alan bechard

Not sure where to go with this, but will try at face value. Yes, you have everything. Now comes the fun part of getting it together, NO, there is no "EASY" way. It is supposed to swing freely up and down, well, actually the spring should hold it up against the swingarm with no chain in place. After you install it with the spring holding it in place against the swingarm, then put the chain through it, as you tighten and loosen the chain, the chain will want to go in a straight line, which will pull the chain tensioner down away from the rear swingarm. I use the rule of thumb,,, that with a properly tensioned chain, you should just be able to insert your thumb between the top of the tensioner rubbing block and the swingarm. The chain tension is adjusted by the two snails at mounted on the rear axle. In Gainsville, I cannot remember the guys name, I want to say Hamm,, but not positive, but he runs / owns a Lawncare equipment shop over on the east side of town. I think it is Tony Hamm,,,,, man, I may be way off here, anyway, see if you can reach him and run by with your bike. If you are being straight up, after you see how this work you will have a Homer Simpson moment... And yes, it is a pain to get that tensioner back on........

like you should get another bike..

OUCH! Was that an RPG that just went by???????????????????? I think there is a need for a specific place for the less then serious banter on the US side.... How bout the Sunday Comics? The funny Papers.....

Urban legends fly real well.....

Stifeled laughter my butt,,,, rolling on the floor with Hanna thinking she is going to have to call the paramedics is more like it! But man, that observor on that section was sure doing a GREAT job... (and looked sharp too for such a big guy) Thanks Dave, you brightened my day!

RYP has them and ships to the UK.

I just got to know, Jamie, how old are you? I believe that is the same lady that is featured on one of the Unicycle video's. I think it was Universe 2. She is just flat out incredible.

Your young yet Jamie, it will change...

They have to do the "rising rate" within the shock on the linkless.

Throw the little aluminum spacer out from the valve stem, and be very gentle when you tighten the stem in.

Brian Robison did a limited run last year, maybe he will chime in here again and be willing to do it.

Well, I HATE it when people are selling things and it will be fine with a little ADJUSTMENT,,,, then make the darn adjustment and I will buy it..... If it is that darn simple, he would have done it already. At that point, the question comes down too me of what will the guy let me do / take apart and look at, and how much work am I willing to do on a bike that is not mine, and if I find something ugly, I am just going to hand back to him. I would just ask him to pull the right cover if I was concerned, and peer around inside. If he was unwilling, I would look for another bike. Seems to me that he would want to sort it out anyway. I would expect to pay $20 to look for the AF, Oil and gasket, but I would want it done while I was standing there (actually I would want to do it myself, but I am guessing that this lady is not a mechanic) and see what the oil, AF, and what not looked like. Could be something real minor making a heck of a racket in there, or could be something ready to grenade. The only way I know to really tell though is to take a look. And I would love to know what adjustment you can make to get rid of a noise...... Maybe riding the bike further away. Good luck on the hunt, I have done real well with rough bikes, but many just buy into troubles that they cannot handle. My personal bike has a worn out shifter fork, I know it, it is actually pretty easy to change, a new one is in my trailer, but I guess I am just lazy, but if I went to sell the bike, I would put it in before selling so that the buyer would get a ready to ride bike.

I am guessing you are changing the front master, and you are leaving the hose attached to the caliper? disconnect the hose from the caliper, screw it into the master, then reinstal the banjo on the caliper. Then Bleed.

It is normally something with them with the basket and gears on the back. All of them that I have heard make more noise then the others, but Have not seen them actually fail. Saw one with the basket that had slack in the rivets, you could work the gear against the basket. Made noise, but was still running fine last weekend. You have to decide what is "too" bad for your comfort level. This your's, you looking to buy or are you a shop?

Ok, I was just wondering how you guys do it if polarity did not matter. But I think what you meant was in this instance.

Atom do you guys not use GFCI's?

If the blades are identical (you would see it easily no calipers needed) then just hook one blade to return, one to hot and you will have to supply a ground (earth) When we do 220 here, we have two 110 hot legs. (why I asked) I think Germany did 220 on a hot leg and a return as well.

Small prong is the hot. http://www.acmehowto.com/howto/homemainten...ical/outlet.php

In the UK are you guys using 220 I imagine? And your 3 wires are a hot, a return and a ground is that correct? The two wires on the US are your hot and your return (sometimes called neuteral) I would bet it is double insulated so it is not running a seperate ground One of the blades on the US plug will be larger then the other, cannot for the life of me remember at the moment if the larger is the hot or the neuteral, will find it in a second. So, assuming that You are running 220 on one leg, and neuteral on the other and ground (earth) on the third You will need to add an additional chassis ground into your charger out to your plug. Let me go find if the hot is the bigger or smaller blade.

rotflmao OMG You aint Right,,,,, Well, maybe you are...

Dixie, I would think we are substantially smaller community then you guys, and we are spread out over a tremendously larger area. I have never ridden a road trials in the US, although I did many times in Germany, our loops have nothing on them (except maybe a TTC loop in 02 ) It was a great shock to me when I got to Germany and found I had to road register my bike to compete in the events, but going through Motorcycle driving school on a TY 350 was definetely an interesting experience It was one of those interesting times in a Young person's life when you run across the old staid teacher who is teaching motorcycle safety (and did not know what a trials bike was) and she said, well, if you think you are a good rider, try doing this "tight" slalom course..... If you want to ride more, what you have is definetely best. Trials is great because of the area's that you can operate in and still have a great time. Not sure that your "normal" (what is normal after all) are that much different then ours, just attendance and volume strike me as the biggest difference and the amount we travel to get too one. I do not know if you guys use the same Acres that we do, but we have held a trial at our place on about 40 acres for several years, I believe there was a national last year on about 40, but at the same time I believe that TTC is somewhere around 650 + (and I swear Dan runs us across every one of them on occasion!)

Lane, every now and then I think to myself,,, Now Alan, that Lane guy is not really as bad as you think................ Then you post and remove all doubt...

OTF, you may or may not believe this, but it is a 30 minute drive for me to where we hold our event. And that is in the Clarksville City limits, and I live in the Clarksville City limits.

Oh, and as a basic answer to the main question It spaces the riders out to help ease traffic jams at the sections.

Man, I am glad I did not go out there, now that remark in connection with Vegas