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Oceanvibe, I'd just give the plates a good wipe down with clean rags. They are rarely terribly dirty and shouldn't need solvent or any particular cleaners. HondaRS, with Pro clutches, they rarely wear, but will swell with some oils. This swelling is well documented. The reason for ATF is not necessarily that it is thinner, but that it is better suited to this particular clutch material. It provides more than enough lubrication and is perfect for wet clutch applications. It should be changed regularly as ot does breakdown with time, just as with any gearbox oil.

I think they actually did just that...only some folks alway feel they know better than the factory and modify too much. Do they really need the restrictors out for their riding level? I doubt it...and just how much difference in power do they really make? I bet all restrictors in place vs none is no more than 2-4 hp at best.

Maybe it's just that I love tools, but a proper chain breaker is pretty cheap (think they're like $25 Cnd here) and will last a lifetime. I've had mine for well over 20yrs and still going strong. Handy for breaking endless chains, and also for cutting new chain to fit. No counting links and getting the dealer to cut it only to find it's too short or long. Just buy the standard length and cut to fit...particularly nice when changing gearing.

I intended that you spin the wheel, and once it is stopped, wipe the excess. I've got enough finger issues without putting them through the sprockets Both my pinky fingers have been broken and dislocated enough times that neither are fully functioning anymore. Can't straighten them, but I made sure they are bent enough that I can hold handlebars

I gotta bet on a proven winner...Geoff

..."If all the other manufacturers decided to start manufacturing feminine hygiene products instead of motorcycles, Montesa would win" Hontesa put all their eggs in the 4t basket due to marketing. They are thinking long term and know that although they'll get their butts handed to them indoors this first year, when the FIM dictatorship forces 4ts down everyones throats (which is a certainty) that they'll be at least a year up on everyone else. It has NOTHING to do with "bottle", they don't produce a 2 stroke anymore, so cannot compete on one, regardless of the riders wishes. There is no way on God's green earth that the Marketing people at Hontesa would ever allow them to compete on last years bike, when the differences are so obvious. The tables will soon be reversed when 2 strokes are banned completely and the one with the biggest R&D budget wins.

Looks to be Raga again in Livorno, followed by Cabestany and Fuji.

One word...Marketing Hopefully they don't go down that road and go with what the rider's want, although we'll never know.

Give a couple of suspension specialty shops a call. Anything can be rebuilt, just depends on whether you or the suspension guy is willing to put the money and time into it.

Try 300cc per leg.

Using WD40 on your chain, you might as well be lubing it with gasoline. WD stands for "water displacing". It is a very poor lubricant and certainly no match for the loads put on a chain. So why does it seem to work? Because it is also a very effective solvent. The chain is clean and doesn't attract dirt that forms the grinding paste, as was mentioned. Still doesn't lubricate work spit, but the fact the chain is clean helps alot. If you choose to use traditional sticky chain lubes, the key is to clean the chain at each bike cleaning, dry it, then apply the lube spareingly to the area between the links (pins). Then give the wheel a quick spin and wipe off the excess with a rag. Lube on the outside of the chain does nothing for the chain except collect dirt. Where you want the lube is inside those pins and bushings. If you want easier clean up and a superior chain lube that is very affordably priced, I suggest you try MX1000. A very good product, providing excellent lubrication, water dispersing and it's a dry film lube, so no collecting grit. Cleans up with soapy water and a brush.

That'll work

Very cool! Probably not the bike for the 250lb novice rider though

Good chance it has to do with the shift drum positioning. With the bike shut off and in a quite place, put your ear right down by the shifter and slowly move it into 1st, then neutral, then second. You should hear a distinct "click" at each movement before the shifter runs out of travel.

...and there is the proper answer! It's the prime time to have a really close look at everything. Broken bits, loose bolts, unusual rubbing, etc. Shiney and pretty is just a side benefit Most people wash their bikes for the wrong reason and therefore miss the real benefits.

Ah, ah, ah....wrong answer

Glad to hear the science project came out OK. I agree with you Alan, that in the real world, pure HP numbers don't mean everything. I can tell you that with running a proper race fuel, jetted sharp, that there is WAY less loading up between sections. Crisp all the time, with rarely (if ever) any need to do the "clean out" rev common before entering sections. A little spooky hearing a motor scream to the moon on the dyno isn't it

Here's a question: Why do you wash your bike? No joke, what is the most important reason to wash your bike?

Possible it could be the sprocket shaft seal too. A careful cleaning of all areas will show it up most likely. They are sometimes hard to chase down, but oil leaks always show themselves at some point

Calv, I had one that the centre case gasket was slightly displaced and started leaking after several months. Suggest you spray everything off really good with solvent, then wait a day or so and watch close to where the leak is coming from. Might also be a clutch cover gasket.

Good on Caby!! Well done. Makes it more interesting when there's more than one in the hunt.

During the early stages of the "Race for Outer Space" Nasa spent millions of dollars on developing a space pen that would write in zero gravity conditions....the Russians used a pencil. I use a roller stool Added benifit is I can sit down on the job, and have my feet to use as extra hands in some situations (like installing a wheel). Also takes up less room in my already cramped garage.

Beware that sythetic oils can cause swelling of the plates and lead to dragging. Stick with Dextron or the GM Autotrack...change frequently. These are the only fluids recommended by GasGas.

Mint, try taking it into your dealer and having him reprogram the ignition. This seems to fix CDI problems in many cases.

Here in Canada passing on the right (or left in the case of UK ) is permitted, but not encouraged. You can and will get ticketed for excessive "lane swapping". Drivers hanging in the passing lane is still a problem over here for sure. Over here, when they import BMWs, Mercedes and Volvos, all the upholstery is sprayed with a special chemical. This chemical slowly leached into the skin through the driver's posterior ensuring they act as the later