pindie

Yes. Their called "sig" bottles.

Paioli if its on a rev 3? Back spring, grey shock body. One small allen adjuster at the top and rear of the shock.

Cheers both. Simple tool made, flywheel nut undone! I'll get a puller tomorrow and see if i can get this "fix" completed.

At the moment I am trying to get the flywheel nut off. It is tight as hell. I have ratechet starpped the rear wheel to a plank to try and hold it all tight enough to undo the nut. Any other ideas?

Beta Rev 3 200cc 2007 - Just fitted my rebuilt shock, swingarm bearings etc and went for a ride. Shock and swingarm smooth as silk and really nice. However, just about to get to the good bit of my local route and my bike died like it had been turned off. No issues before and was running as normal. I checked obvious issues etc like fuel and carb probs and no obvious faults so took the plug out. I held the plug on the barrel nuts and kicked the bike over. No spark. I tried other engine parts as an earth in the vain hope I had a poor contact. No such luck and still no spark. Tried spare plug - still no spark. Took the magneto cover off and rusty water and gunge was in there. I am presuming this is my issue and the stator has died due to water ingress and rust? I need to get an extractor to get the steel plate (flywheel weight?) off as one of the allen screws has now rounded out (oh deep joy). Is there a simple step by step guide that any one knows to do this strip/ repair job? Electrics are not really my bag. Do my findings so far point to stator failure? No other issues before. I have also not used the bike in the wet for about six weeks so the water in there was old.

You should only need to clean any throttle tube it if you have had a big off and it got full of mud or you dont know when it was last done. Trouble is bearings degrade over time without you knowing. The bit you clean is the metal handle bar and the inside of the twist grip tube. A quick wipe over and NO OIL! Oil attracts the dirt and makes it rough again. I treat it to a rub with fine sand paper as well if I feel posh.

Coil breaking down when warm? Tried a new plug?

I have the standard non bearing bar ends. I have no issues with the throttle tube as I do clean it after getting back from any ride where the bike is dropped on the throttle side. I whip the tube off and clean up with contact cleaner and put back together. Works nice enough for me. I'd like to try a bearing one though.

Good point. Gearing must be amazingly low?

With those tyres someone was trying to hurt it! Madness. I would not touch it. £1200 I might though.....

It runs backwards?

An easy way to stop it running backwards would be to not push it backwards

It's not something daft like brake pads is it?

You could try this chap as he knows what he is doing. Andy Dawson 07973 628270.

Try two as you can always back it off again. You could also try harder and see what you prefer. Remember weight is based upon what you wear on the bike also. Details on forks are on page 67 of the Rev 3 manual.

Beta Rev 3 200 everytime. I paid 1800 for an absolute minter 2007 last september. Awsome bike.

All done and sorted. Two bits of plastic pipe later and I have got it to not sit on the floor! I'll get hime to test ride it and see where we go. It feels imensley better to me.

The oil was changed by someone else a couple of months ago. The owner of the bike thought it was going to help. It has'nt! Is there a step by step guid anyone knows of?

A mate has an older 99 TXT 270 and the forks are pretty slack. He doesn't want to spend money on springs. Is there a quick fix to add more preload? Can it be done with the forks in the frame?

Nano Trans is well worth the money. It last ages until you get a drop in performance (at least five chnages on ATF). It also comes out still clear when used. I always chnage as soon as the Gbox feels notchy or I can't selct neutral easy at a standstill.

Support your local shop as one day you'll pop in for a crucial part and they won't be there. If you have a shop make sure you set up an online shop as well or you will suffer. Harsh but true.

I've been trying to find someone to re build my Rev3 200 shock. Not one person I have been sent links to wants to know. I am tempted in mastering it myself and opening an online rev3 shock service? To measure/set sag: 1. Wind off all damping so the shock can boing a bit. With you off the bike bounce it up and down by pressing on the seat a few times. 2. Once settled, measure from a fixed point vertically from the axle to the rear mud guard (a dot of permananet marker or tape helps makesure you find the same spot) - write down this number. 3. Put your kit on and get a mate to hold the front of the bike still while you get on and stand in the standing riding position. 4. Get your mate to measure from the axle to the mud guard again. 5. You want this measurement to be no more than a third of the overall suspension travel (approx 150mm at the rear). 6. Loosen the shock spring rings and tighten until when you stand on the bike it settles no more then 50mm ish from the no-rider-on-bike relaxed state. 7. Tighten everything back up that you loosened!!!! 8. Re set the damper rebound until it just takes the edge off the spring return speed. 9. Enjoy! 10. If your about 12-13 stone wind in your fork leg preload by about 4-5 turns from fully out and try 3 clicks in from fully out on the rebound side. You should find this helps a lot. It will also help shift more weight onto the front tyre which helps balance grip and control a lot.

Michelin X11 or X lite. Google the best price and enjoy.

Go for the latest good condition bike you can find. I strongly recomend a Rev3 200 if you want to compete. If you are looking as a play/trail tool find a 250. The 200 is an awesome bike. I whimped out off my Raga rep 300 and it was the best thing I ever did as I can attempt anything on the 200 with reasonable results. In the right hands the bike (200) does anything you ask of it.

If your getting sqeaks just whip your pads out and rub all over with contact cleaner and wire wool. Clean the caliper while your at it as well. Next you want a smear of coppa slip grease on the bach of the pad (make sure your greasy fingers do not touch the pad material). Re fit the pads and grease the main pin/bolt lightly with coppaslip before you pop it in. You will have no more squeaking.