pindie

It's scary but you can fill with aerosol such as deoderant and light the gas with a taper. BOOM!. It's on the rim. 5 second blast and then light. Do not set fire to your tyre!

I'm loving the black frame! It will all be worth it in the end.

Sounds like an all round suspension re buid is what is required. The shock will be re gassed and return your spring! Go to a trials suspension specialist or post your forks and shock to them. They will rebuild to standard settings unless you are extra heavy? They will ask these questions. It will be like new after!

I have heard about diesel bikes in the war. There is also the new Track Diesel bike. A freakish thing indeed. It uses a smart car engine!

Was the con rod and bearings etc on yours designed to squash ropes as well as petrol and air?

I think it does. I have no physical proof at all but I thought I had a worn piston when I got the bike as it had a rattle (possibly pinking). Since putting the bike on A747 there is no "rattle" and it appears to be creamy smooth all the time. When it was on the Putoline TT strawberry stuff it ran nice but felt edgy and fragile. Does that make sense? It ran fine on the TT and I do see why people use fully synth modern oils. They are the ultimate in clean running etc. However like you I like the smell of the A747 and it seems to do no harm. I also have a 5 rated pug in the bike as well. In theory the hotter 5 plug should burn off any unwanted residue - this I have never suffered from though. Maxima 927 is also worth a look if castor is your way of thinking. It is supposed to be cleaner burning. I think it is cheaper as well. One thing you do need to do though if you change is: 1. Run your current fuel right out of the tank including reserve. 2. No need to take the carb off but remove the drain plug at the bottom. 3. Fill with fresh fuel and your chosen castor oil (A7474 or 927)pre mix at 60:1 or 16ml per litre of fuel. Mix in a seperate container as the castor is trickier to blend into fresh fuel. I use an old plastic fuel can. add oil with a syringe to be accurate. Add relevant amount of petrol and shake well. 4. Ride till it is all used up. This lets any old oils be washed through and burnt off. The reason for this is synth and castor don't mix. Once a tank of new juice has gone through you are good to go.

G Box = any light gear oil or ATF. Pre mix = Castrol A747 at 16ml to one litre of petrol.

Why not put in gear and put the rear brake on? Don't like the sound of rope in my barrel!

I saw that as well. I used to run A747 on an RGV250 race bike I had in the 90's. Never had an issue with pistons, rings etc. I also used the oil in all kinds of MX and enduro bikes over the last 20 years with no issues. I admit these were all on 50:1 but thats still leaner than the 40:1 I have heard mentioned. Castrol gave me excellent advice on using the oil and why it can be run on 60:1 in a trials bike. It's down to film strength of oil over the coated parts which are susceptible to high load and friction. Obviously, the fully synth oils you can buy are simpler to mix, use and get on with but I am a sucker for the glorious smell and silky fueling I get with my Beta using this oil. I mix it with Tesco's momentum 99 or Shell V power which is also a high octane fuel. The same as my Subaru needs. Until I have an issue with an engine part then it seems good oil to me? 20 years and never having a seize or bearing failure I am happy. For the amount of oil you use in a mix it's not expensive at all. I believe castrol. HRC only recomend the oil in Montesa 315R's as well - nothing else. Another factor that makes believe in this oil as a premix oil is I did run a YZ 125 for a couple of years. One woods enduro I did I lost all the coolant (I know this as a marshall saw my water pump cover get removed by a large rock in a rut!). I was unaware of this. I rode for a 18 mile lap on a 125 through the woods with long climbs. This was all throttle pinned riding. I pitted and realised my disaster. I packed up and went home to strip the motor and assess the damage. I later learnt the bikes I passed after the rut had all suffered the same fate and were all either seized or very rough sounding engines. On striiping the moter guess what. No scoring in the barrel, no excessive ring wear and no wear in the liitle end or big end. The bike was on 50:1 A747. Testament to the oil or darn lucky. You decide?

Old oils mixing I reckon. Do a few changes and it'll be sweet.

Stick with Michelins. You can't go wrong. Leave the wheel and tyres in a warm place before fitting. If you can do knobs and mooses you will have no problem.

I used the 747 at 40:1 first. It was bad! I then changed to 50:1. Better but not good. I then contacted Castrol direct and asked their techinical section what they recomended. It was 60:1. Apparently the 20% castor oil that is in it has an amazing film strength. This allows you to run 60:1 without any problems. I've not had a marked piston, gummed rings, fuel issues since running on this oil. I also don't have spooge from the pipe. It's not expensive as the amount of fuel it uses is next to nothing. Nothing compared to my 2.5 turbo Subaru. Now that is expensive on fuel!

A tidy 315 has a very good reputation. Any bike will break if abused.

I used the TT pro at 16ml of oil per litre of fuel. This is the same as I used with all oils and not had an issue. I think this is about 60-1. I am using A747 at the moment with much better results. Less smoke, smoother running, better smell. I was worried about the oil "dropping" out the mix but I made a mix and left it in a clean milk bottle. The oil stayed mixed even after a week in the beer fridge! I always turn my fuel off when I finish riding and I always slosh the tank (brake on and dive forks up and down) for a minute before fueling up for next ride. No issues at all. HRC recommend Castrol A747 and nowt else. There is also Maxima 927 which is similar but apparently runs cleaner. I have no experience of this oil though.

If you want a board but no light try here? http://www.saundersextremesports.co.uk/product.php?id=1223658632&parent=110

I'd say yes if it all works. Give everything a good wobble and shake. Any bad rattles, bits not working or hanging off then bargain. Hard! As long as the bike appears to be in good nick then you should be fine. Find out if the owner is an enthusiast and that the bike has not been used as a field hack or toy.

I had a Gasser Raga 300 until the Gbox expired. V expensive to fix as needed new cases. So much for bling. I now have a Beta Rev 3. Its been great. No problems other than the operator. If I suddenly come into money the the Ossa TR280 Ti is the one for me.

Oop north they like Gas Gas as their shiny and bling. Daarn Saarf they like cutting edge contemporary design and have deeper pockets. In Wales we get whatever does the job well. In Scotland it has been said that by the time the deal has been completed and the haggling stops the bike is three years old so cheaper and the cheapest will do. In all honesty. I haven't a clue. I think most people across the UK buy whatever they can afford and what they want. Some people just like to try everything and some stick with what they know.

You are using fresh fuel aren't you?

two other free ones which are very good as well are: 1. Bike M Turbo. Excellent trials game for free and is hard is latter levels. 2. Trial X. Bit like the Baron but a bit more like supercross on a trials bike.

Oi. Leave Betas alone. Imagine how bad life would if they were blue Seriously though, I reckon all modern trials irons are fairly quiet. Even two strokes if the pipe has been re packed.

I'd have the 315, tart it up where bits are scruffy and run on A747 oil or Maxima 927. It's what HRC recommend for the bike. Mmmmmm, and you get the smell!Treat it to new levers and control pedals/levers etc to remove some of the rattly bits.

As above. Not full beans and not to low in the revs. Pootle around working everything that moves. Check every nut and bolt before, during and after your first several rides.

You will need a gearbox soon then Seriously though, if your snapping front mud guards are you making the bolts too tight? Are the forks twisting in the yokes? Under what circumstances are you going though mud gaurds? If you flip the bike then the answer is don't flip the bike! If it's general riding then it might be worth checking batch numbers with the suppliers to ensure you are not unlucky enough to have one from a rogue batch? Exposure to sunlight and air temperature can also have a big affect on plastics. Are guards breaking in certain weather the manufacturer did not account for?