pindie

I agree with NZ Ralphy. Rotate bars forward as safe and comfy to do so. Increase preload on shock. Bend knees and lean into hill climb. Careful with your throttle. Practice practice practice.

I think with linkless systems i.e. Beta Rev 3 it is crucial to have the right static or free sag. Mines doen by eye,feel and rough measurements for my weight etc. I've not found any listed setting yet on the web.

Time to wind up your rear spring a tad?

You need a teeny bit of "free" or static sag. I may be wrong but try and wind the spripg back so you get 15-20mm static sag. You are right though, by adding tension to your spring it makes the bike much more lively. I tweaked a mates 1999 TXT 270 today by winding up the speing tension - he is over the moon, literally! Before it was totally dead and lifeless Now it is zebedy. Remember one rule though. ALWAYS RIGHT DOWN WHAT YOU MOVE AND BY HOW MUCH! If you don't you can't put it back to what you knew before.

Sorry to hear about your friend. I never said suck petrol? And the reason you use a long clear pipe (1.5m) long is so that you can stop in plenty of time. As always always use extreme caution.

I'll try them all!

This is getting annoying. I contacted Lampkins re a shock re build on my 2007 Rev 3 200 and the reply came " he no longer works here, we can't help". I had a couple of leads on here re alledged shock repair people but I keep getting the same reply - "ooo, not sure about that one". Does anyone know of a company that can without doubt re build my shock? The other option is a replacement. Any ideas on what, where from and how much?

I just run the A747? I don't seem to get the same problems as everyone else. I do put a tank or two of Putoline strawberry stuff in if I am going out with the boys sometime but thats only if I doubt fuel range etc so we can share fuel. I also get it hot at least once a ride. I think these two processes together must help burn off deposits before they form? I fully underatnd that the synth oils are specifically designed for trials use but I do like the smell of A747. I might have to try adding a dollop of castor in to a jam jar with a putoline mix and see if it gells up. If not I might try it.

Sounds like you got air in there somehow. You may have boiled the fluid? Have you tried old fashioned bleeding as well?

Have you got your brakes on?

1. Carb settings may be very rich already and putting the choke on floods it. Follow the Beta carb set up guide on this forum or Google Beta Carb setup rev 3 to get the foat height sorted. I am on the third clip notch from the pointy end of the needle. 2. Bleed your clutch. Suck old fluid out of the master cylinder pot and fill with new. Then place spanner and 1.5m of clear tube over nipple. Attach the open end of pipe near the handlebars. Next just open and close the nipple. Now pump the clutch lever with your hand to build pressure, on the last pump hold the lever in and only slightly and gently open the nipple and 1/8th of a turn, maybe a little more if no movement. As the cyliner is so small it is easy to lose pressure and your buggered. Repeat this process until you see new fluid in the clear bleeding tube. Finsh off job and tidy up. 2b. If bleeding does not cure it try using Putoline Nano trans oil in the gear box. I'm running it and it is smooth as you like and seems to last a lot longer than ATF or light gear oil before it gets notchy again. 3. I use the same method for brake bleeding as the clutch. Mount pipe from nipple to handle bars and only very slightly ever crack the nipple. If you open it too fast the drop in pressure is hard to get back. Be gentle and patient and it'll bleed ok. The long clear tube is a god send here as you can always for a syringe into the open end of the tube to back bleed or suck etc. I have sucked on the tube myself with my mouth - you can do this as you can see the fluid moving in the pipe and avoid a mouthful.

I've heard bad things on the IRC's. "Make sure it's a Michelin"

One is enough to do a couple of bikes! I use a long piece (1.5m) of clear plastic tube over the nipple. Attach to the nipple to bleed and use a rubber band to attach it to the handlebars. You now have a system where air cant get in and you can see the fluid coming through. Suck out the master cylinder and fill with new fluid. Bleed as per normal. I find that once the pipe is filled up during bleeding it is enough to bleed through air, dirty fluid and new fluid (you will see a colour change).

Spoilsport.

There you then. Save a bit more and go for an 09 Gasser or later?

Got to worth a road test though? Where I often ride lets me wind it on a bit and get my bike hot on the way home. This must be the reason I don't seem to have as many problems using castor oils? I always have some build up but not enough to stop me using the oils (A747). I think carb settings and where you ride plays a big part in how your bike runs on it. I do fully accept though that an oil that is specifically designed for trials will always be the cleanest to use?

I've just read up on this oil and looking at price alone I may be a convert! Fully synth with benefits (smell and protection) at half the cost of A747! WOWEEE! http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&frm=1&source=web&cd=3&ved=0CGwQFjAC&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.opieoils.co.uk%2Fp-69340-shell-advance-racing-m-2t-sae-30-kart-oil.aspx&ei=Vfl_T9DBD_G10QXhmMDmBg&usg=AFQjCNE_GHm8CU3c3x__3Qo3Hp388e7Peg&sig2=OKOQAg_VIiOrJl2VIHZR0w

From my own experience it does seem fairly critical that the set up is right and the mix is right to ensure (reasonably) clean running. Obviously modern fully synths will always be cleaner as this is what they are designed to do. No smell though! Is the shell advance a castor based oil?

Have hand prints in dried pigs blood on your garage door and gates. It keeps everyone away - apart the ******* flies!

I've always heard blood flow is the problem with scaphoid breaks? If you can keep your activity levels (not using the damaged hand thought) this helps overall circulation.

Ha ha. This is the wonder of UK weather. Last week I'm in a T-Shirt and sweating just standing still with a helmet on - this week it is 3 degrees C and rain/snow/sleet. Madness! Would not swap it for the world though.

Once you have it bolted the right way the only thing left is the T piece in the fuel pipe? Check for tightness and no leaks and bang her up and ride!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

My experience is there is no cheap way. Get the real deal once and then clean/grease once a year and they will last a lot longer.

Swarfega TFR in the poches works a treat as a mud stain lifter from ally bits. £7.00 pack turns into 25 ltrs once diluted. Way cheaper than Mucoff for the same stuff. TFR makes bikes look new as all the mud yellow/brown stains rinse off. Then polish with Mr Sheen (plastics) and autosol (ally bits). Apart from the deep scuffs and dents it comes up like new.

Don't use scotch brite! It'll wreck the finish. Use Autosol metal polish. It makes metal bits (especially aluminium) very shiny and clean. I use it on my 5 year old Rev 3 header, mid and tail section and it all looks new.