2shock

As a left hander i've ocassionally wondered the same thing. Whilst being left handed i'd also say i've never had a problem with a right handed throttle, but then again i'm no Dougie either- but doubt i can blame the throttle position for that one Also, we have the advantage of operating the clutch with the favoured hand, does that cancel out and percieved advantage of disadvantages? I suppose a poll of the top riders would be interesting, if none are lefties i'd at last have a bonafide excuse for being rubbish! Cheers

Hello I've recently seem an '09 Gas Gas 250 Pro with a button on the handlebars that apparntly gives different power options simular to the one found on some enduro and sports bikes. It had a 'sun' and 'rain' symbol on the switch implying harder os softer power delivery according to conditions? A bit of research has turned up no information about this on here or various other site's and a friend's identical bike hasn't got one, nor has he ever heard of such a thing! Has some joker fitted a switch off a Gas Gas enduro bike to confuse the ignorant (me!) or am i just not looking for information in the right place? Please let me know before i buy the bike and make a twit of myself by constantly faffing about with a switch that isn't connected to anything!!! Cheers

Went to the show at Telford today, which was apparntly much quiter than Satiuday. Fantastic selection fo bikes to look at to the point of visual overload. Perfectly turned out bikes from the exotic ex works to the 'mundane, but rare' models everywhere you looked. Brilliant Now for the moaning!! The mate i took with me to the show bought a bike in the main hall as we were about to leave at 1.00pm, but were told that NO bike could leave the building until the show ended at 3.30pm for security reasons!! After our enforced 2 and a half hour wait, the door's were all simply flung open and hundered's of thousand's of pounds worth bikes were hurridly pushed out through every avaliable exit. Not a single reciept or proof of ownership was either asked for or shown at any point. How did that help security?? Oh, and the worst food i've ever eaten!

Hi I have the same problem ('08 Rev 3) and have to detach the tank from the forks and pour it into the bike. Not perfect but better than walking home! I'll be watching this thread to see if there's a better soultion tho'. Cheers

I thought the same when i changed from a 250 to a 270, but have realized since that 270's all sound 'poppy'. The 'jerkyness' in also another 270 trait (but not a particularly helpful one in my opinion!) In fact now wish i'd stuck the 250 because of it!!

I think pre '07 ish ones about

Hello I've got one of the switches you're looking for (it's sure to be in the garage somewhere!) that as you've guessed was taken of my un-resistered '08 Rev 3 recently. You're welcome to it for the cost of post and packing. Let me know where to send it to (not sure how you can do this?) and i'll stick it in the post Cheers

Hi I had a Beta 250 and changed it for an '08 270. What a mistake! Unless you're an expert who needs hudge amounts of instant power forget the 270. It's not so much the amount of power, but the way it all arrives at once with every touch of the throttle. I can't comment on the Gas Gas but i now know the 200 would have been enough, and the 250 plenty! But then thats just my experience and you might be (OK, more than likley!!) a far more capable rideer than me, so i suppose do like i didn't, and test ride as many options as possible. Cheers

I fitted a TY Trials kit to my TY and it's made the bike 100% reliable after some annoying eletrical problems which prompted the mod in the first place I don't feel qualified to comment on improved power output, because the bike never ran for long enough or properly to judge before fitting the kit! The thing i have noticed, and appreciate is the way it stats 1st kick EVERY time, (red-hot or been sat unused for months!) and is also very difficult to stall even at tiny small throttle openings. So, yes it was worth it for me. Cheers

Hi Does anyone have know a reasonable colour match for a TY 175 petrol tank? It dosen't have to be an accurate paint code or anything elobrate, just one of the (sometimes daft) names they give car colours would be great. Cheers

Hi Has anyone ever tried to calm down the power delivery of an '08Beta 270 with any sucess? Mine's still got the flywheel weight fitted, and a slow action throttle tube, but i sill find it a real handful most of the time. Are heavier flywheel weights etc avaliable? Ta

Ah! that explains it. Problem i've got now is i've been fiddling with the mixture screw whilst looking for the choke! I don't suppose you know the setting for the mixture? Thanks again

I know it sounds a bit of a dopey question, but can someone tell me how the choke operating mecanisim works on the '08 Beta's? There's a knurled screw that seats when wound in (clockwise) but can then be turned anti clockwise forever! I could fiddle and work it out for myself, but it would be nice if a current owner would just be kind enough to tell me? Thanks

If you think the wheel bearings are difficult, just wait until you have to do Beta swing arm bearings! They cost me a Dremil, a new vice and loads of pain!!!

My Gaerne's are the most comfortable, but leakey boots i've ever owned! Adding Sealskins means warmer but damp feet, Gortex liners mean dry but cold feet! Having said that i'm used to MX boot that are always leaky and always uncomfortable!! Whenever i see a rider in steel toecap welly's i can't help think he's got it right. Cheap, warm and dry what more do you want? (Apart from protection but i'm not convinved my well worn Gaerne's offer much of that anyway!) Is it all about wanting to look right, not whats practical any more? Why else would so many rotund, middle aged men think wearing lycra is a good idea? Ps. I've obviously learn nothing as i'm going to try out my (more expensive and undoubtly more leaky than wellys) new trials boots tomorrow !!!!

Hello I'm in the process of replacing the swingarm bearings on my '02 Beta Rev 3. I got the pivot pit out OK, but the old needle bearings are proving more difficult to remove! Is there a recognized method of shifting these that i should try before i resort to the big hammer/fail/ take to someone who know's what he's doing system that i so often seem to use!! Also (whilst it's apart) whats the best method of lubricating the spherical shock bearings. I can't feel and up and down play so am assuming they are OK. Cheers

Hello I had a Rotax 240 engined, alloy box section framed, single shock one with CCM badges. I contacted CCM direct when looking for parts and they told me they had only made about 100 units like the one i had. (Possibly because it was competeing for sales against the better TY250 mono was about around the same time!) I saw one on e.bay a while ago and another for sale at the Malvern twinshock show so they definatly exist!! Cheers

Hello I've an eletronic ignition kit fitted to my TY and now need a small weld on the sidestand bracket. To prevent damage do i need to disconnect everything, something or nothing?? I know i could just disconnect everything if i'm concerned, but am now curious having heard various opinions. I seem to remember my brother pulling the power supply off his tractor's alternator before welding the plough attached to it! Cheers

Hi Andy Ok, so i admit it's probabaly the thought of the thought of faffing about getting special shoes made up and than finding someone to machine 'em to the right size that put's me off more than anything. I prefer the 'quick fix' approach to solving problems (like fitting the eletronic ignition) even if it costs a few quid as at least i can ride it when time allows rather than fiddling with it! Incidently the ignition works just like i was told. Easy to fit, starts first time every time and ticks over evenly indefinatly. I can't really comment on what it's done for the power delivery as it never ran for long enough to find out before i fitted it, and my memory doesn't go back the 15yrs to when i last had a TY, but it feels nice and 'unstallable' to me. Next dilema is solving the bottoming out rear shocks so.......

Hello feetupfun Blimey i can't believe someone in Oz is trying to help me with my crappy old TY! Whilst i realize you've got to fettle old bikes a bit more than new ones I still want things to work. Whilst i don't expect the braking ability of my modern bikes i'm surprized that myBSA B25 has much better ones!! I also realize thatc some of you fanatics will put more cash and effort into solving a problem than me!! Cheers

Shoes are Vesrah grooved ones. The cam is set in both the correct logical position and as per the Haynes manual. I think I'll try the sanding of both the new shoes and drum, then plenty of miles to try and bed them in well before tackling any steep downhills. Last time i tried a steep decent quickly was when i discovered just how rubbish the front brake was!! Thanks for all advice

Hi Andy To answer both of your questions. Yes, the splined shaft is a good fit in the hub, and yes i do seem to be able to lock the wheel when operating the brake arm by hand. The inside of the hub is only slightly groved when you run your finger across it. Ta

Hi I will try to post an image of the inside of the hub (computer skills no better than my mechanical ones!!) If the scoring of the hub is likley to be the problem and skimming it would be the only cure, would it mean removing the hub from the wheel and respokeing it to get this done? I don't really fancy this idea as iv'e just fitted eletronic ignition to give a reliable spark, new clutch plates and cable to cure a grabby/slipping clutch and now this! What next i wonder? I have to ask myself if it's time to admit defeat on nostalga and stick to modern bikes? Cheers

Hello I wonder if anyone can shed any light on my latest (and hopefully last) TY problem. The front brake was very poor and had run out of adjustment - moving the brake arm around the splined shaft didn't work either. I've now fitted a new genuine Yamaha cable, new (quality) shoes and new lever/perch of the type designed to lighten the clutch. What i've ended up with is a brake that i can adjust to the point just before the shoes make contact with the drum, then as i squeeze the lever to the bars it feels increasingly spongey until fully home. At this point i can still push the bike forward without it locking the front wheel !! I did notice a bit of scoring inside the hub, have i got to bed the shoes in quite a bit before the doing the final adjustment? Thanks

Hi I suspect the British obsession with ease of carb removal is based on the amount of time's we have to clean them out due to the wetter, muddier conditions that we tend to ride in compared to Utah. In fact to only positive i can see in insisting on riding old worn out, under powered, underbraked twin shock bike's is that at least we can get the carb off easily! The often indulged in British ritual of carb cleaning goes something like this - carb off, bowl off and peer into the bottom corners for dirt or water, be dissapointed if you don't find any, remove and blow through each jet until the taste of petrol makes your head spin, reassemble carb, pretend to your mates that the bike now runs superbly due to your skill and knowledge!! Cheers