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Sherpa, yes the 300 uses a different ignition than the 280. The 300 is a programmable unit from Ducati, as opposed to the dual map unit on the 280. Jools nailed it, you need a laptop, the disk and the special module to make changes. Have a hunt around for a dealer who has the kit, not worth buying yourself for most. Make sure he has the "updated" software too, as the 2004 software doesn't work on the 2005...even though it's "supposed" to be the same ignition.

The pickup is external to the flywheel on the Pro models. You can see it if you remove the ignition cover on the left side of the motor. The position is fixed (non-slotted mounting holes). As GasGas mentioned, you need to remove the pickup and carefully slot the holes to permit it to move slightly counterclockwise. There is little room to do this though, so the best you can hope for is a couple of degrees in most cases. There is also a head gasket spacer available from the UK that will drop compression and take some of the bark out of it. This seems to be the most popular solution. You can also add basegaskets to accomplish the same thing. GasGas lists 3 different thicknesses of gasket for the Pros, you can mix, match and stack as you see fit. Raising it from the base gasket also has the effect of raising the port timing slightly, which will also soften the bottom end (and put it higher in the rpm range). It also helps to fatten the pilot on these models, as it tends to make the power delivery less "sharp".

Marky, measure the spoke nipple size, then go down to your local MX dealer and order yourself a ProCircuit one, or similar type (they're also sold by others). These are precision machined, with replaceable tips of different sizes. They're a little spendy, but not crazy and truely precision tools...not a "multi-size" "sorta fits" deal. PC Wrench

Alan, I think you'll find it's simply the natural pressure that you apply to the bars. The right one would move as well only it's held in place by the throttle. Same thing happens on every bike I've ever had...a good reason to glue and lockwire grips I fugure. I don't think it would stop it moving no matter how much you cut off the bar...but you can keep cutting off the protruding end and see if you end up with one hand on the crossbar If you want to prove it, put the bars on backwards...the grip should then move outward on the bar...at least if you can ride it that way far enough to actually move the grip

...honeybee (least according to Jo )

That's why it's always wise to use the same gauge. Use your gauge for comparison to what worked for you last time out, never mind what other's gauges read.

GasGasBoy, the programming effects the ignition advance curve. The changes are not super dramatic, but very noticable for sure. The mellower curves make for a much smoother, less abrupt power characteristic, particularly off the bottom. Here's a graph of the various curves for referance.

On the airbox item, check the position of the metal bracket on the actual airbox (the bit the bolt threads into). As you will notice, the cross piece with the threaded bit is offset from center. This offset should be on the upper side. I noticed on my '05 that this was inverted, so that the cross bit and therefore the bolt were lower in the airbox and very difficult to negotiate. I removed mine and flipped it back to the top position and removing and installing the filter is now a breeze. On the spring, make sure that the locking ring is good and tight. I've seen many back off, and not just on Pros, mostly on MXers. If it continues to back off, a little dab of locktite will do wonders. Keep a close eye on it for a while. Set it where you want and measure the preloaded length of the spring. This will give you a benchmark that you can check against.

That's about it. No other significant changes. With the ignition reprogrammed to a mellower setting, you should get on fine. The Carb is nice

Yup, 400-450cc is fine. Sight glass is only useful to tell you you've run dry

Not totally true. Actually some stock ignitions are effected by running non-resistor plugs. I've seen some that would exhibit all kinds of weird running when using a non-resistor plug, only to completely "heal thyself" when an "R" plug was installed. I'd try an "R" plug first, just to eliminate variables.

asc, the 04 Raga has a programmable ignition but you need the software and hardware to change it. There are 4 curves available to choose from. Check with your dealer, he will likely have the kit and can do it for you.

Try the 48 but I'd be surprised if the 45 is lean enough to make it hunt. I'd check for an air leak at the intake manifold. I'm presently running a 45 pilot, JJH in the middle clip in my 300 at sealevel and approx 20-25 C temps. A fatter pilot will help to smooth things out some, but check that intake regardless.

Well done Geoff! Do I hear 10?

First thing you need is some sort of spacer for the reed cage or the engine side spigot of the carb. The Keihin is shorter front to back than the DelOrto and the airboot won't reach. You can use a reed block spacer from an older TXT Edition model, or get a spigot adaptor (I think BVM sells them?). You will then need a different throttle cable, as the stock one is a tad short. It can be made to work with a modified cable straw (the metal tube the cable runs in on the DelOrto), but better to just get the right cable. Fuel line is no big deal, just plug it in. Route the vent lines down, or if your worried about alot of water, run the two float vents (the vertical fittings on either side of the carb body) up and into the airbox or some other high point. Cut the vent hoses hanging down at a sharp diagonal angle, this makes them less prone to filling with mud and failing to vent. For pics, go to r2's site www.r2wtrials.com He's got a few pics of his newly installed carb.

On these forks it is normally a volume measurement used. If I remember correctly a starting point is 300cc per leg. 5wt is generally standard.

colly, fortunately "a lot of people" have never actually owned one, but seem to have lots of opinions -Keep the air filter clean -change gearbox oil regularly (the more frequent the better...clean oil is always best). I change mine after every second ride for instance. -check spoke tension (perhaps monthly) -check fasteners regularly -grease linkage bearings and steering head bearings (monthly if riding in very wet conditions) -lube pivot points (footpegs, shifter tip, levers, etc) A little spritz of WD40 on the frame and motor also helps prevent corrosion. Same goes for spoke nipples. -wash bike after riding....that does not mean just getting the bike clean, it means doing a close look over as you wash all the little nooks and crannys. This is the most important item that is commonly missed. A little TLC goes a LONG way on ANY bike.

Ok...who are you and what have you done with Ringo

Indeed

Brilliant, ageless movie for sure. I still love the scene with the tiny kid doing the huge wheelies back and forth past the camera...who can name him?

300 is very grunty. Encourages you to ride at lower rpms I find. Very smooth and controlled. Try one if you can, think it may fit the bill.

...good shelter from the rain I suppose

admacp, I agree with opdeweegh1, your piston and cylinder are fine. Sounds like a fuel/jetting issue to me. You say it does it when hot? ....at closed throttle, or just under 1/4 throttle? My guess is it's lean on the pilot, they all seem to be unless your in the mountains. I'd go up at least one size on the pilot, with the highest octane fuel you can easily get. Willing to bet it cures the problem straight away.

Are we talking about the fan shaped cog on the kickstarter shaft? I've not seen one break over here...mind we don't have the number of them you folks do. I heard of guys breaking them on the '02 models, but that was often down to having moved the kickstarter on the spline and allowing the gear to roll past it's limit of engagement.

The recommended oil is the Autotrak or Dextron ATF. Pro clutch plates are very particular to their lubricant, although other oils may work fine, it's best to stick with the recommended fluid and be sure.