moment88

See comments and questions in the "Yamaha" section, thread "TY80 Starts when cold, won't start when warm"

Interesting responses, and I thank you all. I have not had time to try replacing the condenser that I got (points not even a year old) yet but I wanted to direct your attention to some supporting comments I found from another thread on this same site. Look at comments #10 & 11 in the "Twinshock" section under the sub topic "Problems with Amal Carb?" It is almost word for word.

Restored a TY80 for my son last winter. Recently, it has developed a puzzling little problem. It starts up and runs fine when cold, but after it is warmed up, if it is shut off for a short break (or he stalls), it will not fire back up again. Kicking, choke, no choke, bump-starting, throttle, no throttle, nothing works! After sitting for a half an hour or so however, it will then fire right back up again. Any thoughts on what I should be looking at first? I was wondering about the condenser; if bad, would it create a symptom like that? One other question, do you know what the proper torque setting is for the cylinder head nuts? I'm thinking maybe loose head? According to the manual they should be at 1 m/kg which converts to about 7.23 ft/lbs (right?). That seems awfully low to me, isn't it? Am I converting correctly? What do you guys tighten to? Any help with this would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Matthew

Really? I was just kind of "grabbing at straws" with that idea out of complete frustration. What happens, does the resin start to break down and dissolve into the gas? Have you actually heard of this happening before? Is there anything I can do such as a Kreem type sealer/coating?

1974 Montesa Cota 247 21M12797. Last season, I had my first real problem since purchasing this bike in 1978. The idle started to

David: I think your suggestion of the inspection of the crank seals is a very worthwhile endevour. You know how time passes, and maybe I haven't checked (or replaced) them as recently as I think I have. A few years back, I had a guy in Arizona (3C carbs?) re-sleeve my Amal body and slide with brass to reduce the inevidable "Amal" wear, but evidendtly, he went out of business, which leads me to believe that maybe that wasn't such a good idea (or, just not profitable). It was supposed to correct that problem of excess air leakage around the slides of Amal carbs. It is ironic that you recommended Hugh's Bultaco only because his establishment happens to be in the same state that I live in. Small World huh? Matthew

At the risk of being accused of overthinking this situation, I have to say that upon reflection, I am still not completely satisfied with the proper clutch adjustment procedures recommended thus far. The clutch adjustment screw is in direct contact with the clutch push rod. Therefore, is it not true that if the adjustment screw were to be turned in too much or too little, that the separation of the clutch plates would be directly effected? In other words, if the adjustment screw was turned in too far, wouldn't that allow the clutch plates to slip? Or conversely, wouldn't not enough clearance cause difficult shifting? If true, this would negate the idea that the sole purpose of the adjustment screw was for the alignment of the clutch arm (forgive me Bigwig, correct me if I'm wrong). Thoughts and opinions welcomed. Matthew

I have a '74 Montesa Cota 247. I have owned it for approximately 28 years. After many years of mediocre service, my Amal carb began to give me serious problems at my last trials event. I am running with the stock Amal carb (rebuilt, in great condition). At the previously mentioned event, the throttle response deteriorated rapidly as the sections clicked by. It took longer and longer for the revs to fall as the day went on. It was not a hot day. By the third loop, I could barely maintain "3's" and control the bike, as the lingering revs would propel me MUCH farther into a turn than I anticipated. I am aware of the consequences of over tightening the carb flange mounting bolts resullting in a "warping" of the slide chamber. I did not do that. My throttle cable was not kinked or binding. The mounting flange has been "surfaced" to reduced the possibility of any air leakage. It has new gaskets and o-rings. I am now giving serious consideration to defecting to a Mikuni carburettor. Does anyone have an opinion on this or any experience with making such a switch? How about jetting? How do I know where to begin? Finally, will I be able to procure a non-spigot mount Mikuni the correct size for this machine? Suppliers or sources? Any thoughts or advice on this matter would be greatly appreciated. OR, does anyone have any ideas on how to make the stock Amal a worthy component on my machine? Thanks, Matthew

Dan Williams: The fuel line in carb is a great idea! Just in time for me, as I have spent the winter rebuilding a TY80 for my 8 year-old son and have been anxious about the upcoming spring and his first ride with the bike. Would you mind giving me more details as to how exactly you went about doing the modification i.e., did you route the throttle cable through the fuel line, a good starting line length etc? I could experiment, but since you've already done it, why re-invent the wheel as they say? I have purchased (yet to install) a tether switch as well, but this sounds like very good insurance against the more serious bodily damage. P.S. tried to send this message directly to you but was told your "inbox" is full. Thanks, Matthew

Thank you very much for the clarification/correction. I'm glad you chimed in as the procedure Max described was not sounding clear to me. I do understand what you are saying and it does makes sense. So really, the screw doesn't have so much to do with adjusting the clearance between the arm and the rod but more for the positioning of the arm itself? One question I did have though is what exactly is a "freedom type cable lubricator" that I'm not familiar with. I have a device that clamps to my cables which allows me to "inject" aerosol cable lube into the sheath of my cables, is this the type of device you are referring to? Thanks again, Matthew

Just to clarify, am I screwing the adjuster against the clutch push rod and then backing it off or, am I screwing it away from the rod fully then turning it back toward the rod a half a turn? The worm gear has already been cleaned and well lubricated. Thanks for the info. Matthew

I just installed a new, nylon-lined Venhill clutch cable on my son's 74 TY80. I want to make sure the clutch mechanism itself is properly adjusted before adjusting the cable. There is a small phillips adjuster screw with a locknut under the cap on the left side engine cover. It appears to be for adjusting the clutch push rod/mechanism clearance. Does anyone know the proper "setting" and procedure for this adjustment? Thanks, Matthew

I really couldn't find anywhere else to post this question. How do I go about inserting a photograph into a post. Seems like a handy way to make things more clear.

If you don't feel like making your own block off plate, I found one for $10.00 with gasket for an Rd 350 at HVC cycles. It worked perfectly on my TY80. I felt much better getting all the "extra" stuff (gear, shaft, etc.) out of the way. You will have to get a couple of shorter screws however as the original pump scews will bottom out before tightening down the block off plate. http://www.hvccycle.com/yamaha1965to1969.htm Matthew

I don't know what type of paint you're using but for me, I was on a fairly tight budget. I had no choice but to spray the frame myself with a spray bomb. I used Rust-Oleum Metallic brand Silver Metallic and it matched the NOS kickstand I had very closely. I didn't use a clear top coat, I think in hind sight I should have. It looks damn good for a "home spray" though. Much better than the ridiculous red the PO painted it. I'm new to this sight, as soon as I can figure out how to post photos, I'll put some up of my progess. I started my restoration in November, mine is about 85% done. Matthew