. Clean, good protection...what more can I ask for? Are you sure those deposits on your head is from oil and not fuel? I know the pump sludge they sell over here runs very dirty, leaving lots of deposits.

Typically carbon reeds are used in application where your looking for improvements in high rpm power. There characteristics tend to work well at high rpms, but not necessarily and often the opposite effect at lower rpms.

Go by any MX shop, they'll have it. Used for numberplate backing and marketed by several manufacturers.

Happy New Year!

...r2 as geisha

You can also snug them up with an extra pair of insoles...plus add extra comfort at the same time

These bikes are so lightly stressed I'm sure you could run lawnmower oil in them and have no problems. That said, I use Motul 800 2T. I've used lots of different oils over the years in my MX and enduro bikes and always end up back with Motul. Bean oil does smell nice though ...then again, so does good race fuel

Must say I haven't come across this problem. I'd try the mastercylinder seals.

I'd bring along a richer pilot jet or two Alan. Assuming the carb is reasonably clean, having the screw all the way in indicates it's lean, which is also a feature of cold temps (denser air).

admacp, are you saying the clutch drags, then if you shut the bike down and let it sit it comes back? I'm thinking it's something with the slave seals or the master cylinder seals. Did you put a touch of silicone grease on the new orings when you replaced them on the slave? As you may already know, it's also critical to be surgically clean during the replacement of these seals. Any contamination will cause these orings to fail prematurely. Also when bleeding the line, I've found it useful to use the syringe method that cnd280 combined with the traditional bleed through the slave. I've even used the syringe to draw fluid back through the slave. This back and forth motion will often break loose stubborn air bubbles.

I'd suggest trying Perce's trick, that way you could have 5, 10 and 15mm to experiment with. Then decide for yourself what feels best before committing to a tidy version.

Like Charlie said, check that bolt and sealing washer. Probably got a bit of dirt or a filing under the washer and causing the leak.

uhoh7, Charlie pretty much covered the setup thing. I'd ditch the stock switchgear and get yourself a little two wire momentary kill switch (Honda type, or Yamaha type are popular and easy to come by) and mount it on the bars between the bar clamps. The reason for this position is it's easier to access when the bar is buried in the mud and most importantly much harder to hit with your leg in advertantly, stalling the motor at a very inappropriate time. Also when you do this you can gut out all the unnecessary wiring, leaving a nice tidy, simple wiring loom. I'd grease the bearings soon as you get a chance. Some come well greased, others dry. I also find it helpful to install one large starter jet (chock circuit) as it really helps in cold temps and doesn't hurt anything in the heat. #60 is stock, I usually run #65, or you can drill it out slightly as it's not a critical metering jet. Check spoke tension regularly for the first while, just as you would with any other bike. Do your grips a favour and get yourself some bar ends. Lewisport will have what you need. They're usually aluminum and protect the end of the bars and grips when you drop the bike...also helps from pinning throttle when dropped on the left side. They are a tidy look and keep from tearing up grips so often. Think that about covers it...enjoy! Your gonna have a blast on it

uhoh7, Awesome pics! Damn that's some fine terrain. The 300 is going to be perfect. As r2 said, keep fresh, clean ATF in the tranny and remember that this isn't an enduro, so powershifting is not on the menu. It sounds like your pretty experienced and presumably have some mechanical aptitude, so you won't have any trouble with your Pro. Once you get some of those trials techniques down you'll find you'll be pushing that 250F a lot less

My understanding of the basic idea was to emulate a smaller bore carb. Without getting into specifics of air flow and such a smaller bore generally produces better throttle response and torque, whereas a larger bore generally makes better top end. Trouble is I don't think you can emulate a smaller bore from the upstream side alone.

So Steve, if I am understanding you correctly you are saying that they package "the exact" same basestock and additive package in all brands labels at this facility? How many brand names would they produce at this facility?

Might be worth an experiment, although from reliable sources in the MX world the Power Now product is 95% marketings and 4.5% myth. I'd think if you were to really make a significant improvement in airflow at low throttle openings you would need to do it at both ends of the carb body. Change the volume of the portion downstream of the slide and you might have something...upstream (as in PowerNow theory) I'm doubtful of.

I'm not that familiar with this particular carb, but a 50 pilot sounds very rich to me. If the mixture screw is having no effect, it is most likely very rich. I'd try a couple of sizes down on the pilot. Never mind the needle or the main, those don't come into significant play until the throttle is opened more. And yes, as a general rule if the mixture screw is closest to the cylinder it is most likely a fuel metering screw. Might want to have a look and make sure the tip of this metering screw is not damaged or broken too.

All that said, the 300 is much mellower than the 280. The 300 still makes a good clubman bike with it's big torque and softer "hit". Alot depends on the conditions you ride I suppose. I try my best to avoid mud. In the dry the 300 torque is sweet and very controllable. Even in muddy conditions I find the 300 easier to control than the 280. I'm sure you'll like the 250 motomax, but still lust for the 300 from time to time

Hey Max I've also tried all three displacements back to back and agree that the 250 is more forgiving, particularly in slippery conditions for me. If you remember the guy that came to RI with me this summer, a very good expert level rider. He always tells me that the 250 is the best Pro. Even at his level he says the power of the 280 and 300 make it too easy to break traction at the rear tire if not very careful, but the 250 is just soft enough on the bottom to minimize this That said, I still LOVE the grunt of the 300 and won't be giving it up just yet myself I don't get to do many events anyways, so 95% of my riding is playing and the 300 is just SOOO much fun.

I agree with gasgas, check your pilot and float needle. Sounds very rich to me. Changing mix ratios will not make a big enough difference in your air/fuel mixture to be effective. Best to stick with the fuel/oil ratios you've always run and work around the carb jetting.

I noticed that Geoff had a trials front on too...kind of thought that might be a mistake. I've done some experimenting with trials tires on my Enduro too and a front knobbie is still the way to go IMO. I bet trials rears will start showing up in other places too. Saw that Jimmy Lewis used one in the recent "Last Man Standing" race. I'm thinking the freestyle guys, particularly the "pole jump" guys would see a real benefit.

Interesting to see both Aaron and Ryno both used trials tires. Was there anyone else running these? Where did Geoff end up finishing?

If you drop compression, whether it be from the head spacer or the base gasket, you are going to loose a little bottom end...simply a matter of less compression. I think you'll probably find the slow throttle may be all you'll need and be happy with that. I've also found it useful to drop a tooth on the front sprocket, making 1st gear a little slower and more controllable. We're fortunate to have the Canadian importer right here in my home town. Here is the local dealership I use...RPM Cycle

The dual map came on the 2005 250/280s. It's a matter of an extra pair of wires coming out of the CDI that can be connected to form one curve, and disconnected for a second. Many dealers installed switches so it was operational by the rider without taking the tank off. 2006 models have the same setup only the switch is now factory installed...or so I'm told, haven't seen an 2006 in person just yet. I'v not tried the two maps personally as I rode a 300 this year. I'm told the difference is subtle, but noticable. The intension was to have one map softer and less aggressive in power delivery, while the other is sharper for grippier conditions or expert riders. There's been some discussion on it around here earlier in the year, might try a search.