alan bechard

http://www.flyracing.com/products/handlebars/clamps.htm Then just choose your bars to compensate or compliment the additional height from the adapters. I am trying to show the universal clamp and pad kit for $46 not the billet triple tree.

Take an experienced friend with you that has no financial stake in the deal.

Wow, Phil is up on it. I do not see the exact picture, but here is Ryan on the rocks, and if you look behind him to the left side of the picture, you can see the log I tried to describe. http://www.trialsinc.org/pics/05sadd/imagepages/image21.htm There is a particularly terrible picture of me in there as well,,,,, Teach me to act stupid out there riding, and a couple of good ones of Dean.

Why yes he did. I do not think words can do it justice, and the boss is the keeper of the camera, not to mention that I would have probably dropped the thing as my jaw dropped open watching Ryan ride that thing. I would definetely say they are somewhat finicky starting, not sure what it is, spoke with Milt about his for a bit as well. I personally have not rode one yet, I believe wholeheartedly in Pate Keen's advice of don't ride anything that you are not willing to buy. I am afraid I will get jonesing for one and a new bike for me would definitely put a major strain on the marital bliss at the moment! Jumping on top of the log was a high point to me. Let me try and describe. Large log with a split trunk so it is a Y. One leg of the Y on the ground maybe 1.5 to 2' in Diameter. The other Y hanging up in the air, tilted about 20 degrees of too the side, the top of the end of it was hmmmm 4' in the air. Ryan rides up to it, puts his front wheel up on the end of the stob, then hops the back end over to square up to the log, there is a pile of RR ties behind him that his rear wheel is now almost against, so it is ??? 5.5' from the end of the stob. Sits there balanced and composes himself (I would have fallen a long time ago) and revs the beejeebus out of the thing, drops the clutch and jumps up on top of this stob sticking out, 4' in the air. rides down the length of the log and off. Then turns around, runs back up the log, jumps off the stob, that same 5.5' or so through the air and lands on top of the RR tie pile that is 5' tall. Just makes me cringe thinking about it. The results should be up on www.trialsinc.org and look at Ryan's scores and compare them to the "Champ" scores and relize that Ryan had to do a couple of extra splits, not to mention one special request "log removal" line for Dean. I guess I was using that "Team Trials" concept there! I need to sit down and do a report on the weekend I know... Might get too it, then again, might not I think Milt did pretty fair on his out there as well...

Go to your local bike shop who you work with, and ask. If you have established a good working relationship with these folks, that will be the best. www.rypusa.com has a lot of information as well on their online store. They do ship overseas if you are not able to find the parts locally, I am not sure where they are getting the lighter springs from. I lightened the spring for Dean's myself on the belt sander because I wanted it lighter than the black available from RYP. That and I am cheap and had a couple extra yellows and more time than money. It was not as nice as a surface ground spring, but it was good enough for what it was for. At some point I probably induced stress fatigue points in it, but as I did it, and it will break on us, I was not too worried about it. Go speak with your local bike shop and see what they have available.

As a courtesey to others you could just have left this under your other post on the same basic topic.... What would you like to adjust? There are some adjustments available on the Sherco suspensions, preload, strength of spring, weight of oil, air bleeders, air pressures that most Sherco riders find satisfactory to their needs. I know RYP had rear shocks with adjustable dampening available as aftermarket pieces. I know that some of the factory bikes had the dog bone mounts extended to change leverage points, or ratios. I know some folks have changed delta links to change the ratio's / feel of the back end. I know that using / changing the through the various lengths of swingarms that are avialable can provide very different feels to the suspension. I believe that most trials bikes use the same diameter fork tubes (or triple trees at least) so I guess it would be plausible though I seriously doubt practical to change the front end over. I know on the MX bikes a wide variety of valving etc. is done to the front forks, and I am sure with enough money that technology can be applied to the Sherco forks. But on a more serious note, just taking a Swag, I would bet your money would be best spent insuring that the existing Sherco suspension is set up spot on with fresh oils, springs, bearing's and grease, and if you have money left over, use it to buy petrol to practice on. Just my 2 cents.

We put the lighter spring on my Daughters 125 as well as Ben's 125, then I swithced the front end oil to 2.5 on Christina's to keep everything as "balanced" as possible. Considered going to the fully adjustable shock, but the current set up really works pretty well so have just left it alone. Of course the weekend after I set the suspension up for my daughter from how Ishy had it, I ended up riding the bike, and I may be just a "tad" bit heavier than she is......

Call Geico and ask. I imagine they are required to tell you. There are a lot of information gathering services out there that you can buy mailing lists from. We looked into several that we could purchase for the lawncare business to do targeted mailings, with the ability of computers to store so much information and sort and catogorize it, it was amazing too me how specific we could request the lists to be.

Do you guys use the Euro? Would it be easier to send Euro's to Germany? My daughter is there and all young women like having spending money I will look tonight and see what I have, can find.

It would probably be easiest for me to make up the brake pedal, mount, cables etc, and for you too have someone there locally modify the rear brake mounting / backing plate. Do you have access (or your friend) too SAE taps? If I remember correctly it is a 5/16 X 24 that you will need to thread the plate for the cable end that I use. I could also use something like the stock Sherco 50 adjusters and thread them metric if you wanted???

It would help if you would fill in your profile where you are at. If you want to run both lever and foot (what I reccomend) then you need to modify the brake backing plate. It is pretty easy, any fairly competent welder can do it for you, but I am guessing that you are in England so it would not be practical for me to modify that part (I need the brake hub itself to modify it) Anyway, let me look in my box of parts and see what I have and see if I can make one up for you. $ can be figured out. I will bet that your shock is on the lightest setting. Put a small zip tie around the shaft and see if he is bottoming it. I never had a clutch problem with any of ours (01, 03 and 04) it runs the 2 shoe stock polini clutch. These are often available as take off units from the polini MX guys. In the world of 50cc MX guys clutches are a world unto themselves. My 2 cents would be too try a couple of oil changes with a couple of different brands of oils and see what comes up. Then just change out the unit if it still is not performing satisfactorily. There are springs, and shoes and on and on but I would just change the unit out as an entity. On the 03 the swingarm should be gray and there should be gussets in the front corners of the swingarm. trialsalan at bellsouth.net

I cannot tell you how to loosen this shock up, but I do believe that Ryan has a fully adjustable one available. I do not see it on the website, but I am sure you could get the straight scoop by e-mailing him directly. ryan AT rypusa.com Or, post the question on his BB under rypusa.com and he answers as well as many of the other Sherco folks.

Make sure that the vent is open on the case, I made up some tubes that ran across the head and up into the headstock area so that it would be vented yet not let any contamination in. Change oil often, use a squeeze ketchup bottle with a pointy tip marked at 350cc. The MX guys change thiers every Moto. It is real easy with the right bottle. Clean the air filter religiously. Clean it well and oil with a foam filter aerosol and let dry. Hold the petcock while turning the petcock lever. Use 2 hands. (any Sherco) Depending on your child (is he riding serious and doing obstacles) Insure that you have the heavy duty skidplate from RYP. I also made up formed rubber blocks to fill the void between the bottom of the engine and the skidplate to distribute the force of the impacts. Keep your brakes immaculate and the pivots and cables lubed. I switched to a domino set of levers that were take offs from the Polini MX bikes and they have an improved leverage ratio. Get the tubes from RYP for this bike. If you have a flat, take the old tube, cut off the valve stem, slit it open along the inside diameter and use it too wrap the new tube, or if you will as a lining for the tire. A Sherco rimlock works well in the rear, I run two. If you decide you want too only run 1 it does not go opposite the stem, it goes 1/3 the way around the rim. Buy the cheapest all rubber rim lock that you can find and shape it down to fit the front rim. Depending on the year, watch your swingarm. If you have the 01 / 02 it should be gusseted as the 03 and later are. Any welding shop can do this quickly and fairly inexpensively. Adjust the preload on the rear shock to riding ability and childs weight. (yes it does have 3 levels of adjustment, call me with the shock in hand if you do not see them) As the child improves to the top end of the abilities of this bike, cut off and weld back on centered the upper shock eye. I marked my wheel spacers L and R so that when I dropped them in the woods trying to do a quick tire change, it was easy to sort out what went where. Make some tire irons from cheap blade screw drivers by curving the tips over and rounding everything with a file so it is very smooth and small. You will need them on the rear tire. The front goes on with your hands. If you replace plastic, use 03 or newer plastics. These are great bikes and have provided us many, many hours of fun together. The things I am pointing out here come from pushing these bikes quite hard with a good rider.

I have made several of these up, and there are others out there as well. Here is a picture of the first one that I made. The later "Production" units were cleaner and finished better but the design has been the same. You need to take your two cables (brake and throttle) and place them in a 3" long piece of 3/8" fuel line split down one side and ty-wrapped around the cable's where the cables sit on top of the head. It is very important that you do this immediately. Nothing will scare a kid worse than a stuck throttle and no brakes. Somewhere I have a picture but we are taking some this weekend as well. I am sending one of my son's old bikes over to Germany for my God son. Anyway, ask away, I can make them up as a kit ($75) or will provide you the information to build your own for free. I am not the quickest at getting things done, and it comes behind maintaining a slew of lawncare equipment that pays our bills. I always liked that Dean was able to use both the Hand and foot for the rear if something was going wrong. He was also able to adapt to clutch use with a minimum of trouble. Hmm, will try and get you a picture that fits. Coming later I guess.

What the heck are Boddingtons? For you Kinnel, just bring a little thirst, we may be able to find something that if it don't kill you, will make you a bit stronger....... And I will bring some apple juice for Andy.....

I run the ARC levers on Dean's (he is 9) because it gives me widely improved adjustability. Right now there is one on his front brake, and when the clutch lever brakes, he will have one on there as well. https://secure.rypusa.com/catpage.cfm?cat_selected=133 Readilly available through RYP.

I guess I was thinking of riders of age to compete in the Youth Nationals. I am not positive, but I believe that Stevie is over that age. If I remember right, he was minding for Will. Guess it really boils down to what is a "Youth"

Throwing out some general rules here, but usually, if a bottom end oil is intended for two strokes they will grade it with a different system than a 4 stroke. Soooo, when you go pick up a bottle of two stroke lower unit oil (clutch) it will say something like 75 wt. or 80 Wt. And if you are picking up an oil for a 4 stroke, it will be speced with the "standard"(SAE) designation of 10W40 or 10W30 or so. As I am looking to help by brother in Law in Germany find the right lubricants for his bikes, I am stumbling into that the European's are flagging all their transmission type oils with the SAE grades Ie 10W40 or so... SOOOOOOO, my question is, On the bottle of oil that you guys are using in the lower unit / transmission / clutch of your two stroke machine, what spec does it say 10W40 or 10W30 or such or 75wt or 85wt or such??? Thanks.

Looking to make contact with readers who are located in Germany. Think I have seen a handful on here. My daughter is currently living there, and my brother in law is riding more, and looking for others to link with in the Trials community in Germany. Anyway, post here if you would or e-mail me at trialsalan AT bellsouth dot net

Just my 2 cents or phenning or whatever. Pence I guess.... Anyway, as a guy who welds things upon occasion, it seems that there is a problem there, why buy a new one that was likely welded by the same guy and would have the same problem. If you use some form of epoxy, Ardalite, etc. etc. it can wreak havoc on the poor guy trying to weld it and fix it right later. Sometimes it is tough to get that cleaned out so it does not contaminate the weld.

I think Trials TV had some... There was about 5 minutes on Speedvision that my dad has on DVD that he made for me, but I do not have a way to record it. The best thing though, is to get your kids out with others and riding. That is one of the great things about the Youth Nationals, is the ability for the kids to interact with others of thier own age, you should see the progression that many of them make. Are there groups close to where you guys are? Edit note, it makes it easier if you fill out your profile so that we know whereabouts you are located.

At the moment judging from these results, I would have to say Pat Smage probably is king of the hill, but that is a one weekend snapshot and may not be a true representation..... Time will tell. I guess in some ways, it boils down to how you determine who is "best" but I would say those two (Smage and Ibsen) would have to be at the peak and are competing in the Expert National class together. http://www.trialscentral.com/cms/showartic...?articleID=1487

what is RFME?

http://setrialsriders.org/groupee/forums/a...8411#8061028411 As you were saying Craig, others are interested as well.

I did read that, glad to hear he is out and I am guessing better. You are just always so subdued and quiet that it supprised me to see this post..... Maybe this is an area that the new trials organisation USMTA will play up to assist in promoting the sport within the US. Maybe we can get some folks that are on here agreeing that that is a poor show, to pitch in and write 2 articles a year about trials and submit them to the various places that publish them to widen our scope. (Balls in your court Mickey) Maybe we need to get 10 people to agree to write reports for events and send them into the UMTA who could then send them out to the other publicity outlets. I am not sure who is doing the publicity coordinator slot for UMTA, but I bet you would be a prime candidate Craig if you would be willing to do it. Unfortunately, as you are well aware, there are many folks that will jump up and down about how something should be done and the room gets mighty quiet when you ask "Who is going to do it?"