pindie

I have had a Halfords set for over 15 years. Its a hundred piece plus jobbie. I still find that I have bits/sockets etc that I never knew were in it. It also has spanners. Well worth the money and they replace anything without a receipt if it wears out or breaks - ever! Good stuff. Use the old addage: By cheap by twice. Halfrauds ain't cheap but a least you get new ones for free. Use this link - http://www.google.co...ALwVtR_VKebCA-w

I found this interesting in one of the replies: About 100:1 Premix Oils - Since the 70’s there have been repeated advertising claims made by various oil brands claiming that their oils can offer suitable lubrication for competition two-stokes on a 100:1 or 80:1 premix. In many cases, these claims are “supported” by testimonials from various users. Despite the oil makers claims, and the sincerity of the testimonials … it’s not so. Running a 100:1 premix would be much like running only 2 quarts of oil in your truck, expecting that the quality of the oil can make up for the quantity …. It cannot….. no matter how good the film strength is “claimed” to be. The truth is, many two-stroke engines can “operate” on a 100:1 pre-mix so long as rpms are kept very low (as might be the case on a novice class open bike). But the first time that 100:1 engine makes an extended higher rpm run … it will lose the mathematics of oil migration, and score a piston. There is just no way around the math. This must explain why it is fine to use next to no oil for a trials bike as we don't rev them really? When we do though are we scuffing up pistons etc? I am sure the bike makers know their onions so if they say 80:1 then they must be about right as a conservative measure ratio. If you want to go leaner feel free. Just don't moan your piston or crank is made of cheese. If you want to use 30:1 then feel free also - just don't take offence when those behind frown at you or you wonder why the bike has lost it's zing. Me personaly? I'm sticking at 60:1 as I do different types of riding slow-medium speeds not just sections.

Better use A747 more then! If you do take the time to get your jetting right for where you ride most. i.e at sea level, at higher altitude or somewhere in the middle. A friend who used to race at the IOM TT on a TZ 350 always says they used to have real nightmares getting jetting right for the long fasts bits low down and then making it also still work over the mountain. The IOM is not that big so height is pretty crucial to jetting and sweet running.

I'm with lankydoug. I never seem to have issues when bleeding brakes or clutch but I always make sure everything is backed off when doing it so it can let air out at the top and at the nipple when opened.

Sounds like someones fiddled before and things back in the wrong order? Glad it's getting better.

I'd say you have a problem with set up somewhere. If you have not done it for a while I'd change the gbox oil and have a 10 minute ride to swill the plates with fresh oil- any better? If not I'd then back off the clutch lever free play adjusters until the lever is slack and does not press on the MS plunger to rule out heat expansion issues. Any better? No? Now bleed the clutch slowly and fully. Once bled and without tightening the free play adjuster at the lever take it for a spin. Is it better? If not its the plates sticking so time for the Beta clutch mod. If you don't know how old the clutch is buy a new set of plates before you remove the old clutch. Do the mod to these and soak in fresh gbox oil before putting them in the bike. Always make sure the lever as free play at the plunger so things can expand when hot. A common problem (for brakes as well) is no expansion room. This means as things get hot during use if is causing pressure. This pressure either makes the clutch stick or your brakes drag. Both are annoying but simple to fix.

I use 500 ml Nano Trans and it has saved me having to do the "clutch fix". Expensive but good.

Thats cos' Beta should be read as Better! Simples

Stop worrying and get riding. By the time this post is solved oil will have run out! Enjoy burning as much oil and fuel as you can until it's gone.

Hi Ben, Don't let the cheeky little monkeys freak you out (brakes not other members). They should bleed just fine. I use a long (1.5m) piece of clear tube for my brakes and clutch bleeding. One end on the nipple the other end clipped up high at the handle bar. Bleed as normal but the benefit will be noticed using a long clear tube. You can see whats in there, how far if at all etc it is pumping through and you get no air locks anywhere as the air can shoot up the tube. try this first. Back bleeding works well if you have too but my trusty clear tube method has never failed me yet - even when I fitted a new dry clutch master cylinder to my Rev 3 the other day.

Hi Both. Have you tried cleaning the seals out properly first? Remove wipers and slide up the leg and clean with a feeler gauge or strip of thin and flexible plastic. Next you can slide a thin feeler gauge down the leg between the chrome and the seal. Once in run it right around the ge a few times and wipe away and dirt. I repeat again. Pump forks up and down and wipe legs off (they usually leak like mad at first). Repeat, repeat & repeat. They should have settled by now. Slide down the wipers and your good to go. You can see a visual here: http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&frm=1&source=web&cd=1&ved=0CEYQtwIwAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.youtube.com%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DUSac5G4SI-U&ei=XZ_4T5TTEqqx0QWqgKmbBw&usg=AFQjCNHRveOhF9-phfDdnTfRqxcomr5Syw&sig2=lMmBNnQUKpeuuXoR_zto6g

Have you tied Trials and Tribulations? They always seem to have everthing I have ordered.

I use the sheet type packing and roll the inner tube very tighly until it only just fits in the outer case on my Rev 3. The more you can get in there the better I was told. Some say change every year. It only cost pennies.

SSSSSHHHHHH! Don't mention that unless you want to be riding with a catalytic converter weighing lots within the next few years!

I use 60:1 = 16ml oil per 1000ml of petrol. Same for both oils. Castrol Technical told me to run A747 on that ratio and I'm scared of 80:1 on the Putoline. I might try though and see it it makes the fragile feeling go away when on the Putoline? Both oils though do the job. I think the feeling is me not so much the mix. I'm an old "oil and grease is cheap" kind of fellow.

That was a joke.

Old magazines is what use. Just gaffer tape them around your legs. Not so good when wet though!

All the modern era bikes are small as they are made to be compact as possible but still meet the minimum weight requirements for comps. If you have the dosh then buy as new as poss. I got my rev3 and it has been very tough and reliable so far. Really happy with it. If your low on cash buy the best condition you can find from someone who used it for comps (they get looked after). You can always buy higher bars etc if you need to make a bike more spacious. Firmer springs are also easy to find for your given weight. Trials is not a massive sport anywhere from what I can see. Loads of info/answrs on here though. Hail the net!

I use my kids Disney stickers - their free!

I use two oils. Both at 60-1 or 16ml of oil per litre of Tesco 99 Ron petrol. 2007 Rev3 200 1. A747 - Holidays and high days. I use it when doing trail/road work as the motor gets hot and burns it off. The bike runs really smooth, strong and creamy but you do need heat so using it all the time is probably not good if you ride in a compact area in 2nd gear with no revs from what I read on here. My practice area is 2 miles away and I get to clear the bike motor of any build up of oil. I ride for 2 hrs (low speed) and hoon it home agin getting the motor hot to burn an A747 build up off. No oil has the whiff like this! 2. Putoline strawberry stuff - Trial comps, cold days or long day outs with a group (in case you need to blag fuel). In a trial you often are waiting to get into a section, riding up a stream or chugging around at low revs nearly all day. The "trick" synth oils do burn off better and give a cleaner motor for this style riding. Makes my beta power snappy and the engine feels rattly and fragile. It does run ever so clean though on this oil. When I ride to my practise area the bike feels weak and as a result I take my time. You'll never have a bearing go or seize with A747 but you do need some heat from time to time. Its cheap if you go to Thunderoad Motorcycles in Bridgend - £8.00 per litre. They will put it in the post if you live elsewhere. Putoline fully synth (other brands are available) will do everything apart from smell nice once burnt. You will have no issues either unless your jetting is way out or you abuse your motor. YOU MUST NOT MIX A747 FUEL WITH A FULLY SYNTH! Use your tank up (either mix) and fill with the changed fuel and ride till used up - do not let new added fuel sit in the garage for week inside the tank. I have never had a clog doing this. Trials bikes are delicate little things compared to an MXer and as a result need finesse and respect. If wide-open-throttle-front-wheel-skimming-the-ground is your bag then you may have the wrong bike and not enough oil in your mix. If you need some quick squirts of full throttle to get up a ledge or short climb then 60-1 or leaner if you wish will be fine. Afterall, how many people have you seen seize a well ridden and maintained bike at a trial? Bottom line? If your not a fiddler/fettler use a fully synth! If you like the good old days have a splash of A747 from time to time -mmmmmmmmmmmmmm. Just like the old GP bikes.

I always slide up the dust wipers afet a ride and leave them up till next time. This lets the seal retaining clip area dry out and lets you do the feeler gauge trick to clean them both out (seals and wipers). Once cleaned, bounce the forks up and down to settle them and get a good seal again. Wipe the legs clean and bounce again - you should get no oil on the legs. Leave the wipers up and let the whole job dry out during the week. Mine are the original seals and wipers from 2007! The wipers and seals will be repalced this year for the winter as my wipers are just beggining to get to the point that dirt can make its way past - probably explains why I need to clean the seals and wipers every ride. 10 mins in the workshop and they both last a long time. I'm not a fan of covering up forks as you can't see any issues soon enough and it creates a damp atmosphere behind them. As for the brake a little maintenance goes along way - strip & clean out with an airline or clutch/brake cleaner. Re build the components using waterproof greas such as Silkolene R2 (which you use for swingarm bearings etc). Do this after really wet and muddy trials (or a full on pressure wash) and it will last a long time.

New one fitted last night. All working as normal. £87 not bad when you think I now have a spare lever, seals, plunger, cap, diaphram, lever adjusters, and attachement bracket and bolts!

Anyone know a trials bike breakers?

Mine has broken where the lever bolts in. Gutted!!! The lower tab has snapped clean off so I need a replacement. New ones are £87.00! Anyone know of a second hand one floating around or should I bite the bullet and replace the whole assembly and get anoth 5 years or so out the new one?

My experience is always take full wonga. Not part ex unless you know the specific vehicle and it is a dead cert. It never works out out the new owners favour as they always have to "do up" the px machine. Sell - cash - find - buy - enjoy