alan bechard

I think I saw this episode on days of our lives or maybe it was Dallas.

Do I understand correctly the US will have a pro class on the same days as the WTC just on the junior line? <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Yes, you are correct Dabster. http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=7492 Next to the last entry (right now) on this thread.

Right hand crankcase above the oil drain screws is your breather, brass fitting sticking straight up. Many folks capped this for a while,,, that blows out the countershaft sprocket seal.... (or so I heard ) I fabricated an aluminum vent line that ran up into the headstock area on several. It would connect with a short length of tube on to the fitting, run up into the headstock area, then another short length of tubing to run a circle and point back down, this prevented water / condensation going direct into the gearbox. I will send you an e-mail describing some of this that may answer a couple more of your questions, I hope before you know them yourself.

I ran ours at 70/1 (my regular bike fuel) and never had a problem, but yes, I always had a little exhaust drool. One of the next mod's was to put a small drain tube on the bottom with a small plug or valve on it.

Front page tech section has the article written by Ron Milam, there is also a section in the Sherco manuals on the RYP site. 1. insure that there is slack in the adjuster rod. 2. pull the bleeder, and make sure that it is a pointed end, that there is not a ball end (with bearing in the caliper) remove ball if there is one, leave bleeder open 1/2 turn if it is the tapered type. 3. I would suggest removing the rear caliper from the axle / swingarm, and hanging it below with the bleeder being the lowest point. 4. Large syringe(cow type available from local farm store) with a piece of rubber 3/16 hose stuck on the end filled with brake fluid. and air bled off, hooked into the bleeder. Another syringe empty next to the resovoir with the top off to suck out extra fluid as it comes up. 5. Old brake shoes installed (to keep the new ones from getting soaked. 6. Here you will find some difference of opinion. I like to loosen the banjo on the caliper and push fluid through till no bubbles, then loosen the banjo on the master and do the same, then push more through to clear the line to the resovoir. Some folks do not want to brake the banjo's loose. For me, it has worked and been quicker in the long run. Some notes. Look for any high spots in the hose and try and get it straight. keep the bleeder low as you disconnect, as long as fluid is dribbling out, there is not air going in, if you turn it up, then put it back down, you have defeated yourself. If the fluid will not go through, 90% of the time, the actuating rod has been adjusted too far this blocks the return of the fluid, which wears out the brake shoes quick. The other 10% that ridiculously small hole in the Master cylinder has gotten blocked (it is so dang tiny you better have your good glasses on (I think it was a #80) Did I say that hole is small? I find it best to get the pucks out past where you want them to be and fully bled, then gently push them back in to where you can just barely get the caliper over the rotor. Send the kids away because a rear brake that fights you is one of the most frustrating things on a trials bike. They do make an air operated vacuum that holds about a quart, available from NAPA and Parts Unlimited (SBS brand) that I have been told works excellent, but bring about $200 smacks to the counter to walk away with one.

I own the 02 Sherco 125 that Ishy did the SSDT on. Still runs fine, I believe on the same plug as when I got it.

Just a thought in all this beating about. Have you pulled the flywheel cover and checked the crank bearings (endplay) otherwise known as grabbing the flywheel and seeing if you can wiggle it up and down? Pretty easy quick check and you may find bottom end bearings giving the seals fits. No matter how new the seal, it will not hold up if the bearing behind it is loose. 5 minute check. And yes, I have seen where a leaking left side seal on a Sherco made it run somewhat erraticly. Swapped the seal sitting in a field and it was fine. I would not use self tappers on that seal personally, it should just come out with a small seal pick. If you do go with self tappers, be extremely careful that you do not do more damage then you do good.

Ahhh, but how often did you change clutches in those machines. Learned long ago, always click them in gear (ANY BIKE) pointing in a safe direction as you may find yourself headed there quickly. Mid 70's Bultaco's come to mind. Dad hitting the back of the motorhome,,,, TWICE kind of drove the point home. What is happening is that your clutch plates are just "sticking" together quite well. Take two pieces of glass, and a drop of oil, and you will be amazaed at how attatched to each other they are. If you want to improve this situation I would suggest. Ride more often, the plates will not stick Change oil more often, fresh oil tends to help alleviate this problem Try changing brands / types of Oil, Maxxima give's me good results, but I do not know it's availabilty in your area. Rock back and forth in gear prior to starting Click into second pointed in a safe direction when you start and idle around pulling in and releasing the clutch in combination with the rear brake. If it seriously bothers you, you can bead blast the metal plates to roughen the surface (thereby eliminating that glass to glass demonstration) Lightly sand the metal plates Some shops offer knurling of the plates, I have no idea who would do that in your area, but I believe that B&J does it here. If it was mine, I would ride it and break it loose as I was warming up (that is what I do as a matter of fact) and On my son's, I am the first to engage the gears on start up to insure it does not run off on him. Good luck, hope you have fun with it.

Why imagine, I can send you the video for only $24.95, plus shipping and handling. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> But what does your girlfriend look like Craig I may look like this

Somehow there is humor here that I (We) have hijacked a thread from the initial point that Lane was on point on, and here is a guy complaining about it. Where are those lawnmower blades Gas Gas, not sure how long you have read along here, but there is some form of irony there that is just too funny.

Well, as this was directed squarely at me, MY point is this, and I thought it fairly obvious but if you have not read both books, maybe it is not. Get the two books. Open them up, page by page, Note that they are the same basic book. Now look at both front covers, you will notice there are 3 names, one of which is on both books and it is not Lane's OK, so now you have two books "Co" authored by the same guy, who also (go read lane's post and kudo's to Lane for repeating the story here) is the one that paid for wrote and made it happen, AFTER Lane backed out on HIS deal to help do the book. So in my opinion, if we want anyone's input as the greatest guy that blew the doors wide open on Trials we need to go get Len Weed. So pointed short answer as to "I guess I mean, what the bloody 'ell does that have to do with the contents of the book?" Go figure out who the "real" author is, and who brought this book out. I just get sick of folks (Lane) jumping up and down saying how they did this and they did that when the facts do not support it. As to your reference to Hannah showing up to a race, the difference is that Hannah has the sense and the decency not to do it. I have ridden in the past couple of years with some folks that have the ability to do exactly what you are saying, but they CHOSE to come in and compete in the SUPPORT classes and support the sport as a great champion does. The other thing I hate about these boards, is that when enough drivel gets posted repeatedly, it starts to be believed or an accepted "Fact" Very much like the Lane getting Banned remarks or Chris UK or whatever his last name was here being "banned". Fortunately or unfortunately if something gets said enough times, some people think it is true.

Ain't got no gas in it.........

Lane, you sure have a way with words man...... The scary part is that some will read this and believe it all..... Refresh my memory on the printing of your book again if you would and how you and Len were splitting the costs please. Thanks Man, your a bud. Al B

Two drops of mig welding right on the top, grab with Vice grips (I think you guys say Mole Grips) and pull it out. Course you got to have the mig welder, and put your ground somewhere so that it contacts, sometimes on a screw driver touching the side of the head of the screw. That is after you have goobered it up trying the other ways. One of my favorite stories. Main Rotor blade tip cap, two cobalt bits and a screw extractor broke off in one #10 cs screw.... yep, all stuck in one. I get the job and get a lecture about how I better not screw it up as this blade is worth 60K or so......... I replied that it was too late, all I would do is bring it back from already being screwed up. And yes, we got it.

Could you give us a hint and rough us up a little????? Secret squirrel humor.... Oh well, at least Doug will get it.

Oh god czjmp6,,,, I am rolling, you related to Sendero by chance?

It certainly does not put TIG out, and it just puts Mig out for practicality sake, but it can be done. I will bite however "why" If you are trying to match the chrome, the chrome in the heat effected area will be gone just outside of your stainless weld, so you will have a stainless weld. with two brown stripes to either side of it? If I understand what he is welding it is the tube in the back, so unless you get pretty tricky with the back gas, you are leaving yourself open for nitrogen contamination, and "sugar" that is the bane of most stainless jobs. And I did not say it well, but watch for the electronics was what I was refering too on the usual precautions, although, I seldom ever do anything other then insure that my ground is near my weld and well connected to avoid the arc looking for a different path. Bobby welds, F1, Nascar, EAA and various other "high tech" stuff, often at the side of the track, and seldom if ever do they disconnect anything. While there is always the potential to wipe out electronic components with the welder, I myself have never seen it happen. (which does not mean it does not happen) I cannot imagine the number of road race bikes that he has TIG'd on between races. Anyway, to each his own. If it was my shop, the Airbox and fuel tank would come off, and depending on my mood the .023 mig or the TIG with A-1 rod probably would come out, grind to remove chrome, and away we go. Probably a couple of spots and reassemble to make sure all bolt holes etc. lined up, then back apart and finish weld. Little wire brush action and silver spray paint. I think most folks would be hard pressed to tell it had been done.

Would that be the Scorpa long ride or the add on kits that are / have been available for the Sherco and the Montesa? My belief is that a lot of folks will make noise about this, but when it comes right too it, most, if any will not spend the money and actually buy the product.

Sounds an awful lot like a JCM too me..... I thought they went out of business? When you get it built Lane, I would love to ride it.

Weld away. Mig or TIG. (Actually I assume you guys call it that, maybe you have different names) Normal precautions and it will be fine.

Brendan, I think you will find that that bike that you describe has been done in several formats by various manufacturers with varying degree's of success, but I feel safe to say, it never truly "caught" on like wildfire. As Lane pointed out, the Alpina was the first, and it was never as big of seller as the Sherpa or the Frontera or Pursang. Then there was the Reflex (think of it what you will) Then there was / is the Pampera, which in it's earlier generations was based on the trials bike, with more seat etc as discussed (and I must add, as I had a 370 that the suspension was a severly limiting factor) somewhere along the way there, at least in my opinion, one of the GG people set me straight, it went from a Trials base, with some enduro features, to an enduro base, with some trials features. Beta made / makes? the Alp Suzuki had the Sherpa. I think that format has been tried multiple times, but each time in my opinion, it came up short in the marketplace. Even the extended range kits which have been sold for Sherco's, Montesa's and Scorpa's, in my opinion have not exactly flown off the manufacturers shelves. What we did with my dad's bikes, as his knees deteriorated (to the point he can no longer start bikes) and the modern bikes continued to drop in the middle, was to fashion him rear fenders out of steel, and on the montesa we added a support strut down to the footpeg. We then fabricated seat's that bridged the gap and allowed him to more comfortably sit on the rise of the fender. I think there are several folks out there that have taken this approach of modifying existing machinery to match the needs that you identify, but as for commercial success, I believe these machines get relegated to the back corners of bike shops.

I would be very hesitant to run that bike much, and would do some immediate tearing down to make certain I knew where the noise was exactly coming from. I lost a top end bearing in Dean's and kept running it trying to sort out exactly where it was. (after Ryan and others said stop and tear down) It made some funny noises as we leaned etc. I was very fortunate that I did not loose the Jug. I am not there too hear it, and could be miles off base, but I would urge you to errr on the side of caution, get an experienced hand to lend an ear for a real life check, or commence to tearing down to see what is causing the problem.

But Gawd Ishy, if I got the number of where I stood in my club ratings, the number would be so big it would take a billboard to show it.........

Just for reference, and I hope to add some clarity, but really, it will probably muddy the water further, The original quote that this thread was based on was by a UK rider whom many of us assumed was a US rider. Clean or bust, which club are you a member of? I'm in UK (North Yorkshire). For some reason I appear to have been assumed to be American! This was taken from the post http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=7042 It explains to me why that person has a very different outlook on trials then many of us in the US. I will also chime in too say, that it is my belief, that a well run, well thought out trial will have minimal lines at the sections. In my opinion, a seperate puncher to punch cards, short, clear, to the point sections with a difficulty level that does not cause constant crashes and hangs keeps riders moving through quickly. Long, exceptionally hard, crash inducing where people have to work to get the bike out of the section and lack of a puncher and the observer running back and forth trying to do both tasks, and not being able to do it from one vantage point are things that induce long waits at the sections. I have run multiple 75 rider events on a 40 acre piece of land with minimum waiting at the sections over the last couple of years. There was almost always one or two riders in line, and usually less then 5 at any particular point.