jtt

Did you blow out all the orifaces?? Sounds like you unlodged something that is now jammed in a jet, most likely the pilot. I'd take it back off and carefully flush and blow out all the jets and the orifaces in the carb. Fuel screw setting will vary place to place and even day to day. Suggest you start at about 3.5 turns out and work from there.

Yamaha did indeed run a 2 wheel drive bike in this years Dakar. In fact it did very well in the tighter/nastier stages. Won a few of the early ones, but the little 450cc motor couldn't run with the big bikes in the open desert. Very cool concept! Apparently it is a limited slip type configuration that feed small percentages of power to the front wheel...something like 80% rear, 20% front

Actually I understand your first post Superfly However, the float bowl holds sufficient fuel for fairly long runs at idle speeds. If you want proof, shut off your gas petcock and leave the bike idle...it will sit there idling for quite a while. Now granted if the steep drop is longer than that, yes you will have a problem (we out here in Eastern Canada don't have to worry about hills that long ). Now, the carb drawing from the float, that can be another problem. Blipping the throttle will only make this situation worse though, as you are using up more of that fuel in the float bowl...although still a good idea regardless.

I'm in the same situation, deciding between 250, 280 and 300. I've had 2 280s (2002 and 2003) and really liked both. The 2003 was definitely softer with more bottom than the 2002. I've ridden the 2003 250 and really liked it. Slightly more controllable than the 280 (less wheel spin), but still lots of power. Cubby, was your 2002 Pro a 250 too?

Charlie, lay a straight edge against the side of the rear sprocket. This is easier with the chain off. Sight down the straight edge to the front sprocket. You'll see misalignment right away The other technique is to measure from the swingarm pivot to the axle on both sides. You can make yourself up a little "jig" with a piece of stiff wire for quick checks.

I've used tires of the same design as the RockCentral ones, back years ago. They've been building them in Quebec since the early 80s, and they are awesome, however somewhat expensive. They're a MUST if racing competitively though. I figured the trials tire would be too soft too, but was shocked to find how good it worked. I think most of the flex is taken out by the 1.5" screws through the 2 liners. They're plenty good for what we're doing, about 90% of what the "real" tires are like.

Very observant Nick! ...and yes Pete, it is bit of an experiment. I've found the trials tires work very well on Enduro bikes for most conditions in the woods and trails, so figured, since I was building up some new ice racing tires, I'd give one a try. I had a couple laying around with slashed sideways anyways. We ride on an ice oval. Heading out Sunday for the first run of the winter season, so will see how it works out then. Just thought folks might get a kick out of a new use for X11s

Couldn't be much worse that putting it on the rim! Those who don't like to change tires need not apply. There's two streetbike tires inside that one. Once you've changed one of these, everything else is cake

How about Ice Trails!!

You do know you could just loosen the bleed screws to releive the air right? I simply grind a very small amount of material off one spot on the plastic adjuster caps to allow access to the bleed screws. That way I still have the caps for "one the fly" adjustments.

Alan, I'd say you should check with the AMA insurance carrier and verify if they will cover it, or what their take on it is. I'd also say the second body in the wagon would be a wise decision. Additional waivers can't really hurt but are not worth much in court. Basic rule is to do "what a reasonable person would do" to prevent injury and protect the safety of users. If you set up your wagon as secure as possible, preferably with some sort of side rails, keep the speeds very low, have an experienced driver and a responsible "safety person", follow a predetermined and safe route and keep your fingers crossed, you should be fine There is a good chance that this will be covered under the AMA policy, but verifying it yourself would give much greater peace of mind. There are also insurance carriers out there that will provide "single event" coverage for such a thing too (common for festivals and fairs), but costs may well be prohibative for a simple hayride.

Brad, don't worry too much about tying it down too tight. Contrary to popular opinion, you'll not blow a fork seal from compressing the fork. You might also want to look very carefully at the fork tube for small nicks or scratchs, as these can also lead to seal problems. Excellent point on the bushings Hoodie. Although yours was clearly a manufacturing issue, it's common for older bikes to simply wear out the bushing and start blowing seals. It's something that should be checked each time the seals are done, just to be sure.

Gnarley dude...time warp By the way, great job Alan! Beats the heck out of "reality TV" Did you ever sort out your "hay ride" delema?

I've run as low as 3 psi in the rear on mine, and I'm 200lbs! This is in unusual conditions with slime covered rocks, but never had any problems even running that low...oh, and this is with Michelins. Normally I run 5-6 in front and 4-5 in the rear.

I think you'll find trials skills cross over to just about all two wheel activities DH bikes are basically trials bikes without a motor... but I think the trials bike is easier to push

Any good quality chain will do fine, O-ring chains tend to be better for real muddy conditions, but are usually wider and may rub. Bike uses a 520 chain and the length is dependant on gearing. Someone will come up with the stock length (number of links), or you can simply count the one you took off.

I saw it a couple of years back...called a Denali or something like that?? There is a video clip of it on the web with Geoff Aaron test riding it. Really cool idea!

I'd would have called it a "0" like you. Once the front axle is out, the ride is over...or at least that's what I always thought.

Fork seal failure is almost always nothing more than dirt getting under the wiper. Suggest you take the seals out and clean them well After carefully inspecting them decide whether there is actual damage visable or not and reassemble. I read a great suggestion from a very bright suspension expert on preventing failures. As opposed to using "SealSavers", try lifting the dust wiper and inserting a small strip of open cell foam (like air filter foam) in the void. First wet the foam with a light oil before inserting. This acts like a tiny filter element that will help keep the dirt from getting in under the seal and also provide some lubrication to the seals themselves. It's a cost free mod, that cannot really do any harm...worth a try in my books Seal failure are particularly common with bikes ridden in the mud, then put away without washing. The mud dries to the tube, then is forced under the seal when the suspension is compressed or the bike moved. A good habit to get in is to wipe your fork legs down after every ride with a lightly oiled cloth to prevent this from happening.

I'd suggest you clean off all the "factory grease" as this is little more than packing grease. Best to remove it ) and put a coat of proper chain lube on. Hot soapy water and a good stiff brush usually works fine to clean it off.

In around the 143lb mark, depending on who is doing the weighing

I'd be tempted to just buy the complete dogbones and put them in yourself. But first, take them all off yourself and have a look. Taking the "bones" off is not a big job. Then you'll have them on the bench where you can take a good look and likely tell if they are elongated or not. It's really not a huge undertaking, really. I have to do a set on a friends 200 Pro and will take pics for you and give you a "step by step" toutorial, with pics if you want.

So are you saying the cams are rotating? OK, lets back up to basics: 1) loosen axle nut 2) rotate cam adjusters located on both ends of the axle. These cams push on a solid "post" or "stop" on the swingarm. Rotating these will pull the wheel back and tighten the chain. 3) with the chain at proper "manufacturer's spec" tension, tighten the axle nuts with the cams up against the stops noted in #2. Next time, note the position of the cams before riding, then after. If they have moved, the axle cannot be tight. If they haven't...you've got chain problems.

I had the same question! Don't want to give anything but think "electro-magnetics"

Makes me laugh too ...but sounds oddly familiar Marky, I am not meaning to be offensive to you, just wanted to show why I get so tired of these silly remarks so often heard from all sides of the fence.