pindie

Sounds like your pilot jet may be blocked or you have a float height issue. Have you had it long? Has it got an inline fuel filter? I'm certain it is a simple fix.

Very easy to change front sprocket. Loosen rear wheel or remove it to get chain slack. Undo circlip on shaft. Change sprocket. Fit circlip and wheel. Ride.

If you think "stunting" trail rides I would not worry. If it is more of a proper motorcycle day out ride I'd get something more suited. Single track or off piste trials bikes are very good.

What amount of teeth you running Dan? Dropping a tooth will lower the gearing overall.

I'm not an ATF fan. All the issues I have ever had with gear boxes and clutchs seem to stem from ATF. I always use light gear oil and now am a nano trans convert. I'd rather pay more for the oil and keep out of the workshop to ride more rather than faffing around with files etc.

Try nano trans G Box oil by Putoline. It aint cheap but you get two changes out of a bottle and each change will be required after long time. It is much better oil than ATF.

You can by the material if you are handy with a sewing machine!

I have Alpinestars Tech 8s (MX Boots) and No stop trials boots. Both are a size 9 but the No stops are more generous sizing. They also become really supple so give a little bit. If tight just wear thin socks till they give. They are so comfy you don't even need socks!

Get Alpinestars and just look after them. Use a good boot wax or leather feeding oil and it'll double the life of the boot.

Michelin do heavy duty tubes which come with metal caps that have valve keys built in. Try googling valve key cap? I did and came up with this http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&frm=1&source=web&cd=1&ved=0CE0QFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.halfords.com%2Fwebapp%2Fwcs%2Fstores%2Fservlet%2Fproduct_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_564275_langId_-1_categoryId_255241&ei=uL4nUKu7HYel0AWE7oCACw&usg=AFQjCNHPvdJOJW9aOWeA6aTvUx3MpoI3hA&sig2=xxJN40wKci3eKzbqr0Afdw Not only can you tighten the valve or remove and replace it you can tighten these properly and rule out leaking caps. It also help at tyre replacement time as you can completely remove the valve.

I'd always start by replacing the plug, drain the tank (put it in the mower) and then drain the carb. Turn off fuel tap after carb draining and re fill tank with a fresh fuel mix. Turn on fuel, pull choke lever and kick. If it's still a no go then 0007 is the next thing to try. Where are you based Steve h?

What a perculiar way of testing levers!

Madmostins right. Trials is a queer old game but rewarding once you get further into it. Some would say too far....

If it helps I set my tick over only up a tad. I test by standing by the bike and put it in third gear. If I can let the clutch fully out whilst not on the bike and then walk beside it I know its right. Not too high its ring ding dingging but just enough so you can use less throttle action at fine moments. Probably no good for better riders though?

I know it helps but if Beta wanted it to have less springs etc they would not make it have so many in the first place. I am sure nano won't work for everyone (cost or feel) but it is the very best oil for the application. I was an avid hater of Putoline as my old RGV 250 proddie bike seized up on their MX5 oil years ago. I swore I'd never use them again. They seem to know their onions on the strawberry 2t premix oil and this nano trans (GP spec) oil for transmissions. Try it once and if no good never bother again. 1 ltr is two changes worth and I seem to get three months use even if I'm riding a lot from one 500ml fill. I change it because I "feel" it going off but others may find it last longer. I used ATF in my GG 300 Raga and always had clutch issues. I wish I'd tried nano then (if it were available). The bike would still have been way better than me!

Apparently Olympic sports need to celebrate the use of the human body in competition. How sailing and rowing boats do that I don't know. One reflection it's worth keeping trials out the Olympics as I don't want olympians all over the Welsh countryside and is would look messy! They would ban me from riding in my welding boots, mankini and cape.

I use Putoline NanoTrans and have had no issues at all clutch wise since using it. I did before when using light gear and ATF oil etc. I'm now a convert to this expensive but long lasting oil. Over a year it works out the same cost and you need to change it much less often. Occasionally I'll get slight sticking when first starting the bike and clicking into gear but I push off as a click into gear. It releases straightaway though and I can stop within 1m of pulling off. I dare say that if I gave the clutch lever a wiggle first I probably would not need to do it. I'd try another old school bleed very slowly with decent new fluid and then change to Nanotrans. Leave it in a month to work its magic and see if it improves? You change the nano when the slickness goes from gear changes - clutch action always still good though.

Try using a higher gear than what you currently use. If you now use second use third etc. Rather than ripping up the field try low speed figure of eight turns getting as tight as you can until on full lock. What can help here is tunring the tick over up very slighly so you don't need to use the throttle for really slow stuff. You can also use a bit of gentle rear brake. Dont give up on the 270 until it gets no better after six months. A day out with others will certainly help. If you do decide to take the weight off it may help? It will pick up even quicker but also shut of quicker. Try it and see. Mine will never be going back on.

Thanks Chewy. A kindred spirit. Andy - I have clicked and looked at every option shown. I have even used the drag marker on the edge of the box to make it bigger in search of this holy grail that is attaching a photo. As I have already wasted 4 hours trying to do it I won't bother. It was not meant to be. Thanks for the prompt help though Andy. Its just a shame I am a biffer that can't do it.

No. Sorry. Still not getting it? I have done what you have said and now tried clicking on everything visible and I have not bee able to "simply attach" a photo. I have used the options on the "more reply options" screen.

Is there a simple way to add/attach photos? On here it asks for a URL. I have no idea what this is or where I'd find it. My car forum you just click on "attach photo" and bingo its on there. Surely there is a way of doing this on here?

Its a flat metal disc about 10-15mm thick with a chamfered edge. If you can see your stator etc you don't have one fitted. If it looks cover with a metal case you may have one fitted. I try to post a picture....

I reckon it will be worth adjusting the "C" rings first and get some decent boing into it. You can get a c spanner to do it properly but you can also use a drift and hammer to loosen the lock rign and turn up the spring pressure. Tighten the spring until the bike only squashes down about 50-60mm when you stand only the pegs at a standstill. Make sure you tighten the lock ring well. Once this is set you can then try the damping adjuster. There is no point having it re built until you have tried to adjust it and set it up properly with no change in damping etc.

Have you checked to see if you have a flywheel weight fitted on the Rev 3? My 200 did and was much better to ride once it was off.

Don't panic. It is only the tab which actuates the rubber tipped needles fuel flow not adjusted properly. You need the carb clean and on the bench and in good light. Have a look closely at what point the brass tang affects the fuel flow valve. You can use the rev 3 guide to work this bit out. Once this is set properly you won't need to block things off!