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The needle only works at larger throttle openings. That "close throttle knock" is a pilot thing, or possibly fuel, but I'll bet 1-2 richer on the pilot will cure it A very wise man once told me that you should be able to go WFO in say third gear, close the throttle (without touching the clutch) and let the bike coast all the way down to idle speed...now whack it WFO again. If it responds quickly and sharply (usually a big wheelie) then your pretty close on the pilot setting....if it "clacks" when the throttle is shut, or bogs or hesitates when re-opened, then you can improve it.

Thomas, the clutch rattle is normal with the clutch disengaged. It's the design of the clutch as the actuating finger float freely. On the knock sound...are you speaking about a knock when the throttle is snapped shut after higher revs? If so, it is most likely a lean pilot jet. This is common for this part of the world anyways.

Thomas, those things again sound more like poor PDI. Pretty minor stuff I figure. Every manufacturer has some little issues, some more serious than others, but details like those (aside from the transmission noises) seem pretty trivial (no offence intended). Even the touted quality leaders Honda have issues like 2002-2003 Honda CRs, with airboxes that didn't seal and sucked dirt into the motor the first sign of dust/mud, seizing the motor...remember not warranty, competition motorcycle. That's a QC matter worth worrying about. I think you'll find your Pro to be like your EC, once you get it all sorted and setup to your liking, you'll get great service and be glad you held out for the ride performance.

I'm curious Thomas, what problems did you have with your EC250?

If you can get it in the UK, 3M makes and excellent spray contact adhesive that works exceptionally well. YOu can often find it in autobody supply outlets and such. Clean the surfaces really well with a contact cleaner or alcohol and follow instructions on the can.

I hear next year he's going to try it on a Scorpa

The 200 Pro is really a fun bike. I go 195lbs and it hauls me up anything that my 280 will. Sure it's got less grunt, but is also very forgiving. Although the actual weight is insignificantly different, I swear the 200 is 10lbs lighter...really lively....and yes, they are only 175cc.

A little tip to prevent this happening is to add a bungee (elastic cord) between the hooks of the tiedown. This keeps constant tension on then regardless of how much bouncing you do. On a side note, how bad do you find that trailer bounces with a rigid axle? I was considering building a minitrailer like that with a rigid axle for symplicity, but worried about it taking flight on each pothole in the road.

Don't worry geomoney, your not mad....it's been documented to happen in many cases on many different machines. You can get away with non-resistor plugs in some applications, but not all. Better to stick with the manufacturer's recommendation. There's no gain to be had from non-resistor plugs.

Unless you are a truely top level rider...yup. Ohlins bits are beautifully machined and run extremely close tolerances. Will the average guy notice a big difference?..not too likely. For what it's worth I run Ohlins fork and shock on my Enduro bike. Lovely, pain to work on (internally) but lovely when set up correctly.

We actualy welded a couple of legs to each end of a 45 gallon drum and it works quite well.

I think Villie pretty much summed it up. The TXT Edition is the "pre Pro" model that GasGas continued to produce kind of as "ol'reliable"....less expensive but well proven. Don't know if it's still even being offered in 2005 though. The "long ride" is an attempt to put a seat and big tank on a trials chassis making it more "trailbike" like. Neat idea, but where you already have a proper trail/dirt bike it might not be as appropriate for your application...unless you truely want to do extensive trail riding.

I'll back up Buster on the little 200 having plenty of power...he speaks the truth. They're not nearly as demanding on revs as the "big bikes" (MX and Enduros that is). Yes, for big stuff you will definitely need to rev it more than a 280 or 300, but not like the difference between your KTM300 and a 125. The bigger bore ones are simply torquier down low...which is good and bad in one. I think if you were to compare them to KTMs, the 200 is...well like a 200, the 280 is more like the KTM250 (little more aggressive power than the 200 or 300), while the 300, like your KTM is the torque monster, but very, very smooth. Although the actual weights are virutally identical, the 200 feels like it's 10lbs lighter when riding it. You wise to purchase from your local dealer as supporting him will get you support in return in most cases. Definitely take Buster up on his offer, there's nothing like actually riding them.

Scott, as you can clearly see trials riders are easily as "brand loyal" (in fact much more in my experience) as enduro and MX guys As a long time MXer and Enduro rider I can tell you that you will find a marked improvement in your "big bike" riding after spending some time on a trials bike. I strongly recommend them for cross training...as well as general all round fun. You can do some light trail riding on a trials bike...no they are not best suited to this, but are tolerable on short runs. They will flatten the most technical sections you can imagine. On the brand thing...all are great. There's not a bad one in the lot. Don't worry about the "seat" deal, as I think you now understand (not that you didn't already know this) that your not going to be doing a Baja run on these things Just like with Enduros and MXers there is always someone running down "the other guys", but coincidentally most of the biggest talkers are just that and have never owned the bike in question to start with. Take that for what it's worth...seeing the only "real" Pro owner posting so far has nothing but positive comments. Go for it! I can assure you, you will NOT regret it

It is possible gasgas, although in most cases the drum adjustment will effect most of the gear range. On the primary shaft question, your stressing my poor little memory too much Can't remember off hand. If your in doubt, pop it apart. Super easy motor to work on and that little tranny is a lovely bit of work. Whole thing fits in the palm of your hand.

Less so on the newer models Teedo, but it's still not a bad idea to seal the airbox seam regardless...just as insurance. The front engine guard r2 mentioned is also a nice idea and makes for easier cleaning to boot.

Normally you'll hear the gear fully engage. Sometimes it's just a matter of the dogs not being aligned at a particular time. Try moving the wheel a little and trying it again.

Glad to hear you made your event Spokes...life's boring without a little excitement

Yes, removing the retaining clip is critical to the operation....don't worry, we've all done it.

Compression damping on right leg, rebound on left. In order to adjust preload you must open the fork and put spacers under the springs

Who you calling "afloat" Can't talk right now, gotta throw out that last dozen lobster I couldn't finish at lunch, starting to smell like Bloor St.

Somehow I managed to delete my own post... Sting Click Here and download the '05 parts manual. You can tell the year of the part update by the part number. MT280345677 is from '03, MT280545677 is from '05 The '05s are apparently using the mineral oil based hydraulics like last years Raga replica, so you'll likely see a new line and new reservoir cap (stamped mineral oil, rather than DOT4) Hope this helps clear the confusion some.

Dean, you should make up snow plow attachments for those deisel-pigs, that way the next time it snows in TO they won't have to bother the army. Real bikes only need 2 strokes