dr nick

My 98 Techno rear fender is the same as the 95 then. It has snapped straight across ,just behind the seat.I have found that using small cable/zip ties dont hold it on when sumping out(which I regularly do) and they just snap off The best thing I have found is Gaffer/duct tape,as long as it is a similar colour to the fender (I use grey on mine and it is a very good colour match).I just put a double layer either side,(where the zip/cable ties usually go) and another double layer over the top of the fender ,just behind the seat (where mine is snapped),Then put the seat back on to partly cover it But it would depend on where the break is. Duct tape is quite strong and flexible enough (but I would use a double layer)and very sticky and is readily available to be able to keep changing it Regards N

I`m going to try ATF in my 98 Techno. Tried cleaning the plates and fibres and changing the oil numerous times. Its a little better ,but just need to find out for myself if the ATF works .Its quite a bit cheaper than the

Because I dont have the room to store a trailer I needed a bike rack.I was given a brand new one by a bloke I know...but ...it didnt have the bracket that attaches to the towing hitch(left it on his car when he sold it).I had a mate make the bracket up for me (cost

You want bigger logs???? Eat more fibre.... sorry ...couldnt resist regards N

Quite a long explanation..but bare with me. When I was out riding yesterday ,after about 15-20 mins my bike started to sound really rough .At first I thought it may have been that the fan wasnt running and the bike was overheating,but the fan was on. The engine was acting just like it does when the fan doesnt kick in on its own(which happens now and again) so I expected coolant to have come out the top of the expansion tank cap as it boiled over.But no coolant was visable and fan was running so I hit the kill button. after a few minutes ,waiting for it to cool ,I started the bike up ...sounded ok....flicked the fan blade...didnt move..so assumed it was cos it had cooled down enough not to need it.After a few minutes of riding and of checking the fan ,it came on on its own .But after 15-20 minutes of very moderate riding again ...the same symptoms again...just like it was boiling over,but no coolant from the cap. I hit the kill button again and waited for it to cool down before riding back to the car to go home. Bit hard to explain the noise I was hearing....but...it sounded like a perfect 250 two stroke engine one minute....then quite quickly ...it sounded like a bag of spanners...knocking and generally sounding terrible .....just about the time it takes to boil the engine without the fan on. When I checked it at home I emptied the coolant out to see how much I had in it,as I couldnt see any visable in the Ex` tank(I always check visually on the expansion tank before going out riding), I found that it had lost about 100mls of fluid but no sign of a leak from anywhere.I am going with the idea of a blown gasket causing the coolant loss (from 720 mls approx to 600mls). But would losing 100 mls cause a problem like overheating so quickly ????. What other checks can I do before stripping the cylinder off??? BTW..I`ve checked that the water pump works Hope someone can enlighten me Thanks in advance Regards N

I was going to try ATF after still suffering with drag . I cleaned the plates and fibres up ..changed the oil numerous times. but I have been told ,from the colour of the oil coming out (dark brown and a little bit of a smell to it) that I need a new clutch....anyone confirm this ??? Regards N

Thanks Charlie I always thought all oil was thinner after heating it up,no matter what wt it was. Regards N

Had a good days riding yesterday and it didnt leak.But I had a tube of silicone sealant ready if it did I had to use the old "O" ring and cut a piece out to get it to fit ,but the grease trick works a treat. The new "O" ring was damaged beyond repair after being "pinched" between the cover and housing,so I couldnt use it Thanks for the tips everyone Regards N BTW - Is "10- 40 wt" transmission oil thicker or thinner than 20-30 wt

I find that not drying my bike "properly" after washing ,is a good way to get corrosion back in the same places that it had taken me ages to clean the corrosion off, before Only way I have found to cure it ,is to dry off best I can ,then get an oily rag and wipe it on suspect places straight after washing.This also lasts for the next time out ,riding in the mud.(my spoke nipples went rusty before my eyes a few weeks back while riding a stream ,after taking ages cleaning them and not lubeing them after ) I find that when I get home after a good days riding ,the last thing I want to do on a dark ,cold ,winters night ,is spend ages outside washing and drying the bike.But I find what I do, helps a great deal while it gets neglected for a few days in the garage. As for spraying WD40 ...I ruined 2 sets of brake pads by accidently overspaying the discs. Regards N

Going to try the grease trick ,"sirdabs" Wayneg - Dont think I`m overtightening the bolts....just nipping them up hand tight going from opposite bolt to opposite bolt so to speak...like tightening a car wheel The O ring just didnt seem to want to sit in the recess all the way around...always had one bit coming out... inwards...if you know what I mean Thanks for the help Regards N

Fitted a new "O" ring on the clutch cover on my 98 Techno...took nearly 30mins to get it near enough in place then nipped the screws up and seemed ok Went out riding yesterday ...after 5 mins it was leaking ...refitted it the best I could ...leaked again. Had another go and I got it to stop "pi**ing" out ...just a slight weep. Anyone got any tips on fitting them ???? Regards N

got to admire him just for that then....

I had a tip from Dan Clarke on a training day, to rub my clutch fibre plates with scotchbrite to clean them and to buff the metal plates up if they are shiney.To stop the clutch drag problem I`ve got I`ve never taken the clutch plates off before and have no idea what new ones look like,so I`m not sure if mine are worn or not.The actual fibre is about 0.015"-0.020" thickness (approx)either side of the plate BTW...its a 98 Techno Any help appreciated Regards N

Can I be on the reserve list please Regards N

Here`s my story on bleeding the back brake on my Techno about 14mths ago - I (naively) took my back brake caliper apart to thoroughly clean it (previous owner didnt know what cleaning was by the look of the bike) Anyway - I put it all back together ,thinking all I have to do is bleed it and hey presto. Days and days went by which turned into weeks and still no back brake. I tried all sorts, apart from the back bleed method,small ball bearing on the inside of the bleed nipple on my bike ,which allows fluid out and stops air going back in apparently,anyway the problem seemed as if air was getting trapped somewhere,but god knows where or how. Eventually ,I took the system off the bike and decided to check everything individually. Starting with the caliper ,I filled it with brake fluid using the syringe,then holding it in both hands and having the threaded holes uppermost,I gently shook it .The fluid level dropped 2/3 times then It stopped. BTW - the garage was full of brake fluid splashes and empty bottles of the stuff by now I then sealed up the end of the brake pipe that connects to the caliper with a `G` clamp and the copper washers and syringed fluid into it. I then filled the M/C with fluid and put the brake pipe on.I undid the `G` clamp slightly and pumped the M/C with a screwdriver till I thought all the air was out the pipe(always checking and filling the resevoir).When all the air was out I tightened the `G` clamp up and pumped the M/C to check for leaks and pressure.I found I couldnt pump it at all by hand,the `G` clamp was sealed perfectly so it was solid so I knew all that worked . Holding the caliper in a vice I attached the brake pipe carefully so as not to let to much air in. I thought `now` there is the smallest amount of air in the system...real easy to get out.So connected everything back and bled the system again ,and pressed the brake lever by hand...nothing,then again....nothing....3,4,5 times nothing...then on the 6th time I felt resistence ...`great` I`m getting somewhere I thought. Took the bike for a run and kept pumping the peddle ...I eventually got a brake of some sort ,it would slow me down eventually. I had to take it to a dealers for some work done a few days later anyway ,so I thought I`d ask him what the problem was. Turned out that the joint that pushes the little rod up in the M/C at the back of the brake lever was very worn( after me bleeding it vigourously no doubt) so he put a newbush in it ,and also there was a bolt stopper to adjust the height of the lever that he took out .He said that I wasnt getting enough lever movement when bleeding and that everything was now fine. And so it was...worked perfectly ....that`ll teach me for thinking it was easy and I`ll not to touch it again Hope some of this helps and to let you know you are not alone in your problem. Regards N

I want 1...but I will be in work till 9pm any other way of deciding ?? Regards N

The `Trick wizard` on M+M tonight at 8oClock Regards N

Looks like she`s all coat and no knickers that one.... Regards N

Booked for Saturday 21st Venue to be announced Cant wait See you there Kinell Regards N

OOPS....

Saw a pair of `Pow-a-stop` brake pads for sale....anybody heard of them or used them before Are they worth the

Surely it must be a fault in the material if they snap like that. Perhaps, wherever Renthals are made ,had a bad batch of brittle metal,surely they should bend rather than snap. I would have thought a young child would never put enough extreme force on their bars to snap them ,like Jeff Geisens son did What about putting something inside the the bars to give it extra strength,like say `sand` ,and then with bar ends on ,it would keep it compressed inside.....just an Idea I`m shopping around for new bars after reading this thread,even though i dont do extreme riding BTW.Would ordinary bars fit into clamps made for tapered bars? Regards N

REV`er It was a local bearing company......cash price = no vat Thanks for the help everyone BTW Regards N

I bought some new filter oil and followed the instruction to the letter Its `Putoline Action Fluid` now that i`ve come to clean it off my filter,it wont clean off properly. I`ve tried hand washing with washing up liquid(the one that keeps your hands as soft as your face ) and then putting it in the washing machine on its own but its still got a tacky residue and dark blue streaks in did it have to much fluid on in the 1st place ? if so what would be the running symptoms of having to much filter oil if any? As I said ..I followed the instructions to the letter which was - totally immerse filter in the fluid then gently squeeze it out until an even light blue colour is acheived and no blue streaks are seen ,let it stand for 10 mins then repeat ,then leave for 24hrs before fitting Anyone else have this problem? regards N

I asked Lampkins about renewing handle bars on my 98 Techno They said - "There is no rule of thumb for changing them but change them quite often" I`m only a novice rider but I dont know what level the previous owner rode at ,and as they are the Original bars (from what I can tell) mine would need to be changed by now no matter what level he/she was.....before its to late Thanks for reminding me... Hope your son isnt to shook up about the accident regards N