trialsnutterman

The only adjustment is at the lever on the master cylinder, I find mine best when all but the tinyist bit of free play is taken out of the lever but I doubt this is your problem. Because the system is hydraulic any wear in the actuating rod or the plates is automatically adjusted for, just like when you pads wear on the brake the lever stays in the same place, so other than the lever adjuster you cannot change the travel without going to a lot of trouble. All of the bikes stick a little when cold, they usually get better when warm so it might be worth having a go on somebody else's bike to see if yours is any worse. You say it is OK with new oil, so how old is the oil in there now and what oil are you using? I always use the recommended Ipone Gear Box Oil (Box 2 Synthesis) and I change it fairly regularly, usually when I feel the clutch sticking slightly say every couple of months.

None of the 2009 UK bikes came with the alloy stand, they are also on the steel foot pegs, have the non switch able map ignitions and have solid disc's, this was all done to keep the UK price down. There is nothing wrong with the steel stand, the alloy stand is lighter but I doubt you will notice it when riding and if your that serious you will take it off anyway. Oh and they are over a

They run fine on 95 but sometimes, if going down the road for example they can start to knock using 98 helps. You oil amount is correct, if your using a good quality fully synthectic 2 stroke oil you can run a lower ratio, I run mine at 75:1 I think it helps prevent the exhaust getting bunged up with oil.

Wow you must be tighter than me It's go to know though, thank you.

Yeah defiantly check all bolts will a spanner socket, don't forget the swingarm axle hidden under the plastic caps.

The HT lead isn't replaceable so don't try and unscrew it, it will snap off.

I'd put a new cap on it and go for a good practise and see if it happens again, sound to me that this will be your problem. Oh and make sure all your earths are good, i.e. clean and tight

Ha, about be right with the power of that thing.

How well have you cleaned the carb, I take it you've at least taken the jets and mixture out then blown through with compressed air, if not that would be my 1st suggestion Also have you cleaned the air filter and box, what's the filter like? After that check for a air leak on, manifolds, gaskets, crank seals, to do this you need to pressurise the cases to about 8psi and then check it after 10mins hopefully it should be still holding 8psi, I've got a bung that I fit in the exhaust port and another to go in the inlet manifold with a air valve that you can borrow, if you like, send me a PM.

Yeah that's pretty much it, use the oil height (145mm air gap) rather than the oil amount as it is impossible to get all the oil out without full stripping and cleaning. It's easiest to undo the drain bolts with a air impact wrench as the inner sometimes spin so they won't come undone, you'll need a special tool to undo the fork caps to fill them up with fresh oil, I use a appropriately sized bolt and 2 lock nuts, if you haven't got a impact gun it might be easier for you to take the entire fork leg out and drain the oil out of the caps.

I've been told it will definitely be at the dirt bike show. I can't wait

I'd guess that 29 is 290 and 25 would be 250cc VNBS129TR3A0106** was a early 04 model, if that's of any help.

Don't be to worried about heating the magnesium, it is only flammable as thin slithers or dust but saying that don't go mad at it with a blow torch, a electric heat gun is preferred. I'd have a go at drilling it as well, you can do it with a cordless drill if your careful.

New YZ450F see here

Ah ok you have got the right gasket then, my apologies. You'd think Sherco would have matched the cases to the transfer ports a bit better, there must be 5mm step between them which can be good for the flow, on the 290 they match quite well considering it is a casting. I wonder if they have changed the design on the later bikes.

The parts book isn't always right there are loads of little errors. I though you had a 2007 bike but even so the engine casings changed sometime late in 2005 and by the look of that photo you have got the newer casings. I've only owned 290s so I'm not a 100% sure but I think I would get the newer gasket and try it as I'm fairly sure it would fit much better, possibly you may have to trim it slightly if it protruded into the ports.

When I got my 08 bike I had to lift the needle a notch i.e move the clip down one from the middle. In the UK I nearly always run a larger main i.e. a 125 in winter and a 122 in the summer but you may need the 120 with you been in Australia. I also have always run a number 4 slide but they are quite expensive and they don't make a huge amount of difference. I'd start off by giving your carb a proper good cleaning, remove all the jets, the mixture screw, the main jet holder and the little needle jet behind this. Then use some carb cleaner to flush all the passages out before blowing clean with a air line, now do the same with all the parts you have taken off, hold all the jets up to a light to make sure they are clear, oh and make sure your hands are clean and all the tools you are using. If your still having problems check the float height, I've always run mine a bit high as I never found a good explanation of where or how it should be measured, then at the SSDT one of the Sherco factory mechanics was cleaning my carb I noticed he made the float level lower, end result my bike was pinging like hell all day, way too lean so rightly or wrongly it had to be put back to how I had it before, since then I've lowered the level and re-jetted it to suit.

I think they have sent you the wrong one, you need is M681 which is a little thicker around the transfer ports, you can clearly see your doesn't fit correctly in your photo.

Don't you find watching a rider standing still building up his confidence boring, I know I do. Equally when they have got the section that tiny bit too long so every rider just goes for a deliberate 3 just to get through on time, I could maybe watch one rider do this but when they all do it it's boring. I was watching a video of that French street trial the other day, the race (individually timed run, not head to head) in that was interesting and enjoyable to watch as they were keeping the bike moving all the time but I think racing on such severe obstacles is extremely dangerous and not really in the true spirit of trials riding.

You've got the wrong base gasket on and it looks like it has pulled in a little around the transfer ports maybe this is contributing to your mysterious problem. The line 4mm below the top of the barrel is were the ring go to, I don't know why the other side isn't marked maybe somthing to do with the turning forces acting on the little end bearing, its not something to worry about. It is very carbon coated, you usually get a bit of carbon blow by but your looks very excessive, I think I'd be changing the crank seals as it looks like you may have been burning a bit of gearbox oil.

Have you got a entry list and the start times, need to work out how long I can stay in bed for.

Most car ones work differently as they provide the temperature for the ECU and the gauge in the dash, the ECU turns the fan on. Trials bike ones are just a on off switch that turn on at a certain temperature. If you were really keen you could make a circuit up to use a car one, it would be fairly easy to rig it up with a adjustable turn on point, if that floats your boat.

True, I'm surprised they haven't brought in a tougher ruling over the tyre design, it has got to be the easiest and most effective method of lessening the severity of the sections. Would it be good for the newcomers I don't know, it may put them off slightly if it was taken to a extreme as a lot of the fun when I first started was in the wow this bike has just got me up that slippy bank it will go anywhere feeling.

Is the Dabster finally swaying! I do like the stop for a one rules, especially when they where first introduced as they were observed a bit more to the book but I don't think they should be reintroduced unless the world rounds go that way. If the world rounds do go full no stop it would be a good opportunity to go back to one set of rules for all.

Have a look here it shows the actual bearing and the meaning of the part codes. I was told the Sherco bearings are especially filled with oil not grease, but I'm not 100% sure of this, I've taken a old one apart and there was no grease in that just oil but it is possible it had just washed away over time.