manz

Air-filter oil doesn't really evaporate. It becomes sticky. Just oil it lightly and let it settle before putting it in the bike. Is your airbox beneath the filter sticky? Too much oil. Stopping the bike stalling it, probably results in revs dropping rather slow before it cuts off - thus dropping fuel pressure and/or discharging the capacitor. Then it would require a kick or two more to start. It's basically just down to physics - there aren't really many sensors on the 4RT (and it doesn't need them). And they would need to be in the programming software as well. a) stall-sensor (cutting the spark when the bike is sideways) engine speed (ignition and somewhat predefined fi) c) throttle sensor Aside from other modern 4-stroke engines, it lacks following sensors: a) Air pressure Inlet pressure c) Air temperature d) Fuel temperature e) Detonation f) Exhaust temperature g) Exhaust O2 levels (lambda) Best way to get it started is to kick it once WOT and then without throttle. This is to flood petrol into the engine (same thing but less fuel if kicking it with just the kill-button)

As an owner of a current (no phun intended) and a past 4RT.. There are rumours of "resetting" the system with the kill-switch and turning the throttle while kicking.. a) The 4RT doesn't have a O2 sensor. It doesn't adjust mixture according to O2 levels. The 4RT ecu doesn't reset using the kill-switch while kicking the biggest issues are: a) people overdoing the air-filter oiling. Or cleaning. people tend to twist the throttle while kicking hard (hence the "slow push" works better) c) problems starting in gear? Check gearbox oil and clutch drag Solution? One or two kicks with wide open throttle, close the throttle and kick again. (or else - check plug (replace), valve clearance, piston clearance)

... and none of theese nice people have never lost their grip running into a step....

Renthal Grip Glue. Using a different "glue" (superglue, paint etc) may either softhen or harden the rubber compound in the grips. Or they may not hold. So just for your own safety - use grip glue. I dont use wire for the grip for the same reason you mention - if there is a spot on the grip to use a wire (like on domino montesas grips) then you could put a safetywire there..

If the idlespeed is set correctly, then the problem is his riding style. In tight spots with the 4rt you have to use the clutch, dont let the revs drop below idle for too long, it empties the condensator and the bike stalls. Imo the 4rt is very easy to ride, when you've learnt to slip the clutch.

I've heard they had too much trouble last time at the border ;-)

I have a 05 4RT. All restrictors out and a fast-action throttle (which results more rpm than usual. I like the snappy feel). And I've used it for abit of trail-riding, playing on mini-mx tracks etc. No problems. It has done over 150 hours. Nothing has breaked "by itself", handlebars, mudguards, footpegs etc in crashes. Regular maintenance, oilfilters and airfilters. Washing and lubing. Haven't even needed to adjust the valves. The engine is getting a new piston during the winter, just to be on the safe side.

But if world-level trials was allowed to evolve naturally, would we eventually have a sport where almost all the sections are potentially life-threatening if a rider makes a mistake? If so, would that make it more attractive to the general public? Because like it or not, evolution has not yet managed to remove the primeval part of the human brain that wants to see carnage and blood. I don't think so because seeing a rider slowly topple off the edge of a 30 foot step is still not as "exciting" as seeing a superbike hitting a tree at 200mph during the TT and exploding in a storm of white-hot shrapnel. I exaggerated the post a bit intentionally. We don't want blood and carnage (for that we have eurosports fight club . What I meant was WTC hasn't evolved to that stage yet, and I hope it never will. But at the moment - it hasn't been too dangerous. Theese guys pretty much know what they're doing. You should let WTC evolve, but you certainly shouldn't let club level trials get "dangerous for the average rider". It isn't fun if your class evolves faster than the majority of the riders. TV coverage helps to introduce the sports to the masses, and would help getting more people to ride. OK so you would have to que abit more at the sections, but you would have more trials. Looking at the amount of kids racing MX and comparing that to how many kids ride trials... And how somebody posted that parents would think trials to be dangerous? Doesn't seem so. I think most of the parents (whos kids ride mx) really don't know what trials acctually is. As the last post, there's no intention to hurt anybodys feelings.

There has been alot of talking about modern trials. The sport should evolve, just like any other motorsport. Limiting bike cc's, changing the compound in the tyres, adding minimum wheight rules, non-stop is like limiting wrc with a 65mph speed limit. (50 on gravel). All other sports have limitations. All other sports feature deaths, serious injuries etc. Serious injuries are very uncommon in trials. Worst crash I've seen was lampkin in duluth 04. Could that have been avoided with non-stop rules? Trials is a "skill sport", where other are more.. speeding sports. (not saying they don't have skills). Just a thought; how would non-stop rules get more publicity/more riders? You can't hop the bike (flipping not counted), allmost everytime you hop, you use your brakes, hence, the bike has stopped), it's a nightmare to mind. Did he really stop or no? It works in the SSDT, where (all?) sections are mostly of rock sections, which are pretty much.. straight. Trials needs more tv-coverage, and you won't be getting that by showing guys on wierd looking bikes in wierd looking outfits running up and down a dry steambed, or zigzaging between trees on a slope. It has to have something special compared to the other sports. It has to look "cool". Precision bike control, hard turns, steps, slopes, water and mud. If you want non-stop to look hard for the mainstream, you have to add really high steps (just like they had). Only thing that has changed, is that the run-up to the steps have shortened. Time limits should be variable: ie, longer sections, more time. The rider shouldn't have to hurry through the section, but otoh, he shouldnt be able to balance before each step for 15 seconds either. All above concerns WTC. Club trials are pretty ok at the moment, with a lot of riders. Club trials should be fun to ride, as nobody is economically dependent on the result. I'd like a few non-stop trials a year, just to make it different. WTC is ment for the true experts. What would be the point in making the sections so easy, that the first 5 guys competes on 1-2 dabs, so that #20 can get through 4 more sections? How many drivers are really able to compete for victory in f1? Didn't mean to offend anybody. Just my personal opinion.

Its prolly some high octane race fuel. Only real advantage would be the possibility to run the engine with even more advanced timing, or higher compression. (higher octane is less prone to detonating). Just my 0.02

I was just digging through old posts I've made... Some things I've learned during the year.. _ALWAYS_ use resistor type spark plugs. For example the NGK BPR series. (I've found BPR6EIX, iridium plugs to be nice - cost a lot, but they will last longer even with bad jetting...). Any other resistor type plug would probably be great as well. The point with resistor type plugs is that an electronical egnition doesnt handle too well with "overvoltage". Ie, if the spark plug doesnt generate a spark the electricity would have to "dispatch" to a different location (grounds through the cdi/coil). I don't say you should change your plug mmediately, but next time get an resistor type plug. Just to be safe... (And the iridium version is really nice to throttle response...) Always disconnect the cdi unit and the coil if you weld on the bike. Just my really bored 0.02

According to eurosport.com, they are on today.

I use dual compound epoxy glue (after a few grips came off in steps which were only with safetywire...). Works well, doesnt dry too fast, but is rock solid. You do however need a knife to remove the grip after this.

Domino throttles with black tube under the grip is slow action. White tube is fast action. Doesnt cost much..

Adding to this, youre probably also running it a bit rich. This can be caused from anything from too much oil in the filter or bad jetting. And the fact that 2strokes needs rpm. It'll clog up otherwise. Clean the filter, repack the rear silencer, put a new plug (ngk's iridium resistorplugs works the best imho) Go for a 6, or a 5 (if it's cold). Either buy a new midsilencer, or blow it out with a heat gun (it will probably start to burn, this is ok. Do it until you see the grid in the muffler glow. Let it cool down. Get a used clutch/throttle cable, pass it through the muffler, attach it to a electric drill, and pull the strings apart on the end, on the other side of the muffler, start the drill, and pull it back and forth a couple of times. Then blow the carbon out with pressured air. Get good new gas, mix it 80:1 with a good full syntetic oil. Run the engine warm, and go and bash it on the road. Its hot enough when it starts to emit blue smoke. Dont overrev it, just run it with power&resistance at top gear. Reving it up on the spot helps in the section, to burn the oil in the chamber, but it doesnt "clear it out". If it doesnt start running good (ie, revving nicely, doesnt "bog") then its time to lean the mixture. Start with the mixture screw/air screw. If this doesnt help, try leaning the pilot abit. Then lower the needle etc (good topics on jetting here at the forum). Almost all 2-stroke trials does pink abit when running good (running on 98 octane "premium" fuel) , when doing a climb and letting of the gas. (esp. Montesas) Spark plug color doesnt really tell if its running lean or rich in theese machines, because they are ridden mostly with wery little throttle) so they get black anyway. It's normal for the machine when hot to pink one/twice when revving it up on the spot and quickly turn off the throttle. If its pinking all the time, richen the mixture. As a sidenote, when the machine is running good, dont push it on the road. It will detonate and there is a chance that it will seize. Remember to once a while clear it out on the road, and repack the rear silencer. It's also good to get the gas from a busy station (as the gas there prolly hasnt sat in the tank too long). Dont mix/buy more than you can use in a week. Preferably, use a metal cannister. They're better than the plastic ones. Just my 0.02