eiger

I must agree that my Gasser Pro is easier to work on in general than my previous Beta although the Beta was a doddle (slang term in Derbyshire for easy!) However I must object to any reference to drugs in this column. When we are working on our bikes we only consume Boddingtons bitter which is full of vitamins and minerals and fibre, as a bowel movement is always guaranteed the next morning. Usually around 5 am which annoys the wife as I don't wake up until 6 am!! Eiger.

I have ridden the SSDT a total of fifteen times since 1985 and started on a Fantic 300, then Fantic 301, Honda TLM240, Yam mono for a couple of years, Aprilia - air cooled 240. Progressing to the water cooled Aprilia then Gas Gas in 95 and 96, then TYZ for a few years and then more lately Montesa and Beta. And I haven't had a problem with any of them that hasn't been caused by rider error as, sadly, I am not known for my skill in the sections! An earlier post refers to the need to have time to carry out maintenance each day on the bike which is an important factor in increasing your chances in finishing the week. However their are machines that are more robust and can take more punishment from your average clubman and one of these is the Montesa and the other the TYZ. A TYZ in this years event completed its seventh SSDT and has only had a new clutch and a set of rings two years ago. We all have our favourites and my own bike is a Gas Gas Pro which is a great bike but I wouldn't use it in the SSDT as I don't think it could cope with its clumsy owner bashing it off every rock in every section for a full six days! Eiger.

Thanks for the replies. I've decided to go for the cheapest option for now and try endo kid's idea re the brake shoes. I enjoy riding the bike and have also enjoyed building it up but I hadn't expected it to cost quite so much. Sadly my much beloved (until recently!) wife has also discovered how much the bike stands me at and has insisted I spend the same on the kitchen! Their goes my idea for a 320 Majesty! Eiger.

I am looking to improve the front brake on our TY175 and am thinking of converting it to disc. I have been looking for a front end off a broken Gas Gas or similar. Have any of you chaps carried out such a mod and have you any advice? Thanks Eiger.

I appreciate that this site would prefer to leave Pre 65/SSDT results etc to be dealt with by the official site but I cannot find any results posted for the Pre 65 yet. Anyone out there who could point me in the right direction please? Thanks Eiger.

Thanks for the replies folks, sorry I've not been on sooner but the computer has not been well lately. To clarify, after an hour or so whether its in a trial or practising the bike begins misfiring and a couple of minutes later it cuts out. I then remove the plug to find a couple of whiskers of what appears to be carbon across the electrode, it also has the appearance of running slightly rich despite having altered the needle position, air screw etc, cleaning the plug makes no difference - its had it! So in goes a new plug and its fine again (but not for long). Also the bike seems to choke itself up a lot on small throttle openings and tends to 'fourstroke', I am going to renew the carb 'o' rings and the needle valve this week and see what happens, I will also fit a set of points and condenser I've got and hopefully we'll see an improvement. Thanks Eiger.

I'm currently using a ty175 with a WES exhaust fitted (no silencer box) For some reason it keeps destroying spark plugs (whiskering).So we have gone up to a hotter plug but still it destroys them it also doesn't run cleanly at the bottom end. Apparently the previous owner had the mains and big ends done and it was rebored to first oversize, however the piston currently fitted has square shaped skirt ports which i am told is the piston out of the yam dt as the ty pistons (which are apparently no longer available) have round skirt ports has anyboby got any knowledge of what plug or piston should be in the bike or any ideas asa to the problems we are experiencing many thanks Eiger

Ta for all the replies. As advised we're going to split and re-seal the airbox with a decent bonding cement backed up with plenty of silicone. And the float height is going to get some fine tuning as according to 'factory Kev' at Gas Gas U.K. (and Windlestone's recent post) this is usually the cause of poor starting when warm. I appreciate that all bikes have their own problems to a greater or lesser extent and the Gasser is no different, but its one of the most enjoyable bikes to ride I've ever had. The only downside is my 14 yr old lad is finding it a bit sharp yet so its going to have a head spacer fitted to take the 'edge' off it until he gets past his young novice status. Regards Eiger.

Windlestone, forgot to mention that the 02 Pro is a 200 model and has not caused us the slightest problem in relation to water/mud ingress into the air filter. Access to the element is from the side and the element is always bone dry. As for the 03 Pro we have the front mudflap, frame shield and thicker rubber seal aroung seat lid and the airbox was split and resealed when new 8 mths ago. I might split myself and try again. There is obviously something amiss as its so bad (despite much silicon and duct tape) we are thinking of getting rid for a Beta or a Sherco. The Gasser is a great bike to ride and starts well from cold but is a pig to start from warm sometimes. Thanks for all the tips folks. Eiger.

We have an 03 model 250 Pro and if its ridden in a wet or muddy trial the airbox starts to fill up with muddy water. We have used duct tape and applied silicon to try to help but it doesn't keep much out. I know they are known for this but our older 02 Pro had a different and much better airbox. Does anyone know of any worthwhile mods or if the 04 Pro has a better airbox and if it can be fitted to the 03? Thanks, Eiger.

A few years back I had a 270 Pinky, the logbook showed Mitsui Yamaha as being the original reg'd keeper and I was told it had been a works bike used by the late David page who was the son of Ernie Page who ran a motorcycle shop in Edinburgh. And if my 41 year old (and fading fast!) memory serves me correctly young David may have ridden this bike in a trial I rode in my younger days, I think it was the Mitchell and I remember David rocketing the Yam up a huge rock slab in a gulley as if it were a mere pebble. Tommy Alvahla (apologies if spelling is incorrect) rode the same trial on an Aprilia and made hard work of the same rock slab. David sadly passed away at a far too young age but I'm sure if any of you remember him, he was a belting lad with more bottle and ability than most of us would ever dream about possessing. I was preparing the bike for the SSDT in 2000 and took it to Birketts for a once over, Kev Seward (read very capable trials bike engineer) breathed on the bike for me and returned it to its former glory. I then went and sold the bike before the SSDT as I had been threatened with divorce. In hindsight I should have took the trials option as they never nag, they are always there for you, they don't burn your tea! (Ouch, its just a bit of fun love!) and they always respond favourably when you fancy throwing your leg over one!! Eiger.

Well if you are the same guy I met in Scotland a few years back (and I think you are!) it must have been one hell of a paper round. And I don't think that warrants a ban as its not abusive, sexist, racist, although I accept its probably a tad ageist!! Eiger.

Anyhill. I'll dig out the chainbreaker and see if I can post a picture of it. I can't see a problem in fabricating one but for what it cost (about a tenner) its probably not worth the hassle. I think Birketts do them as well. Regards Eiger.

I am in the process of preparing a Majesty 200 using an old TY175 as the donor to the Majesty frame, tank and other bits I have acquired. However I have just realised that the TY headset bearings are different to those that are required on the Majesty. The frame (I am reliably informed) is the Mini-Majesty type as the front downspars are straight and it uses the original bolt-on 'remote' TY footrests. Do any of you folks out there know the correct bearing numbers for the frame? I am getting desperate to finish the bike in time for its first outing on April 4th when I hope to be competing with an arch rival and a large sum of money is involved!! Eiger.

As Lineaway has stated the fibre plates absorb oil over a period of time and begin to swell so ideally you need to remove the clutch pack and measure with a vernier caliper. A digital version is about

We have both a 'Kliponoff' 3 - bike trailer, which is a galvanised and superbly engineered unit (apart from the fact it eats inner wheel bearings unless you strip and grease them once a month) and a 'Dave Cooper' bike rack. The rack is well made but not in the same league as the 'Kliponoff'. I also had the same problems as others seem to have had in getting hold of Dave Cooper and he had my money for a while before I got the rack. The quality of the welding and finish on the trailer is superb and I would say the Kliponoff is the better choice. The only reason we opted for Dave Cooper was I was told that Kliponoff were no longer in production, it would appear this info was wrong? Eiger.

My 14 yr old lad wears Hebo's, he's had them almost a year now and they are still going strong. I too have had a pair for 18 months and they lasted quite well but I found the leather became too soft, they don't come as high up the shin either (as some of the rivals don't) as perhaps my 6 month old Alpine Stars which I have found to be much more of a sturdy boot. As for their water resistant ability, out of all of the boots I have tried - Hebo, Gaerne, Novogar, Alpine Stars, Sidi, I have found them to be pretty much on a level. If you use a decent oil/wax such as 'Nikwax' they seem pretty much on a par. For all round protection and comfort I have found my Alpine Stars the best yet, the buckles are strong and rarely come undone and the leather is strong enough for protection but not too rigid for comfort. But as with all things in life others may feel differently. Eiger.

Carole Nash in Altrincham, Greater Manchester, 0800-298-5500 will insure trials bikes. When you contact them the staff always understand what type of bike you are talking about. They will also insure unregistered bikes for the couple of weeks needed to register the bike, all they require is the frame number. I've had my <mention of this company is not permitted on Trials Central. Please delete this post> bikes insured with them for a number of years now and found them to be very professional and competitive pricewise. Eiger.

Nigel Birkett (tel; 01229-716806) sells the Hebo pegs. I had a pair last year. Including the mounting brackets they were about

. I too rode witches burn one year with a cabletied on rear tyre and a pair of mini molegrips acting as a left footrest and I can promise you it did shift, witches burn that is - moved it back about 3 feet !!! I hit it flat out in third with my eyes shut tight and filled my kecks at the same time which thankfully provided the extra cushioning I needed as I landed on those two triangular shaped rocks on the right hand side after looping the bike! As for Ishy's chain breaker I have a smaller tool (as my wife will vouch for) but just as effective! Which is a block of cnc'd alloy with a 10 mm bolt with a machined end which I think I got from Wrighty's stand a few years back. A short link wire with spade terminals is also worth carrying to bridge the thermoswitch to keep the fan on constant if things get a bit warm. And keep a few quid to one side as the most important purchase of the week is that from the green welly shop at Tyndrum on the way home to buy the Missus summat nice in a vague attempt to redress the balance in brownie points! Eiger.

While we are talking about fork seals, to change the fork seals on our 2000 model TXT 200 was easy as all that was required was to unscrew the seal housings. We've just renewed our 2003 Pro fork seals and found it much more awkward. Anyone got any tips on the best way to do it? Eiger

In addition to Kinell's list I would add spare chain link, and a link wire made from short piece electrical cable with spade terminals at either end to bypass the thermo switch for the fan. Make sure you get plenty of practice so you can clean carb and air filter blindfolded with numb fingers, swearing a lot seems to help! Fatbikedude's advice on tools is wothy of note and keep a few quid with you in case there is time for a quick pint before the ferry arrives! Eiger.

Marky, my Gas Gas is registered and insured through Carole Nash at Altrincham tel: 0800 298 5500. They know about off road bikes and will also insure an unreg bike on the frame number for up to three weeks to allow time to get it registered. You can also have several machines on the same policy and their prices seem very competitive. Apparently they are also working on a policy system which should be available later this year where on one policy you will be able to cover one or more bikes as well as cars. Which they say will work out cheaper. Eiger.

Ishy, I also remember Rob Crawford having overheating problems, I can't remember the year but from memory I think a couple of TYZ's had similar problems, something to do with fan motors I think. But a mate of mine has ridden in 7 SSDT's on his TYZ without any problems and the bikes engine is still original apart from new rings and a new clutch. If I was contemplating a bike for Scotland my choice would start with Montesa first with the rest pretty much on an even keel in second. After saying that my current bike is a Gas Gas Pro and its like any bike you choose, you get to know what needs to be done and when. I need to tape up the airbox before it sees any mud and clean it out after every wet or muddy trial but although that can be a pain in the a***e I love riding the bike and am happy to accept it. As for the comments re the avitar my lad is 14 now and the walnut whip still causes havoc when he goes to the barbers! Eiger.

If you are contemplating riding the SSDT then from a clubmans perspective the choice of bike is important. I have competed (I use the term loosely!) in the Scottish a total of 15 times since 1985 and have finished every event and have ridden most makes. The fact is that some bikes need to be nursed round the week more so than others. The 'least maintainence' machines I've ridden were initially a Yam mono and later a Yam TYZ. To get an idea of reliability I would suggest that you look at a selection of clubman and their bikes as you generally find that these riders complete the event without much outside help. The better riders tend to have a van waiting for them every time they come off the moors and some riders will tell you that after a long, cold and wet piece of road work such as the run from Fort William to Chairlift when you arrive with your nads like small pebbles its amazing how some other riders look like they have just climbed out of a nice warm van!! Happy New Year. Eiger.