jtt

I just saw a bulletin the other day that GasGas has seen fit, in light of the the 125cc restriction, to produce what is effectively an Adam Raga replica 125 with lots of trick bits. Good to see the manufacturers getting on board to help the younger riders.

Let us not forget that the 4 strokes are allowed nearly double the displacement too in order to be close to competitive.

Sort of like the illegitamate love child of Britain

.....yeah ! And just look at MotoGP! That damn Italian, Rossi guy, has the audacity to go and beat all the poor lads from UK and N America. Cheating he is, I tell you!! ...and how about them sneaky French in the MX GPs! (I mean, really Belgium is just France in disquise, right?) ....bloody taking championships year after year, with no recourse from the FIM!! Superior riding ability should be abolished!! Just terrible what goes on these days....

Not even, I think it was an early prototype of the 4T Enduro powerplant. The production ones look quite different.

Adding race fuel to pump gas is effectively doing the same thing as adding octane booster or improver. Your only watering down the race gas adding pump fuel to it, and not truely taking advantage of the properties of a good fuel. That said, in actual application, the chemistry of some of these octane boosters are in some question and have some odd characteristics with plastic tanks and such as nearly all are designed for automotive applications.

Oil also has greater BTUs than fuel I'm with Billy on this one Alan. Using those parameters there should be no appreciable differences, assuming you are not using oxigenated fuel blends and the specific gravities of the various fuels are consistant. The advantages of "race fuel" over pump sludge is more than jusut octane. Octane is only a single factor. Race fuels are consistant from batch to batch (not even close to true of pump gas). They eliminate the "car crap" additives. They also are able to tune the distillation curves to meet specific needs. Because of this, lumping all "race fuel" into a single category isn't very accurate and why you hear guys saying stuff like "I tried that racing gas stuff and it didn't do anything". The wrong fuel for the wrong application will put you backwards nenarly every time. Combine that with sloppy jetting and you will almost surely loose HP. Now, running an appropriate octane level race fuel, with an appropriate distillation curve, and jetted sharply will most definitely make a difference, even in a bone stock machine.

You'll get it Spokes ...and it will likely be something all too simple. Keep us updated, I'm really getting curious.

Leaded fuel is fine for your 2 stroke engine...in fact is the preferance of most racing teams, however most are mandated to use only unleaded.

An easy way to determine if it's a left side crank seal is to pull on the choke. This will deliver more fuel that should help offset the lean condition created by a leaking seal. The other possibility is that it's a right side crank seal, letting transmission oil into the crankcase and making for a rich condition. If this is the case the choke will make it much worse. Always wise to check electrical connections and grounds. I am doubtful about the reeds causing the problem, but can't hurt to look. Normally damaged reeds effect the lower end and midrange more than top end.

There's something I will agree with you on Ishy

Me too I don't think a salary cap is the answer. I mean, these guys, even the likes of Dougie make nothing compared to top MXers and Roadracers, and their sports are thriving. Honda has the cash and political muscle to change things to their liking if they really wanted to...no fear, next year's (or the following year's) indoor rounds will likely look much different than present. I'm not against the technology of the 4rt at all. In fact I personally find it very impressive. I'm just not a big fan of the simple 2 stroke being muscled out, then changing sections to ensure they die a quick death.

D36 Needle 105 Main Jet 36 Pilot jet 268K Nozzle? Spokes, have you check to make sure the fuel petcock is clear? Next time it does it, try pulling on the choke. Does it help or make things worse?

I see no "dodge". I'm sure if you spoke "off-record" to Dougie or Fuji they'd have gladly rode the 315 Indoors had they been given the opportunity.

Am I missing something? I haven't been able to watch any of this years Indoor rounds, being up here in the Great White North, but have the sections changed that much from last year? If not, why would anyone change them to suit a single brand of machine? Perhaps if everyone was on the same bikes, then this would be appropriate, but clearly that's not the case. If I was to go Superbike racing on an XR100, I wouldn't expect the organisers to make the track 30' long. You are right Ishy in that the tables will likely even out or turn when they get outdoors....then what? Should the sections be modified to provide more huge steps to even the odds for the 2 strokes? Don't count on it.

Shows a high level of professionalism on their parts in my books. True pros never blame the crew or the equipment when they fail to get the job done.

I'd love to hear more about the trials school too. We're half thinking of making the trek. It's a long trip for us, but my son is really into Monster Trucks and there is apparently these guys are also in the area this weekend, so I'd get to get my ears blasted to bits, then go to the Motorama and maybe even ride! ...although that may be stretching it Further info would be appreciated. Any suggestions of "reasonable" accomodations also appreciated.

Wardo, first...congrats on the new purchase! As far as setup goes, there is not much to do. I usually find the pilot jetting a little lean on most Pros for my liking, but that's personal, not required. I also always install a richer starter jet (stock is #60, I go #65). This makes it much easier starting on the choke in the cold and doesn't effect it negatively in the summer months. Listen for signs of pinging or "pinking" that may indicate a lean condition and jet accordingly, but you'll not likely have any problems. Change the tranny oil regularly, and as you've probably already read, the recommended fluid is ATF. See Jim Snell's site for technical details. Always make sure the carb boot on the airbox side is fully attached to the carb. Some of the newer bikes use a little black adaptor on this connection and have been known to be installed incorrectly and let dirt directly into the carb. If your going to ride alot of water, it's worth splitting the airbox and resealing the joints with RTV Silicone sealant. Other than that, ride and enjoy!

Bob, if the fuel doesn't cure it, pay close attention to the position of the throttle when you hear the "pinking". This will give you an indication which carb circuit is lean. It helps to make little marks on the throttle housing with something you can remove later, like "white out" (that liquid eraser stuff you use when writing on paper).

Heard they chain 'em to a post between rides...so they don't float away in the breeze

Matt my freind, I have a hard time sympathizing with you when I'm buried in 3' of bloody snow and -18C temperatures That said, have a look at GasGas UK's website under Enduro. Hebo have a nice anorak style true raincoat listed in their enduro line.

Funny how it always seems to be that way isn't it

Ringo? More like Dirk Diggler

A testament to the grit and determination of Dougie as much as the machinery.