spenser

Do not use electric car charge points. The EM bikes are sold with a charger which is programmed to accurately and safely charger the battery on the bike. Electric cars have the charger built in to the car, with charge points being “dumb”, unable to provide the variables needed by the EM battery BMS. S

I had no issue with a low idle, but have been having high idle issues. I think it happens when I ride in wet conditions as the bike started to run very well when the rains stopped and it had a chance to dry out. Higher idle returned a couple of hours after riding again during rain showers, so thinking I need to go through the electrics. Another friend with a 2018 250 found a burnt/melted plug under the flywheel cover which was causing him various issues. Spencer

My apologies for the late reply. Found the map in this forum under a thread that was set up to share Vertigo maps.

I had a similar issue, but the bike was used (2020 Vertical 250), so I was unsure of the mapping; ran rough as well. I bought the Wificom device, tracked down the factory map (from helpful people here) then adjusted to suit which was just tweaking the lower ranges of throttle position and rpm to ensure proper running. By my feeling, the previous owner had run the bike too rich on the bottom, but the factory map kind of felt too lean given the plug colour and the fan being on 98% of the time during a ride when the ambient air was 20ish degrees C. I added a bit of fuel to the bottom as noted above, did nothing to the ignition curve, and it runs very well now. I also set up the second map for high altitude given that our riding areas locally range form 100 feet above sea level to 6000 feet. I have yet to try it above 3000 feet as the snow is still quite low here. spencer

I have been finding that the plug cap is the problem, never had to replace a single plug through the 5 or 6 TRRS bikes that I have owned. I think that the act of changing a plug helps with the connection, making it appear that the plug change has fixed the problem, when it will only reappear in the near future. s

Hi, After having gone through the whole forum (if memory serves), and exhausted other channels, I have two questions regarding a 2020 250 Vertical: 1: how does a person determine the correct fill level for the coolant? 2: does anyone have a chart of ambient temperature versus ohms resistance for the sensor mounted to the air box? Thanks for all replies S.

Previous finger height was about 17mm, but you may also find that there is a buildup of filings and other detritus behind the pressure plate and spring which is often a cause of a stiff clutch. Spencer

It may help if you could describe what it is that you want to improve. It is mineral oil, the gasket material will not effect the operation or feel of the clutch, but I have found that the best measure for the operation of the clutch is between the end of the fingers to the hub, which if memory serves should be around 17.5mm. Less than this, or more than this results in softer or harder lever feel, with the possibility of slipping or dragging. Spencer

I could be wrong about this, but I think that I have seen a picture of a Jotagas with a GasGas Pro kick start lever. Worth a try. S

Thanks.

I have been trying to access their site, which I did use earlier in the week, but for the last day or so the address appear to be no good. I have also been awaiting an email reply, but that has not come. Does anyone know the state of the company? Spencer

That is a hard no.

We have had more than one of these bikes crack the frames on the lower mounts under the engine; the frames are - as stated above - like butter, but also like glass. If the lower mount let go, the engine drops, which is what it looks like in your picture. S

This is a common occurrence, as I have it happen to several bikes, especially after they have been laid down on their left side for anything other than a short period of time. am guessing that when this happens, oil is plugging the vent passage through the shaft, and when this happens, and the motor runs it is acting like a pump, a very slow pump at that. I normally stop this by attaching a short length of fuel line onto the fitting where the gearbox vent line attaches, and blowing into the line to clear the oil. There will be resistance as you are pressurizing the gearbox, but a couple of good strong pushes of air into the line should clear the oil. Make sure you clear the factory breather line and reservoir prior to reattaching. I have also replaced the black factory line with a translucent one so that I can see if oil is making its way up the line, Spencer

I have that much of the problem stems from a deposit of some foreign material on the shaft, making it hard for the seal to work. Removing the shaft and scraping it clean with a fingernail, or 600 grit paper has cured most leaking water pump seals that I have found. If one were to replace the single water side seal without cleaning off the shaft, the leak will more than likely return shortly.. S.