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Hey Ross, I was wondering how long it was going to take you to jump in over here This is an awesome place!

When changing out bearings, I use a couple of well selected sockets and a bench vise. Find a socket that is just slightly smaller than the bearing OD, then another with a ID greater than that of the bearing. Place the link in the vise, one socket on one side, the second on the other. Then tighten the vise. It works just like a press to push the bearing out. Nice and smooth, no hammering needed. Reverse the procedure for reinstallation.

Merry Christmas all! ...I'm on antibiotics for a throat infection, so can't drink No worry about me drinking too much.

I think that's really the key. Taken out of context, things sound much worse than intended...of course that's what keeps the tabloids in business (and much of the motorcycling press). Thanks for the open minded perspective FZ. I like (but not in a gay way ) riders with positive personalities and attitudes personally, but it's hard to judge strictly from the press.

I too have the Hebo Technical boots. Coming from an MX background, these things feel like bedroom slippers. Can't imagine anything being more comfortable. If I was to complain about anything, it would be that the leather they use is TOO supple (although nice and thick). They are broke in, right out of the box. After 2 years of heavy use, mine are holding up very well, however whatever support they formerly offered is largely gone. Surprisingly my soles have held up very well! (maybe I move around on my pegs more than R2w ) It's just the ankles are like....well, like those bedroom slippers As has been said, waterproofness is in doubt on any leather boot. However if mine are freshly treated, they are actually very good. However, as the treatment wears, the leaks start....makes it easy to know when to re-treat

Now Steve, how'd you pick that out? You've got a good eye my freind

No Dream.... Setup info Tech tips There was also a good little chart done up by Bill DeGaris that had all kinds of info in a nice little card format, but I can't find it now. It was older, but mostly still applicable. I'm sure someone out there knows where it is. Hope this helps!

I think this is one of the single biggest reasons effecting attracting new riders. As a relative newbie myself, and dealing with new riders regularly...and trying to sway "to-be" new riders , I can tell you that it is the single biggest obstacle. I understand that new riders are not entirely the problem but, newbies could care less about the rules, in fact, most find "stop and hop" much easier to understand and follow.

Another vote for the neoprene gloves. They are not waterproof, as has been noted, but do keep the wind off and stay warm even when wet. Heck, I even use mine Ice Racing...well below 0C.

Funny you say that, as back in the days when I was involved in the bicycle biz, the first thing you did when building up a new bike was detension all the spokes, then tension and true both wheels properly. Slow and tedious at times, but well worth it. Nearly all bicycle wheels are machine built from the factory as I am sure are motorcycle ones....some good, some not so good

Why do I feel there's more to this story?

If it's substantially out, definitely. If you want to be more accurate, fix something, like a screwdriver to the swingarm to use as a visual and audible guide (it will rub and make noise if out of true, side to side). If you fix it fairly solid and watch the edge for "up and down" you'll see it clearly.

Remember when you are talking about a spoked wheel that what happens to one spoke can and will effect all the other spokes. If one spoke is loose, the loads it normally handles are passed onto the others. If one is over tight, it is taking excessive loads for the others. Broken spokes are almost always a lack of maintenance or over tightening. If the rim is in acceptable condition, a good wheel builder can true it better than new. However, there is a point where a wheel can no longer be trued. Flat spots (big ones), severe warps (taco shaped) and such are grounds for a rim replacement. Moral of the story, check your spokes often and thoroughly and you'll always have round, strong wheels

It's not just Delorto that works with the tipping over trick. Every MXer I've ever had did the same thing. Basically your "spilling" some fuel direct into the intake...kind of a primer, as opposed to a choke. In fact, I've rarely seen a 2 stroke with a "true" choke.

A larger starter jet is one of the first things I do to all my bikes (it can get cold here )

Ask him if he prefers the "red" or "blue" powerband and would the "yellow" one be better for trials

Before replacing the cylinder, measure the piston to cylinder wall clearance. I don't have the spec off the top of my head, but your dealer or importer should be able to get it for you. What's the piston look like?

I wear mine under. If you wear MX type pants, under is easy. With Trials pants it can be a little trickier and you may have to wear them under. My Hebo trials pants have lots of knee room, so under is not a problem. Fat, I agree with you completely that one should not "over wear" braces. I was told to wear mine only when in a "high risk" activity, such as riding. I don't wear mine day to day or even in the gym for that matter (where I work on building that critical strength). Glad you mentioned that as I see too many people wearing braces and using them as a "crutch", thereby allowing the knee to get weaker and MORE prone to injury.

Sorry if I was unclear. That's exactly what I was getting at. Yes, the Pro does have adjustable damping, front and rear.

Pay no attention to that "chitlins guy", he still thinks Indians are "Leading edge design"

Yup, enrico has it right. The CTi is a custom fitted composite brace and when fitted properly, are extremely comfy and bulletproof. For what it's worth the Asterick braces are made by the owners of CTi (Innovative Sports) and are real popular with the MX crowd. They are an "off the rack" product and use an elaborate lacing system to provide that "custom fit". They also come in pairs (CTi are one ofs) and include a patalla cup (so you've got some protection when...sorry, "if" you fall down) Webpage The cost for the CTi braces is double that of the Astericks but is often covered by Health insurance CTi site As I said, I now wouldn't ride without them.

I'm with r2wtrials on this one. Raga's style seems perfect for indoors...now outdoors, my money is still on Dougie.

Steve, I can tell you that my Pro is easier to hop the rear than my buddies TXT Edition by a slight margin. The Pros seem to have a weight bias towards the rear though. Comparing it to the TXT the rear is slightly lighter, but the front is considerably lighter. This becomes even more noticable when compared to the Montesa. I haven't had any time on a Beta to give you a comparison, sorry. I think in some cases it is a setup issue, as Marky mentioned though. A slower rear shock setup will not hop as well and feel heavier.

I've got two destroyed knees and wear CTis on both knees now, both on woods bike and trials. It takes a short time to adjust, but if your used to wearing them on your woods bike, it won't take you long to adjust. I'd feel naked without them now.

A gearbox explosion!!....WOW, never seen that before. Was anyone killed If get the opportunity to see the clutch design, you'll understand the rattle sound and why it stops with the lever it (really quite a neat design in fact). It's nothing to worry about and is more than mechanically sound.