jmck

Where in NC were you riding?

We are a new OSET dealer and have been having a blast with the little things. Good overall quality, great dealer / customer support, I think you will be very happy with your choice.

The club is currently looking for more riding areas to hold events, and we hope to find a new spot around the Asheville/Henderson locales. We have a total of four new areas, including CCTC and we are in the process of setting our schedule for 2009 now. As these dates and locations are finalized I will put them on the MTR site, so keep checking it from time-to-time. We will be going with the AMA next year so we can co-sponsor events with the STRA and ITSA folks.

Just another reminder about this weekends two-day trials in Monroe, NC. The rental bikes are going fast, but we still have a couple for Saturday left. I can't wait to watch the little guys on the OSETs' compete! If we get enouph partication, we may even have our own OSET class championsip in 2009.

Yes, we do. Basically we are using the novice line with "ride around" options over some of the more difficult obstacles in the section. You have the option of either line, or any combination of. We really want to have sections for you guys that are challenging, yet "motorcycle friendly" for your vintage iron. We hope to improve every event, and welcome all of your comments, good and bad, so we can make the next event even better for you. Hopefully over the course of the year, we will have enough vintage participation that we need all seperate sections just for the twin-shock bikes. I have talked with the folks at ITSA, and we are planning to co-sponsor an event with them next year (which includes for us a change to an AMA charter) in an attempt to hold even higher quality events.

I have found over the years that even "lightly tapping" a crankshaft in place can knock it out of "true", if even only slightly. If you don't believe it, put the crank in a truing jig, record the measurements, tap into the bearings, then remove it and check the measurements again on the truing jig. They will be different.

Just a quick invite to anyone in the area to come out to our first two-day trials event on November 15th and 16th. Should be a great event, with something for everyone!

Glad that was the problem and not the fan! Good luck with your new bike, I think you will really like it.

You won't have to loosen all of them, but you may have to remove the nipples from several spokes to allow enouph room to install the new one.

Bullit all the way...

Thanks everyone! I am looking a 1983 240 and before I bought it I wanted to make sure that parts are availble.

Are parts readily availble for Fantic trials bikes produced in the eighties? Engine parts, plastic, cables, etc.?

They are asking $3,895.00, and it sounds like it is completely stock. My initail thought is they are asking quite a bit for the bike, but I am unsure.

There is a 65 Triumph Cub advertised locally here in 'good' condition; what would the approximate value be for one? I would like one to compete with, but have no idea what to pay for one.

Go Ronnie Go!! Outstanding job young man! Yes, the Commos's are a class act, and make me proud to be a Beta dealer.

My 08 250 came with 11/41, and the 08 125 came with 9/43 stock.

Thanks again guys! Cool stuff!

Thank you my friend, I will get you some flyers if you would be kind enough to hand them out for us, courtesy of the good Sherco folks!

Duh! Thank you very much for the invitation. It sounds like a great opportunity for us to get the word out and we will graciously accept your invitation.

Where in Florence?

The three sets of main bearings I replaced last month were very noisy when the bike was running, (you could even hear the noise when spinning the engine over by hand with the spark plug removed). All three were rusty. One engine, (a 2005 2.5) the nylon bearing cages were in multiple pieces. Due to the amount of silicon gasket material in the engine and sloppy workmanship I believe that this was at least the second time that this particular engine had been apart. The other two engines were both 2006 2.9

Sherco's are prone to main bearing problems, I have replaced three sets of them last month in the shop. I do not think it is necessary to run with the choke on prior to shutting the engine off, this will actually cause more problems in the long run. I would definitely switch to a fully synthetic two-stroke oil though. Another thing to watch is to make sure that when you periodically start the engine, make certain that it gets completely up to operating temperature before you shut it off; if possible ride the bike around for a little while, otherwise condensation will form in the engine. Our Beta's all come with sealed main bearings from the factory and I have never seen water related problems with them, so that may be something to try as well.

Spend the money and purchase a good torque wrench and then take care of it; try to check it's calibration at least once annually. Also, remember that unless otherwise noted, all printed torque values are for dry threads, and since no fasteners on your motorcycle should ever be assembled dry always reduce the max printed torque setting by 18 ~ 25% depending on the lubricant used. This includes thread locking agents as well.

Thanks Murray! We need the interest and enthusiasm of riders in the area to make this thing work. Check back in to the web site early next week, we should be ready to start getting people registered and up to speed on what is going on in the club. I hope that we get a lot of interest from you twin-shock guys, and we want the events to be fun and challenging for everyone. My son competes on a 2008 250 Beta now, and I recently purchased a 1975 KT-250 Kawasaki for him to play on.

3-IN-ONE (brand) oil is a light general purpose lubricant that has been around forever. I remember my father using it on just about everything 40 years ago. It has a pretty neat drip-spout for getting oil in tight spots without a mess or a lot of waste. If your cables do not have a teflon liner, it is important to clean and lube them on a regular basis, preferably using a cable-luber to make the job easier and to do it right. Cables should have a light weight lubricant to keep them operating smoothly, especially in colder weather. Realistically though, if you clean them when they start getting a little sticky, almost any kind of oil will work fine. Copper grease, a small dab of wheel bearing grease, etc. work fine for the cable nipples, and cleaning them on a regular basis is important also.