alan bechard

It may or may not be relevant, but something to look for. I had one that drove me nuts, and several other mechanics as well. It was a mid 90's Montesa, but most are pretty much the same. I took the seat / fender off for something, and wiggling, jiggling things I obviously should not have, I ended up killing the brake. I danced, waved chicken bones and had a seance trying to figure out what had happened, and why I could not get it going. Finally figured out that the little plastic elbow, that feeds fluid into the master, really was not truly round. The rubber piece that it sits into had taken its slightly oval shape from it being there 5 years or so untouched, and when I wiggled it, it did not ever, seat back itno the hole. The other real complication is that these things move so little volume of fluid, that the tiniest problem just gets magnified. Good that you got it going. Be careful as you adjust up your rod, that you do not put it up too far, and block the return port of the master.

Yes, from what I have found, medals are the least expensive. I highly reccomend www.dorisbros.com Jason Doris. Professional, fast, timely, inexpensive, no BS. I think I was paying about $20 for a set of 3 (1st, 2nd, 3rd) from 12" to 24" with our logo screen printed onto the medallion for the Youth Awards last year.

I guess you lost me Stuart, That is where they start at as best I can see, And actually, I think my medallions are coming out slightly cheaper, but that still puts about $600 out of pocket for my event and prepping for the Camelot Series. I have not figured out the engraving part of the equation quite yet though.

You need to narrow down your question some to get good answers. Personally, as a rider and a promoter, I like to give and recieve awards that are special and that I like to show off. Bill Catogni's Florida awards, The HTC metal cut out guys, and honestly, my "first Rock" from Pigeon Forge are pretty high, a pewter mug from the German Nationals are high. Count on at least $3 per award, and the costs escalate quickly. I am currently having medallions made (cast) for my event. I had photo's taken and frames laser burned for it last year. Really boils down to how much you want to spend, and how important it is for you. And how many you buy often has a large impact as well. Could you refine your parameters just a bit.

I guess I am a little lost as to why the petrol will penetrate. Here, there is a product available called Kreem (it can be seen on the web) not sure if it is available there or not. I believe it is also rated for Fiberglass tanks but I would have to verify that. My experience has been that at some point, it starts to cause more problems than it fixes. A well done, multiple layer, properly faired in fiberglass patch, will restore a standard fiberglass tank to a like new condition, and if properly painted or gel coated, will be un noticable. You could always take one of the two part epoxy putty sticks and gob it over the hole, and that would work, but not as well and would certainly be more noticable.

If you are trying to back bleed the brakes, and it is not going back, up into the resovoir, check to make sure that your bleeder does not use a check ball under the bleed screw, (I do not believe that it does) Then I suspect that you have the pedal push rod adjusted out too far and it is blocking the return port in the master. Screw it in, or just pull it off too bleed. Sounds too me as though the master is hanging a little high sometimes and not dropping all the way down to the circlip. (based on you saying that sometimes it would and sometimes it would not work.) It may be high treason, but there is an article on brake bleeding on the front page of this site, as well as a different article with pictures etc. on www.rypusa.com

Standard fiberglass resin and repair procedures should be fine. What bike has a glass tank?

Hmmm, that sleeve right through should just slide out, but I have a feeling if it has broken the delta link, there may be more problems. http://www.rypusa.com/sherco/manuals/Sherc...ation_Guide.pdf This should give you some pictures to look at around the dog bones and such. I hope you get it sorted. Let me know if you need specifics, I can take pictures or whatever, or explain in more detail if I was sure what you were working. I think Wayne's book pretty much has it all nailed though.

It was suggested to me by a friend that I trust who went from the Hydraulic units to the Avids that I would be better off. More adjustments, same perches and levers that I am already using, straight forward, bulletproof and cheap. Gaby, do the down hill hubs have to sit "into" a fork? the one I found (being repaired at the local shop) had little sleeves sticking out the side that I think is where you mounted it??? I think my axle is about 12mm, but I need to measure it. I want a high quality, 20" rim, like the Apex I think it uses now, (or better) laced to a disc ready (standard ISO mount) hub with as thick of spokes as possible. I need for the axle through bolt to be 12MM or larger (to be confirmed prior to order) I was finding some of the Avids on E-bay for about $100 pair new. I also think with the Avids or whatever I decide, that really, the trick is to get the fork modified up to accept the "standard" mount and the disc hub laced to the 20" wheel and accepting the axle and everything spaced. If I decide to go hydraulic later, it should be easy. Input is appreciated.

I think it is Gaby that works in the bicycle shop???? Really anyone that can help would be great. I am going to mount a disc front brake on Dean's Sherco 50. I believe that I want AVID cable operated discs, and a down hill 20mm "thru hub" I think it is called laced to a 20" wheel. Gaby, can you help me do this cheaply? Yes, I am cheap. Or anyone else, or questions, suggestions or comments appreciated. Thanks.

I seem to remember more than one TY350 with a Boost bottle on it. I thought they came off MX machines to give extra performance etc?

14 Feb 04 Got Dean's new bike last Saturday and finally got my yes I am anal retentive and like things the way I like them, modifications done to it so that he can ride with us again. As always, it was great to get up to RYP and fondle, I mean handle all the bike stuff there. Had an in depth discussion with B about mid size bikes, and the what not and decided that I probably just needed to sit out Indy this weekend. So, even though I am wondering if it was the right thing to do, I am sitting out the dealer show this year, and taking care of some of the stuff here. Got the Bush hog today, just need to do a PDI and prep on it so that we can mow the fields. Still have not finished the trailer brakes. Looks like a good group at 9am tomorrow at the Trial Site. We are going to try some of the area's that we normally do not ride, new sections etc. Will probably also set some of the ribbons. I had some confusion with J, he thought we were riding his place in the morning, and I was thinking the afternoon or Monday Am. Hopefully that is straight. We still need to move some logs into place and just simply have a ton of work to do, but there should be a great gang of guys out there tomorrow. With 10 guys or so riding you can beat some lines in in a hurry! Not to mention we get to see a new Scorpa flying through the air! Hopefully it does not snow a bunch! Anyone in the area feel free to contact me or just come on out. My contact information is on the STRA BB at www.setrialsriders.org If you ever need to reach me.

At Cartersville last month the same thing was happening. The rednecks took their fenders off when they saw the scenario. I saw many folks on the ground because of locked tires. The weirdest for me was that my boots were getting pushed off the pegs from the muck peeling off the rear down the singarm and being forced out. Add a little clearance as suggested and it should not be a problem, or ride front wheel light.

Kevin, if you are referring to the Cartersville pictures on the STRA website I can send you them on disc if you would like. Just let me know off line.

Glad you got it sorted out Gavin.

Yes Gavin, it does make sense, but not sence to you I guess. Maybe my dialect is a touch different then yours. It is a common saying that means,,,,,,,, Never mind, I just remembered an old saying, never argue with????? I hope you do not break your bike.

To be honest Gavin, I have never opeded an engine either. In the, for what it is worth column, it would serve you well to hang around a bit with someone that is experienced in mechanics. You never know what you may learn.

Ron Milam, STRA club president, and regular reader of this column wrote them. Ask and I bet he will write some more. I do know that he is WFO at work at the moment though.

I guess you are getting a great deal if you are getting 2 bearings and seals for $13. I am certain that they are the same quality. How does that work Sounds good to me.

4 Feb, We went out Saturday but everything was frozen solid. No dirt work could be done. And there is a lot too do. Spent about 1.5 hours clearing out pushed down trees to open the trails back up into the woods. That is good to go again. It gives us plenty of logs to work with now, we just have to cut them. Really nervous about parking. We are going to work hard to get the grass to take in time for the event, but it will be sketchy at best. Went out Sunday and rode. It was beautiful. Did not fool with much for the event, just out relaxing with the buds. Hopefully might get in a bit of tractor work this weekend. Picking up my bush hog tomorrow, so I can get that stuff beat down a couple of times prior to the event. Needs several hours of box blade work, and quite a bit of seeding. May end up needing to sit out the INDY bike show to get some work done around the house and the trial. Just have to pare down obligations to meet available time and resources.

Todays exchange rates, 33.48 pounds. How much do you pay at the bearing house?

Thoroughly clean and repack the exhaust and replace plug. It was amazing what this did for Doug's bike, which had symptoms much like yours.

Looks like about $23.80 for each bearing and $7.35 for each seal.

I should probably let it pass, but as you are reading this, I will not. While you could run around your dealer and get some of the parts from a bearing house or such, remember that when you are trying to get an explanation of how to do it. Or when your Dealer is no longer there to support you. I have done it myself, and will do it again in the future I am sure. But a good dealer is well worth the extra couple of pounds or bucks or whatever so that you get one stop shopping and the expert advice and experience that goes with it. The soap box is getting slippery so I will get off it now.

29 Jan 04 The doziers are gone and they have done what they needed to do. There was money available already for "cleanup" of the area, which I got the call today included grass seeds etc. So, we are going out Saturday with the tractor, box blade, seed spreader and try and get some grass started back in the fields so we do not end up with big slime fields come event time. 50 lb bags of seed are about $50 so that was a welcome relief. Looks like Saturday will be nice, so will work on the property then. My bike is in a bunch of little pieces on the shop floor at the moment, and have yet to pick up Dean's new one, so will just go out with the tractor, and bring Christina's and have her ride with D & B some to improve her skills. If you are in the area and want to ride Saturday, come on out. I could also use a hand doing some of the tractor work and positioning.