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If it bothers you, it's worth fixing. Just make adjustments in small increments, recheck, adjust again. Get comfortable, take your time and remember that as one side tightens, so does the other, so you may have to back the tension off on the one side, while increasing tension on the other. Do a google search for wheel building/trueing. There are bound to be some good sights out there with simple instructions, particularly in the cycling circles where wheel building/repairing is commonplace (and the same principals apply).

Is this a "Pro" or a standard TXT "Edition"?

As long as you have the 1" clamps, like on the '04 Raga and '05 models. You can also buy the optional clamps direct from Hebo (which are stronger than the stock '05 ones).

Hey Spike, I think r2 pretty much covered the fork thing. The clickers are not as effective as the ones your probably used to on MX bikes, very subtle adjustments I've found. If I remember correctly I think they use 300cc of oil per leg. One leg is rebound, one is compression. You can vary fork oil weights to get the results you want if your keen. Basically I think r2's advise about balancing the front to the rear is the single biggest thing, particularly for beginners. As for your brakes, once you get everything back together give them a good "seasoning". By that I mean get your garden hose out and ride around the yard for a few minutes with the brake on, dragging. Get the rotor good and hot (not to the point of discolouration, but pretty hot) and while it's still hot hit it with the cold water. Do this a couple of times and I think you'll be very impressed with the improvement. I'm not quite sure why it works, but know it does. Had a Sherco back a few years ago with horrible brakes...seasoned them regularly and they were fine. Not usually a problem with the newer 4 piston calipers, but seems to be more pronounced on the two piston models.

Stimpy, you might want to try a little dot of silicone sealant on the end of the shaft next time round, at least then if the bolt does loosen again, the shifter won't fall off. Keep a close eye on your rear brake lever pivot bolt too, as I've seen these fall off on several occasions. The GG Enduro ones have a snap ring on the shaft, as well as the clamping bolt. Would have been a nice addition to the Trials models too I guess.

I feel your pain...I went riding one day and the bike stopped...ran out of gas no less. Poor design not having a warning light or spare fuel tank Sorry, don't mean to take a p*** at you, but r2 and the others are right. You need to check fasteners from time to time as part of normal maintenance. I can assure you having owned many bikes over the years, that all will have bits fall off if left unattended. I've got several Beta/Sherco bits in my kit bag that I've picked up during trials, but this is in no way a fault of the bike.

The spacer is available direct from GasGas, or you can make one yourself from a small bit of plate (although not worth the trouble as they are cheap to buy), or you can make/buy a spigot adaptor like this...

Sherpa, I don't have any handy, but as r2 said, it's pretty apparently when you remove the cover. It is external to the flywheel and accessable without removing the flywheel. Rode the bike in a trial yesterday and worked flawless all day

Must say I just received my new 2005 300 Pro and had the same starting trouble that Ian mentioned earlier. It could be started the odd time, with a VERY aggressive kick. That kind of kicking would make short work of a kickstarter or mechanism. Set about solving the puzzle. Started with the basics of richening the jetting (as this is something that seems to be common for us here anyways, way lean from factory)...nothing. Checked the needle valve as Sting mentioned, nothing. Checked for spark and it seemed that the spark was somewhat intermittant...turns out it was just that at lower rpms (turning the starter by hand) it wouldn't fire. Changed plug cap and plug just to be sure, still nothing. Started to realise that if I spun the motor quickly by kicking it with the plug out, that I got a nice strong spark...hummm Just for arguement sake, I then removed the top end and added an extra thick base gasket to lower compression with the hope of being able to spin the motor faster on startup...voila! It started!! Still too far too hard a kick though for my liking, more like a slap at the starter, which again is far too hard on the gear. Started looking into why it too so much rpm to generate spark. It takes a certain amount of voltage to be generated at the stator to build energy for the spark, it also takes voltage to initiate the spark from the pickup. Since there was no way to change the air gap between the flywheel magnets and the stator windings, without major surgery, I decided on the off change to check the gap on the pickup. Loosened the mounting bolts and adjusted the gap between the pickup and the flywheel to .002". There is enough slack in the bolt holes to give you a significant range of adjustment (when talking in .001" increments) Check again for spark with the plug out...strong and easy to spark, even with hand stroking the starter. Buttoned all back up...and bang....starts everytime! Almost always on the first kick. No more whacking the kickstarter, just a solid single stroke, like always. So, for anyone experiencing this problem, check that air gap before kicking yourself and your machine senseless. Can't guarantee it will work for all, but certainly worked for me, and would explain why some have no trouble and others nothing but trouble, simple slip when assembling the electronics and not verifying gap. Most electronic ignitions I've dealt with over the past years have not been too sensitive to this gap, so it is normally not even considered. Clearly Ducati ignitions are more sensitive. NOTE: this is only on 2005 300 Pros, the 250/280s use a different ignition system entirely.

Could be crank seal too, sucking gearbox oil. Perhaps ignition is weak. Lots of possibilities, but like Alan said, start at the basics and work your way forward, making no assumptions.

admacp, the plates should always be installed with the sharp edge facing outwards, towards the cover. In theory the sharp edge could catch on a burr or create a burr preventing the clutch from engaging properly. Personally have never seen it happen, but have always made a point of installing the plates this way just "because"

...what Jools said... Improvement on the bottom is not major, but the top end is a big difference. It's like adding 1500 rpm on the top. Also some messing about to get it to fit, as Jools mentioned. Is it worth it? Depends on your mechanical abilities and expendable cash. Is it a must have? NO (unless maybe your a Championship level rider). It is also worth noting that the Keihin is a finer metering carb (for lack of a better description), and is much more sensitive to jetting and air screw settings. The DelOrto is pretty much a set and run kind of deal.

...or on ANY bike for that matter...motorcycle transmissions (exclusing Harleys...sorry Charlie ) are not tractor gearboxes...no need to stomp on them, a gentle tap will suffice and be much kinder to the mechanism. Charlie is also correct that the flat face should be the thrust side. Pretty obvious if you think about it. Just think about the forces on the clip and install it accordingly. By the way the same "flat edge/round edge" thing is also present on clutch plates.

Bigsaint, I personally haven't dealt with Lewisport, but have heard nothing but positive feedback about them. Spoken to Dallan once of twice, seem like decent folks too.

Charlie is right. Rebuilding a shock is no big deal to someone with experience and the right tools, but without that, best left to the pros. Vey easy to damage expensive bits and possibility of serious injury if done incorrectly.

Bigsaint, you should get a hardcopy manual with the bike. It's not truely what I'd call a service manual, more like an owners manual, but all that is available. As for the filters, I think they are unique to the Pros. It's like a mini MX style filter. The older ones used Twin Air filters as stock parts, but GG may have sourced out another source for 2005, I'm honestly not sure. Either way I think you'll find the filters are pretty cheap regardless.

Tim, interesting stuff . KC is always interesting reading and always enlightening for sure. Bottom line about these runaways is "it don't require the ignition" so kill switches, plug wires, plug caps and such are not gonna kill that engine. You might just as well try kehin's method

Even with gloves, if they are slightly wet you can give yourself a dangerous jolt, let alone risking serious damage to the ignition. Besides in some of these "runaway" cases, the bike is dieseling anyways (plug tip so hot it's autoigniting) and removing the cap won't stop it anyways, same as when the kill button won't work. If you were real fast you could remove the plug itselt As HondaRS said, the Domino throttle have a release feature that if you pull the cable straight up, and off it goes slack without breaking anything. If that doesn't work, I'll usually jam a rag or gloved hand over the exhaust...that kills it everytime.

I'm holding out for Charlie's list...bet he'd had/has a few dating back to before rubber tires

1977 Suzuki TS75 1974 Honda Z50 197? Kawasaki S1 1979 Honda CX500 1978 RS125 1982 Kawasaki GPz550 1984 Kawasaki GPz750 1985 Suzuki GS750ES 1984 Honda CR125 1984 Honda XR350 1985 Honda VF500 1985 Honda TLR200 1986 Honda NS400R 1991 Kawasaki 550 1993 Kawasaki 750 1996 Suzuki RM125 1999 Honda CR250 2000 Honda CR250 2001 Honda CR250 2002 GasGas 280Pro 2003 " " 2004 " " 2005 " 300 Pro (coming soon) 2003 GasGas EC250 1973 Yamaha RD350 2003 Honda XR100 Hummm... I know I missed a few early ones, but close enough. Still got the last 4 in the garage...oops,plus the Z50

It does sound like something is a miss Jools. After spacing the centerbox, you should be pretty clear. Maybe consider having the bolt holes in the silencer rewelded and redrilled slightly off, to permit it to set off a bit more.

As r2 suggested, swap the spacer on the lower mount and even take it one step farther and swap the upper one too if you wish (up at the shock mount). This moves the whole box over slightly and gives more room. Other than that, put heavy clear numberplate backing materials (the stuff the MXers use) on the inside of the silencer. Then the tire rubs on it rather than the aluminum.

I've been there several times myself. When she's feeling better and her sense of humour has returned, you can use this incident to convince her trials is a much safer sport ....and women look much nicer in trials kit

HERE is a bit of info to have a look at.