pindie

I used to wear one in enduro riding but I burst two discs in my lower back and those days are over! I now ride trial and do not wear them as it is restrictive. The chap who sorts my aches and pains in my back advises strongly not to use any form of support (girdles, kidney belts & corsets). The reason for this is that it prevents your muscles providing the support and exacerabtes the weakness. It's far better to ride more gently for a bit and develop the strength in your core muscles to support your body. The kidney belts main role is to stop your internal organs flapping about at speed and high impacts. Your don't really get these in trials.

You still get wear on chrome just not as much. The chrome goes very shiny where the fork seals sit most of the time, the chrome gets more dull as you travel up the leg to the yoke so this shows the chrome wears as well by fine particles and seal contact - a bit like polishing. Personally I am not a fan of gaitors but I am a fan of popping up the dust wipers and leaving the gap under the wiper to dry. I also clean the oil seal with a feeler gauge to keep them in good nick and grit free. I could be wrong but the gaitors still allow moisture into the seal/wiper area but they also work as a filter by removing the large particles and keeping them out the seals but this means the finer and potentially more damaging longterm particles still end up in there with moisture. This slips past the seals and causes the damage by entering the oil easily and working as grinding paste in the fork internals. This moist and fine grit mix is great for rusting your seal retaining clips also. You could remove the gaitors after each ride to clean and dry these areas which would help but then this becomes an extra hassle. I reckon that most people will not bother. A bit of simple maintenance keeps seals and wipers going for years so this is the way ahead I feel. The other bonus of leaving them exposed is you can see if anything is damaged easily. One good point og gaitors is they may offer a tiny bit of protection to the stanchion if your lucky if you fall off on rocks.

Well well well. You learn something everyday. Thanks.

So whats wrong with the Michelin then? I have an IRC on my Rev3 at the mo. Can't say it's any better than a Michelin. I've not tried the X lIte yet though but am next time.

WFT? Army & Navy washers?

Think of the vee rubber tyre as one that looks like a trials tyre but in reality it is for trail bikes. IT IS NOT A TYRE FOR TRIALS BIKES IN COMPETITIONS. You have been warned. Go Michelin and never regret it.

Oooohhhh! Handbag warning.

I'm a Beta 200 fan. Sadly they don't to a 4t one. Its easy to mix fuel and if you get a 3ltr jug and a pre measured pot it is very simple and quick to do. This means you have much more bike choice if you go 2t. Don't overbike your self. A 200 is amazingly capable and won't jump out your hands when tired but it may be revy on the trail. I can't say I find my Rev 3 200 rvey though. If you are not going to do trial competition why not look at the Scorpa T Ride? If you want to compete then get a trialer. If trail riding/enduro is more your scene do not use a trials bike as it will be pants compared to a proper enduro model.

Let us know. I'd fancy a tricolore scheme on my rev 3!

My Iveco is 25K. I am the same though and change it every 10k as I just feel comfier doing this and I don't mind twirling a spanner for 10 mins.

Have you greased the lever pivot and adjusted it correctly for your hand span? Is it the same angle as the Sherco? If it angled down or up from where your used to you will get an effect. I'd also take the opportunity to bleed the clutch and change your oil. Once all this is done ride it for a month before ripping it all to bits and changing things that might not need it. You need time to adjust to it as well.

Buy Alpinestars and you don't need to break them in. They won't last that long though. As for your Gaerne things - don't wreck them by peeing, heating, crushing & greasing. If you do that all the tiny fibers in the stitching and leather etc are being stressed. A LOT. Take the time to coat them with quality boot wax and walk about, ride a bit, walk a bit and ride a bit more. Keep waxing between seesions and you'll soon find their sorted without ageing them sooner than you need to. You would'nt flog a brand new piston so why do it to boots! They need a warm up like the rest of us.

Just get out ther to a trial and ask the older guys. Take the time to work out your suspension settings as well. It makes a monumental difference.

i think this is the whole point. Most jetting and set up guides for 2ts come from MX or road racing stables. No use at all for trials. MX & RR create heat that trials bikes don't get near. This helps burn surplus oil off etc but leaves an indicator. In a trials motor it tends to be relativley slow running and a lot of 1/8th throttle use so hardly ever into main jet or needle operating ranges. My philosophy is think what you do and set up accordingly. 1. Only tight woods and sections. Lean out the pilot circuit bit by bit till you have clean running. 2. Sections with a bit of light trail. Lean out the pilot circuit a tad if needed but make sure its not lean once you start to open the needle/main jet circuits (but also not to rich). 3. Section with trail use and road work. Settle for a balance throughout the rev range. You need the oil in the motor on the road or sections or you'll get the eeeeeeeeeepppK! and seize. It'll smoke once hot but your only burning of the excess you have built up in slow bits. 4. If a clean pipe is your top agenda get a 4T. Two strokes are all about compromise. this is why the old school road race bike had so many gears (and the expansion chamber was invented). They had to keep the revs in a very narrow rev band to keep it "on the boil". As soon as you change the revs or load the oil and heat range behaviour change a lot. Above all I'd rather not scuff or wear pistons when I can clean a pipe in half the time to fix a knackered motor for a lot less cash. Pick your riding style and jet accordingly or ride accordingly to your jetting. If the pros have to "give her a handfull to clear it" then they are also using enough oil to create residue no matter what the ratio is.

Secret with all 4Ts is find top dead centre and then one long push - never a kick! You'll shock load parts that can't take it. Good strong steady pressure is the way ahead. Can't help you on the noise though sorry.

I think you have niche bike of the niches of niche bikes! The tiddlers classes tend to dissapear and only ever turn up as stored old dogs. It will be a test but I reckon you will get there. Have you emailed Beta and KTM to get the worst case scenario if you had to buy all the parts new? Once you know that (and the part numbers) you can go hunting....

I dont think it will be a problem as long as you let things cool down with the engine running. Exhaust fumes don't have much oxygen in so the fumes would stifle any possible fire. Get home and chug about your drive or whatever for 10 mins and it will be fine. I had exactly the same thing with my Rev 3 (and old Raga 300) when I first got them. Since owning either of them it has never happened again so it does clear. As long as you don't let it burst into flames it will be doing it some good. It is old crap build up burning off. You will need fresh packing once it has stopped doing it though.

It is very tight. Mine is a pig to get on and off.

Its the black goo that burns. It will have done the pipe a lot of good and cleaned it up. Now re pack and it will be sweet. Might have a rich jetting issue for small throttle openings though but you can check the jet sizes easy enough and ask on here.

+1 for knackered tyres. I'm that keen on them I even use them in trials comps! New tyre when you see the carcass.

Dig holes and put the soil into the cut drum. Compact it in it and flip it over. Hey presto a dip before the obstacle! Be very slippy though. If you can ride the stones enduro stylee you'll get the hang of it trials stylee the more you get used to low speed. You still need momentum etc but better technique. If you then have a blast on enduro bikes again you will be a riding god after trials!

I have a real old Fast Eddy wax cotton smock. Similar shape to an flash but very rippable Alpinestar waterproof. I reckon you could make them easy enough if you know someone with a sewing machine. Get some thick cotton sheet and make the smock and then soak it in wax cotton juice (you can get it on line). You then have a water & thorn proof very tough longlasting top. Once a year treat it to new juice and it'll last forever! Get some cloth here- http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&frm=1&source=web&cd=1&ved=0CGUQFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.fabricuk.com%2Ffabrics.php%3Ffabric_type%3D267&ei=14r8T5_GDYed8gPmkO26Bw&usg=AFQjCNHg100sXxqPFQ55IZ-xG39OXnokoQ&sig2=tusgrKAJCSqtdXt5C-Z3iw I fancy the red next time!

Good point Billyt on the age of fuel. I always use fresh Tesco 99 or Shell Vpower each ride. I suck the old stuff out and put it in the mower in summer and the car in the winter. Would this makes burning A747 easier? I don't know but I don't sem to get issues. I like the smell of A747 through my 2.5 turbo Subaru Forester XT though!

Get the files or a £12 copy dremmel thing off ebay. At leat the dremmel is good for other things.

If you can find a sole it is easy to do. 1. Pull off old sole carefully. 2. Sand down bed/boot sole bed. 3. Clean with contact cleaner well - do not use a cloth as this stops the glue sticking!!!!! Just contact cleaner and lots of it. 4. Let them dry throughly. 5. Smear Evo stik (others are available) impact adhesive on the boot sole and onto the new sole it self and let each on dry for 10 mins. 6. Press sections firmly together and use a wallpaper roller to fully press hard all over the sole. 7. Once the glue is fully set cut/sand any sole edges that are not flush. 8. You now have re soled boots! You may find though all this is a waste of time though as you end up with knackered uppers but good soles and replace the boots anyway.