alan bechard

The burning out that I am familiar with involves a long uphill and lots of revs, if it is oil saturated, it will catch on fire, and as you continue feeding the fuel to it, will burn out any excess oil in it. This works a certain amount of time on teh oil saturated packing. After you park it, if you have done it well, the muffler will sit and smoke for quite a while. I may also add that if you have an 02 or newer, and do this, you should probably remove the heat shield from the exhuast as the heat sometimes has the ability to do this for you. You can also split the pipe, clean it out and repack it. I cannot believe the prices some people say that they get theirs welded back up for. I would not do them if I did not have the TIG welder sitting quitely in the corner. Even with what I consider to be the "right" equipment sitting idly in the shop, if someone came to me and wanted one done that wanted to pay for one, I would send them too their dealer to just buy a new one. It is a pretty fair amount of work and time and cleaning and welding. If you were paying me shop rate to do it, you would be far ahead to just buy a new one. If you do have the TIG and the TIME, it is fairly straight forward. I reccomend Silent sport packing so that it is easier to put up underneath the center tube then the woven or matt type packaging. Also if you have the 01 pipe, you can add in the dimples and nuts to mount the heat shield at this time. I cut along the weld seam and remove the outside half leaving the center tube attatched into the inside half. There has been several discussions here about maybe making one up with a trap door type deal, or some form of removable access panel. That would be really neat, but I have not figured out quite how to make one nice yet, that would give me good access to the internals. If you do decide to do it, let me know, I would appreciate any insight or stuff that I have missed.

Sorry, been lost in space... thought I had answered this one. I think Charlie is going to get it.

I know nothing of the value of bikes over there, But I do know, that it is very important to your satisfaction in riding (especially just starting out) to have a dependable, trustworthy and caring dealer near by to support you. And a lot of that rapport, starts with buying a bike from them. Hope you find something that suits your fancy.

Broken record Al Bechard here.... Go to www.rypusa.com Go to Sherco Go to manuals Start printing.....

Now that clears it up for me.

Uhhh ohhhhh, I guess that defines me pretty well! A little too much of this

I know I am not Ishy, but I have one on mine Mark, and have an extra one as well.

This is the only technique that I think was discovered by someone who was so p****d off with not being able to get the tyre seated using the non beader way they literally wanted to set the thing on fire. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Actually think it came, and the first time I ever saw it, (back in the early 80's and I was sure it had been around a long time before then) was with the truck tires. I sure was glad when they came up with Tiger tanks, or whatever you guys call them over there.

http://www.shercousa.com/pdfs/rim_band_rep...ment_manual.pdf If it is a normal bike shop, they will not be familiar with the way these work. It is a fairly unusual system that is only used in Trials bikes to the best of my knowledge. The reason I made the comment above about tightening the spokes, is that the spokes are not what seals the air into the tire. It is this rubber strip that seals the spokes off. And here, I will let you in on a little secret that I had to pay very dearly to learn, and caused me no end of greif. When you get to the part about putting the little spacer sleeve on the valve stem, throw the dang thing away.... Just be careful when you tighten up the valve stem not to overtighten it. Anyway, changing a Trials rear tire is one of the easiest ones to do. Have fun and learn a little bit about it as you go. Spend the money and buy some really nice tire irons, I still use the ones that I bought when I was about 16.

I had a very experienced observer comment too me recently that I must have trained my daugter quite well in that technique, He said that somehow she finageled her foot around to where it covered about 3' and he never thought she had done anything but pivot it....... Definetely one of the lessons to get across to the youngsters at an early age. A couple of weeks ago as Dean was falling into a stack of RR ties, it was almost comical to see him work to keep the foot on the "correct" side of the bike to keep from getting a 5. I think the Observer cut him some slack, but he snuck through with a 3.

Because I am just dying too know, and I have already been told I am incapable, just how does tightening up your spokes cause them too stop leaking.....????? Have you guys passing on this worldly advise actually done any of these? Or is this just a case of, my mind is made up, don't confuse me with facts?

And at the end of the day, that is really all that counts.

I do not mean to insult but guessing from your post, you may not be overly experienced with this. So, maybe start back a bit further. You should have a tubeless tire in the back, look at the valve stem, is it bolted in? Look at www.rypusa.com for the tech manuals and look at the pictures of changing a rear tire, does your stem look like that? What I do too find leaks on tires, whether it is a mower, trailer, truck or bike, is I have a spray bottle that has soap and water mixture in it. I think you guys call it Fairy liguid, we would call it Dawn, or Joy. The soap that is used to wash your dishes in the sink. Anyway, a good squirt of that in about a one quart or liter spray bottle and spray it all over your rear wheel wherever it could possibly leak, valve stem, bead area, spokes, tread, sidewalls. Pay particular attention to any area's that may have been repaired in the past (dog turds) Let this solution sit for a while and it will blow little bubbles and make a little white "cloud" where your leak is. Then, depending upon what is leaking, and if you are tubed or tubeless will determine your next course of action.

Hey Kinnel, On Dean's bikes, I would run them lower and lower till I would start to see the valve stem twist when he rode, then go back up a bit. On the Beta 50 we ran his about dead flat (but he was smaller) with that tire on there. On the little Sherco's we had to run a bit more air with their exceptionaly soft tires but the same principle, run them down as far as possible, wathcing for the valve stem to turn, and adding rim locks. Did not need to do front stuff until nose wheelies started. Les Mizel and I had a conversation about the full size tire pressures and our kids on them. You have to run a little air in them, or they get a flat spot from sitting, and you can see the kid riding kind of going wump, wump, wump as the flat spot is on the ground, but I think we are both down under a pound, but I doubt my gauge is very accurate at that point. As a side note, as with many things, it also depends an awful lot on the child. Where Christina was always gentle on the bikes, Dean is shall we say, a touch more aggressive. In short, make sure you have the lock nuts off the stems, then keep running the air down to about a pound watching for pinch flats, rim dings, and turning tubes.

Even done it with a pirelli and there hard compound. its not hard unless your incapable James <{POST_SNAPBACK}> That must be it, I am just incapable...... Sometimes I wonder why I bother.

Frank, I love your sign on name..... Knew who it was the minute I saw it. I think Ish is saying it has always done it from new, and has changed all the electrics, which makes me lean too it may be a manufacturing error in the case half itself. Ish is a dealer, not sure if he handles GG though.

Could the mounts for the ignition plate be drilled / marked wrong? The case side half. It should be a timing issue, and I would guess that something in the basic setup is wrong. can you see, read, tell when it triggers visually? Then check a known good one for comparison? Do an actual meausurment at the head type reading when it triggers? Do you still have my work e-mail?

Always done it or did this just start happening?

you dont need a beader if you have compressed air. with the compressed air you put more in than is coming out and eventually it goes pop on to the rim(with a very loud bang) James <{POST_SNAPBACK}> I cannot stand it, just how many of these have you done may I ask? Have you ever done a new michelin that has been sitting in a warehouse for a bit?

I will certainly second the beader, I cannot say how many times I wrestled with these things and straps, and tiger tanks, and other assorted deals. Once you get and use one, you will wonder why on earth you ever did without. But, if you do not have one, Put spacers (in America a can of beer is perfect) between the two beads and let set overnight, then when you pull the beer out, rapidly mount the tire prior to the beads coming back together.

www.rypusa.com go to Sherco, then go to manuals and there is a very nice illustrated manual on how to do it.

OK, I will bite, which Renthals have you used? http://www.renthal.com/applications.asp

Never mind,,,, Your right, I give, you can't do it, it is impossible, I can only ride with, (put in your favorite rider here) bars, and without thier bend of bars on my bike, I just cannot perform at my advanced level of riding...... Never mind.

I guess just because I am in that type of mood,, http://www.flyracing.com/products/handlebars/handlebars.htm Look at the bend chart tab there on the page that shows several different bends, sweeps, heights, then go find the one that works for your application. Renthal has it, TAG has it, and I am sure if I looked for others they could be found as well. If you must have "Trials Bend" go look at the specs on the trials bars, determine who's you like, and find a set with similar charachteristics.

No, but I bet if you measure the spacing of your bolts, and e-mail the company that I am sure you can find from that website, you could be positive. I seem to remember that they did, and that someone had used them, but I am not positive. I think also you could use the search feature, and you could find this discussion on the board in the past and different ways of getting there.