pindie

Regina is the best bike chain ever made.

This means more torque as a compression force can be applied to the threads of the axle than the alloy spacer can cope with. The hard steel races are forced hard against the soft alloy spacer in the hub and will squash it longitudinally. Bottom line - don't over tighten your axle nut!

I wa always led to believe double skin pipes were to make them more durable and quieter. Two narrow pipe are used by Honda on a lot of engines to improve gas flow (two pipes) at high revs but also help torque (narrow diamter) at low revs. Nowt to do with looks. When looking at lightness etc then you need thin walled pipes out of unobtainium to make them light. Trials headers are designed for torque as there is no real expansion chamber as such to help horsepower. They are certainly not the optimum design.

There you go then. Get a good 200 and tweak the bits you find out you don't like. I don't reckon it will be much though!

Carl may have a point if the other "fixes" don't work. You will need to take the carb to someone with a sonic cleaner. If your local bike does not have one your local mower/chainsaw repair shop might. It'll cost pennies to be cleaned but at least you can rule out any blocked jets or passageways.

Did the old chain carve a groove into the pedal which the new chnage does not fit into?

Show us some pics once on the bike. I love the colours! Can you paste a link to the suppliers website or the number of who you dealt with on here? How much?

Careful fitting is paramount but I have always got years out of wheel bearings in various off road Msports. Probably more to how you fit them (use a press and the old bearing race to push in) and how you clean the area around the bearing with water. Another thing I was always told to do was make sure no grease is oozing out the bearing. If you have this outside the seal it drags muck and grit into the bearing. The seals only seal if onto clean metal. Never over grease bearings!

You could always fit Dzus fastners? Fiddly to fit but good long term to use.

Get a 200! You don't have this problem and you won't miss the power. Especially when tired on the last lap. You'll clean up then (picking up course section flags).I had a 300 before my 200 thinking I needed the 300's power. I was stupid and dull for thinking this. I only ride in the biffer sportsman class but my result have skyrocketed since having a bike I control and don't fear. There is nothing I've not been able to do on the 200 and I have not flipped it or done silly too-much-power things. You will be surprised with the 200's torque. Its a cracking bike and not a rev monster. If you fancy a drive to Newport or passing you could have a blat on mine. You'd be hooked!

Well done! Did you get a go on his Mrs? The left kick is weird till you get used to it being on the proper side. It's a nightmare that other manufacturers keep putting them on the wrong side! Electric starts not far off now for trials bikes....

Cleaning your header is general maintenance. Potato in the end and fill with caustic soda and leave overnight. Once back on the bike try and get it hot before your slow riding. Has anyone ever tried pipe wrapping on a trials bike?

I agree. NGK all the way. Try the highest octane fuel you can get as well. I use 99ron from the supermarket or shell Vpower. My car needs these types of fuel and the Beta certainly runs sweeter on them.

Seems like we are all agreed on a range between 30-1 and 80-1? Do what you want I say. If it goes bang add more oil, if it smokes like hell reduce oil!

Mine are 5 years old and sweet. never aim the pressure washer at the gap. Rest the nozzle on the sidewall of your tyre so no force goes against the seal.

A company now based in the south east but has a name from the west country is a windings specialist. They use thicker wire etc so should last longer. Take the cover off after washing to let it dry out. Don't worry about it during the days riding but they seem prone to condensation even if you seal it right. Just wash the casing if your not a cleaning freak, undo the three bolts and leave to air. A blast of GT85 won't hurt. From what I have had with mine it is impossible (unless lucky) to get no condensation in the cover. The windings rot from the inside out so you can't see it going wrong till it's too late. Air is your friend - use it!

I'd google the Beta Carb fix. You may have float issues caused by the retaining pin sliding across and hitting the float bowl casing. You need this - http://www.google.co...pl987H7Mde-OyiQ There are other versions of this with diagrams. My pipes had holes in but the internal parts had never been set right. My 200 does not leak or have issues anymore. After that I'd worry about timing. Did you put it back as you found it? Mine is slightly to the right of centre by 1-2mm. Lampkins said to me the middle would be ok.

Sorry. He is in England. I did not realise you were in Sweden!

Take the plug out and put a new one in. Reed valve ok? Compression ok? Carb fitted ok?

They should last longer than that unless dodgy. Agreed on the over tightening as well.

If you want a re build or it checked properly and rebuilt this chap (Andy Dawson) did mine for £80.00 including seals, oil, gas and a new bottom bearing. Andy Dawson 07973 628270 He is the only person/shop I found that could do it. If you go elswhere and someone mentions drilling and fitting a schrader valve etc then run a mile! Is the bike in reasonable nick? I doubt the spring could be knackered at that age and it should be ok for 65kg. I bet your gas is low.

In wales we get deep mud, rocks, road and anything else in between - oh and lots of water. My IRC seems good at it all but the Mich is definitley that bit more supple and grips better. They don't last as long as the IRC though but that depends where you ride.

Be interesting if you wnet on an MTB forum and asked the same question. Gaitors just hide maintnence. Hidden (read avoided) maintenance costs you more in the long run.

Hmmmm. I might have a look at that. I don't tend to suffer from girly hand/fingers on the clutch side though? When I chnage my clutch I may add these washers.....

You sure its the stator on a 2012 model? Could be dicky earth/wiring. Give Lampkins a shout. They should know any obvious current snags.