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Unrelated to the current topic I have tried to send a message to Jon v8 via TC without success. If Jon v8 could get in touch it would be great. Many thanks, David

I am very much with Woody regards enjoying trials while we can. Whatever type of bike we enjoy riding the sport needs youngsters on modern bikes. To give these younger riders and other new starters the desire to carry on the clubs who cater for them deserve to thrive. I rode twinshocks, with no great success in the sections, but really enjoyed the ride round. When the first monoshocks appeared they did not appeal. Observing today at club and centre level trials it is often the case a rider on a twinshock or pre-65 bike who can produce some really good rides on the same course as the modern bikes. Clubs do run easier trials for all-comers, our local club runs these on summer evenings. For those people who want a ride on their twinshocks and pre-65's why not try these easier club trials? If the sections are too hard ask for a five and enjoy the ride round and the crack with the other riders. Throughout the whole history of trials only a slack handful of people have actually made a living out of riding a trials bike so everyone else is presumably there to some degree for enjoyment. If the thought of riding a pre-65 or twinshock bike in an easy general club trial is daunting what about observing and using your old bike to reach your section? Some clubs still run trials with a good long lap and a bike is a good way of reaching a remote section. When a struggling new rider reaches your section give them encouragement, those riders wanting to carry on help preserve the sport. When the flags are pulled up at the end of the trial crank up your old bike for a gallop back to the start.

Hi there, The Cycleserv TL250 manual details torque settings for all major engine and frame fasteners. Still readily available https://www.ebay.com/itm/HONDA-TL250-WORKSHOP-SERVICE-REPAIR-MANUAL-1975-/372906125272

Hi there, I have had a look in my 1987 RTL250 manual. Front spokes are sold as a set of spoke and nipple. The part numbers in my book are 446A0-KR9-000 and 446B0-KR9-000, the latter number appears to be the brake drum side. I have entered both parts into Lings Honda's part number search and this shows both spoke sets still available within three days at about £5 per spoke with nipple. Hope this helps.

Hi there, I once had a bike with an alloy tank secured with a circular section rubber band. When it failed I used the drive belt from a Hoover upright vacuum cleaner. They might not be available anymore but could be worth looking for.

Hi there, The rubber front sprocket cover is held on three pegs. Two of the pegs are part of the steel chain guide which is a close fit around the front sprocket. If you send me a PM with an e-mail contact a picture can be forwarded.

When checking the carburettor see if the float height is correct to the specification. There can be some different figures quoted but a careful check should find the right value for your carb. Another check worth doing would be look at the contact breaker points with the engine running. If there are a profusion of sparks the condenser might be on its way out. Hope this is of help.

With the gearbox in neutral the dot on the selector drum gear should align with the line stamped into the selector quadrant. Check the selector pawls are undamaged. Damage to the pawls is quite common. The slot the pawls slide in is not symmetrical. Some fine tuning of the selector mechanism is possible by slackening the M6 nut shown to the right of the selector drum gear in your picture then rotating the eccentric to achieve the best selection. Tighten the M6 nut each time after adjusting the eccentric. Hope this helps.

Hi there, You are right about the front end of the chain tubes being supported on the chain when it is fitted. There is only the "T" shaped bracket. The "T" shaped bracket can wear out where it pivots on the rear wheel spacer. If you have a chain tensioner fitted with the pad just behind the gearbox sprocket the front end of the chain tube should be clear of the pad. Replacement tubes we have bought lately fit both top and bottom runs of the chain, the bottom tube has to be shortened if a chain tensioner is used. Saw the excess off with a junior hacksaw.

I would agree with the previous reply. Before fitting a new 28 mm OKO to a Montesa Honda MH349 we found the float height needed resetting before use. The float height setting for the similar Keihin PWK carburettor is 19 mm from the float bowl gasket face to the highest point of the float. Check the 19 mm dimension with the tang of the float resting on the float needle tip without compressing the spring inside the float needle. This 19 mm dimension also works well with the OKO flat slide. To make checking the dimension easier start by holding the carburettor so the float bowl joint face is vertical with the float pivot pin at the top and horizontal. The float tang should be clear of the float needle, tilt the carburettor so the float moves towards the float needle. Measure the float height when the float tang just touches the needle tip. If the float height is out the adjustment is made by carefully bending the float tang. Also check there is no water in the float bowl. Hope this helps.

Hi there, Looking at the picture the bike looks very original. It appears to have the Akront fat bars and twistgrip which came with the bikes when they were new. The rear suspension units are also the same as fitted to my own 349 which was bought new in 1980. From memory they are Telesco Hydrabags. I cannot recall if my own bike came with a rear chain tensioner when new. I know there was one when I parted with the bike. The tensioner mounting boss is fitted to the end of one of the crankcase screws in place of the nut. From the picture I would suggest lowering the stanchions through the fork yokes until there is about 6 mm of the stanchion above the yoke. This should keep the steering quick enough without the front mudguard contacting the exhaust on full fork compression. The rear brake torque arm looks too long, standard should be about 220 mm between the centres of the holes. A new rear brake cable may be needed. Changing the torque arm should improve the action of the brake. If the kickstart lever is mounted too far forward the stop lug on the kickstart shaft can punch a hole through the flywheel housing. When the foot pedal is folded aim for it to be parallel to the cylinder fins or just pointing downwards. Gearing is good with a 10T gearbox sprocket and 40T on the rear wheel. Set the ignition timing at 3,0 mm BTDC for a good starting point, if the power is too fierce try retarding the ignition. The joint between the main exhaust and rear box is sealed with two "O" rings fitted in grooves in the rear box pipe. Hope the above helps.

Hi there, We have made a set of notes for setting up the 349 gearchange. Send a PM for details. Best regards.

Hi there, The late model 349 and MH349 definitely run better with the heavy standard rear box. I have a virtually unused WES back box somewhere in the loft. The standard rear box has a baffled first chamber and an absorption second chamber. The first chamber can be heavily blocked with carbon and oily gunge. With care the standard rear box can be cleaned and repacked without having to reweld it.

Hi there, Honda have provided a level plug to check the engine oil. With the engine cold sit the bike level on a paddock stand. Looking at the clutch case there should be a level screw tucked away below the bulge for the clutch just in front of the kickstart lever. Remove the oil filler cap from the front of the clutch case then remove the oil level plug. The oil level is correct when oil just begins to trickle out. The level plug is only M6 so the oil should run out slowly. If no oil runs out add new oil slowly through the filler hole until it runs out of the level plug hole. To avoid over filling let the oil run out until it stops. Check the sealing washer and refit the level plug screw, take care the thread in the case is easily stripped. Hope this helps.

Hi there, As Woody noted are you certain the ignition including spark plug is working and correctly timed? A leaking crankshaft seal or blocked exhaust can also have an effect. When no known settings are available the tuning guide published by Amal is very useful. http://amalcarb.co.uk/downloadfiles/amal/Mk1_Hints_and_Tips.pdf The five step tuning sequence does work providing the engine is actually working against a steady load and you know where the slide is at each stage. If in doubt start with a large main jet and work down from there in stages. The main jet does need to be done first. When adjusting the pilot air screw (and pilot jet size, when fitted) make sure the slide is not set too high. Hope this helps.