pindie

Is it in gear? If auto have you tried fresh oil?

Have you tried the old Honda XR 600 method? Two good long steady pushes on the starter arm with no throttle (hold handle bar and not the twist grip to make sure. with right hand) to prime it. The third kick/push needs to be a full one from the very top and go at a steady rate to through a full swing. If you stab at it like a crosser it'll never go as you are not getting the flow of power to the ecu and circuits. A fried had an Ossa and I managed to make it go no bother this way where he'd been sweating for an hour!

You may need a centre punch to tap the edges of those two chamfer headed bolts. One of mine was seized but a tap loosened it. Once those two are out the actual weight is a disc of metal and lifts of the main body of the flywheel. If you suffer from a feeling of being "pushed" on after you shut the throttle that will disappear once the weight is removed. You can also remove the plastic ring spacer on the side case as well. If you don't like how it feels it'll take two minutes to pop it back on. I live in Wales where it is always wet, slippery and muddy. My local training ground is estuary clay/silt/mud and concrete. I don not seem to have issues finding grip from removing it but it doe increase feel a lot in my opinion. Removing it may even help big end bearings live longer as well?

I'm not sure if it gets me going or not? It does not seem to have the same appeal as an Ossa for me. I'd love one though as it would be new and flipping awesome!

I know a man who will do it for you without butchering the shock. It was

The new kit will come with a spring. If this is fitted the bit shouldn't fall out...

I took mine off my 200 and it changed it for the better big time. More accurate, easier to get up things, way better control off the throttle for mile long wheelies! Take it off and test? If you don't like I'd put it back on. Weirdly I get better grip with it off as you can actually feel for grip with the throttle. You can't do that with a load of needless extra mass.

That pin is the bit you need. Once fitted you need to adjust it all so it can't fall out but is not solid. The free play allows the heat expansion required.

I used the volume amount after cleaning out the tubes and the damper rod by pumping it into a bowl. Once I knew it was all clean the amount Beta list was spot on. I think one leg was 370 and the other 350ml. I use feeler gauges to clean the seals. Pull the dust seal up the leg or fully off if the legs out. You need to ease the edge of the feeler around the seal lips to clear out grit and dirt build up in all the gaps. Rinse with brake cleaner as this evaporates. The actual oil seal is done the same way. Carefully slide the thin feeler vertically down the leg between the seal and chrome stanchion. Be careful and gentle. Run the feeler around the leg but within the seal as you gently ease the feeler out and you'll pull the dirt out. I blasted these seals as I went around them with brake cleaner to wash any dirt out. Any dirt that gets inside is cleaned out when you empty the oil and rinse out the inside of the fork tubes with paraffin or something similar. I clean the dust and oil seals monthly as a rule and have not had to replace one yet and they don't leak. I'm convinced that unless you have a damaged tube the only reason they leak is they are full of mud and grunge which stops them flexing to create the seal. I've been out today and the forks are excellent after the oil change, no leaks and all dandy.

Sounds nasty but I reckon your "knuckle reaming" will be the best option as you won't get this fixed under warranty.

I've been out for an hour this evening..... What a difference fresh oil has made! I'm going to have to wind off a turn of preload I think as the front end is alive now. I had no idea it was going to make such a difference. This is definitely going to be a regular maintenance job for me from now on. My advice to anyone who does not know how old the fork oil is in their bike is to change it. It's cheap and easy to do. Taking the wheel out is the most complicated bit and the benefits are huge. I only need to use half the effort to loft the front wheel now and it is all so much smoother.

Big gap so you don't knock it into another gear in a section.

Did you get it sorted?

It will behave a lot better once you are on the nano for a while. I could never get neutral etc and got a bruised toe changing gear. Since being on nano it's now easy to find neutral and change gear. I have also avoided having to file down each plate as per the "mod".

All done. Forks are way smoother. I don't reckon it's ever been done before as I had blobs of grunge and a thick layer of grey goo in the ends of both legs. The worst bit was getting tightening the left (larger bolt) leg drain bolt. Can't wait to test it out. I'm going to schedule this as a six monthly job as its easy and the sludge would not even form.

I'd use something like Putoline Strawberry.

You'll get a tidy rev3 200 for that dollar. You won't regret it.

Would this inverted shock idea work on any bike if the shocks fits upside down?

If I had the wonga I'd get an Ossa. I've never ridden one but they look ace.

I agree. A lap top and excel is all you need. Even an iPhone using apples "numbers" app will do it. This data can be used for loads of stuff. There are plenty of web based how too guides for excel. It's not nice losing a valued club member so young. I'm sure everyone on here hopes the family is bearing up.

If you're that worried get cold forged levers as you can end them back and they don't snap.

Aim it upwards so any excess gets your chin. You'll know about it then. Seriously though I find trials cooling systems always a worry as they seem just too small. You could always mount a small expansion tank?

I only use one finger ( braking). Is your lever adjusted right and the system bled?

Yes. A lot. My gearbox on ATF feels very dry and not slick. It will always find the gear etc but you notice extra effort to do so. With nano in after a couple of rides it was way smoother as the new nano oil did what ever it does. It stayed like this for week after week. In the end the notchyness started to appear again so I used to second 500ml from the bottle and hey presto the box was silky smooth again. One bottle of nano lasted me nearly a year of practice and six trials! I tend to ride very week for a minimum of an hour or two. As a contrast I forgot I used up the nano so when I dropped the oil for fresh the other week i only had ATF to put back in. Doh!. The gear box feels dry and notchy now. I will be grabbing a bootle of Nano trans as soon as I can get to my local supplier. The clutch also feels grabby again and not just right now using ATF. I feel Nano is worth the money as it is the genuine article for a gear box where ATF is for car auto boxes and power steering. Has your bike got either? Try the nano and I'm sure you'll like it. .

Try using putonline nano trans oil. My clutch on my 07 felt grim, I changed to nano trans and its now awesome. Nano trans is not cheap but it lasts a long time as it resists breakdown much longer than gear oil or ATF. I've been using it a while now and do about 40hrs before I change it. It is expensive but excellent and certainly a cheaper and a quicker mod.