renegade

I got going on a trials bike at the end of last year, and having realised that riding an old Fantic 200 was fun but heavy going for a 46 yr old I now have and enjoy a Scorpa 250. I have a fully equiped workshop and bike transport, and a practice ground. I am looking for a practice pal who would like to share the falling off and looking daft bit, and perhaps would like to join me in the comps I go to and visa versa etc.. I am a membr of the Stratford on Avon Club and have my evenings and weekends to practice and can easily arange weekdays now and then as I run my own business. If your intersted give me a call. 07501474974 I look forward to hearingfrom you. regards John

Hello all Just thought I stick in my bit as someone who sub-contracts a factory in China and is a developement engineer. The Chinese have been getting the "Cheap Chinese" label for some years, sadly it is a title earned after years of providing cheap copies for unscrupulous Europeans and Americans who were looking for cheap imitations of just about everything form the kitchen sink to a space ship. The last of which belonged to the Chinese and ascended into space only a week or two ago, and without the problems the Americans or dare I say the Brits tend to regularly experience, didn't we lose something very expensive on Mars recently. If I were Sherco my biggest concern would be that the Chinese bike was a better quality, through experience I can tell you that you get what you pay for in China and the quality can be exceptional if that

Eureka moment I have been working on this problem for a while and finally I have the reason why this happens. Basically take all the things you have read about sorting out the Scorpa clutch issues in the past and keep them in mind as they are all valid. However I have missed out one thing that came to mind when I was told of someone putting a nut on the wrong side of the lower clutch adjustment. Bending levers. The common comment was that it all happened after falling off. The answer is that the lever bends away from the handlebar creating a slightly longer stroke of the lever than should be, therefore too much adjustment. If the lever is bent towards the handlebar this produces not enough adjustment, hence putting the nut on the wrong side. The lever should be almost straight and not pointing forward or backwards. Wind the top clutch lever adjuster right out till it has no effect on the clutch adjustment and is slack. Pull off the slave cylinder dust boot and pull the clutch lever in until you can see the shoulder of the slave piston behind the spring clip, you will need a lamp to see this detail, (NOTE: the lower adjuster should have about 3mm of thread showing). Try to leave about 1mm of space between the shoulder of the piston and the spring clip, put a cable tie around the clutch lever to keep it in this position. Now look at the space between the lever and the handlebar. If you have any space the lever has been bent away from the bar during your little mishap. If you have not been able to see the piston reach the 1mm from the spring clip it has been bent towards the handlebar. Make a mental note of how much you need to straighten it (keep the cable tie you may need it again) remove the lever and heat it up before bending straight. Try a little at a time. Having done this I now have a sensible adjustment range both top and bottom and it works perfectly. A last word of warning, I think my bike has had a new clutch lever at some point and that may not have had exactly the same lever angle as the original so I wouldn't just count on a new one being as it needs to be on the bike. I hope this helps fix your problem and would appreciate hearing you comments. Regards John

Hi Graham I had similar problems with my Sy250 04 clutch. Again they came immediately after falling off and confused the hell out of me. Firstly the likelyhood of finding a bleed nipple are slim, its a self priming system and you should avoid removing it from the bike if possible. I will assume that you have figured out how to get to it all by removing the airbox cradle, swinging back the rear shock and removing the carb. Several things to check/do 1 You have a circlip in the slave cylinder. It may have been lost or broken when he fell off. 2 To prime the system you have filled the reservour and place the reservour and lever below the height of the slave cylinder, pump fluid through the system with the slave piston out and secure the clutch lever in the closed position, then slightly release the pressure on the banjo joint at the reservour - insert the slave piston and push it in as far as it will go and hold it there (you may need help) then tighten the banjo bolt again, reinsert the slave cylinder circlip. reinstall lever on the bike. No need to remove slave cylinder from the bike. 3 Leave overnight with the bike upright. 4 Check that the clutch lever has slack when in the released position, ie. it is not under any pressure to the master cylinder when fully released. If it has no slack when fully released the quantity of fluid in the system is increased slightly with each stroke of the clutch lever and eventually the slave cylinder will jam against the circlip. Then when you fall off the circlip is shoved out/broken and the slve cylinder gets jammed. I'm not sure where you are but I have had a similar problem with mine in the past, and I will be pulling mine apart later this week having bent it at the weekend if you feel its worth the trip to see what I mean. regards John

Thanks Arnoux Got the bike sorted now, clutch working just fine and thanks to Hell Team for the information. I am now in a meaningful realtionship with my machine and had a faultless trial on Sunday as far as machine reliabililty is concerned. The rider (me)however did not do so well. That'll teach me not to ride a level higher than I'm used to. regards

Sorry for the delay in my reply, I've been away for a few days. Its manufactured and sold under the following companies products JB Weld http://www.jbweld.net/products/uses.php Part No. 8277 its called waterweld on this site you can even use it in a wet fuel tank. I purchased mine through Silverstone factors at Silverstone. But you can buy it online. regards renegade

There is a two part plastic bonding developed for bumpers, mudguards and fairings, its also suitable for fuels. Its called B2. Mix it 50/50 and it goes of to the touch in about twenty minutes, leave it for 24hrs and you can sand and paint it. Its realy tough and normally prodces a fix stronger than the original nylon or plastics, sadly only in black. The only other solution I have used in the past and found it worked realy well on a fuel tank was fibreglass. More work and preparation but its pretty permanent.

Hi Arnoux and thanks for your reply. I got most of my information for the engine from www.thehellteam.com thank god forAustralians. Even though the engine manual depicts a cable operated clutch and not hydraulic as fitted. Its just a pity that France is only a 26 miles away from the English coast and you have to talk to someone or acess a website on the other side of the planet to get a sensible answer. I'm a cosultant engineer who loves his Scorpa, but if Scorpa came to me with a business proposal or a technical proposal I would have to turn then down on the basis "lack of technical support", at least one of the dealers on the website does not exist and another no longer supports Scorpa. Those that exist say the part numbers in the manuals no longer match those from stock and with no update bulletins its a bit pot luck. It costs nothing to post the previous manuals alongside the present by year of manufacture. Then we could see changes and modifications and clearly identify variations in components. If it is available to the Australians why not the manufacturers website. Most of the links on the Scorpa technical sections are missing, even if the links are shown they just sendyou back to the home page and tell you te page is not available. Please don't give me the language barrier as an excuse the engine manuals were all originally written in English, and some of us are fluent in technical French. I tried to order a CD and was informed by a "UK Scorpa Dealer" that it is a "user manual not a workshop manual and as such is useless". The original user manual I have in hard copy, its for numpties. I,ve just sold my Fantic 200, and I found it easier to obtain parts and information on a 25yr old bike than a 3 yr old bike. Beggars belief. Piti

HAM 2 Thanks for your response, I checked the link you sent and I found a similar issue when reasembling. I think its a question of using the adjustment available for what it is intended. As the slave cylinder has only closed and open (fixed quantity of fluid delivered by master cylinder on each stroke) and all the adjustment is on the lever arm. Therefore adjust the lever arm settings to the point they make no real effect on the clutch this gives the space to set the clutch lever on the bars. Then adjust the lever arm adjustement on the slave cylinder to gain the desired effect on the clutch. Add to this some personal fine tuning and bobs your aunt. Cheers mate thanks for replying, I was beginning to think I was the only Scorpa owner on planet earth. I am going to talk to Scorpa about getting some pukker workshop manuals on a website somewhere, they are available for just about every other make of trials bike why not Scorpa?

OK I have news for Scorpa owners Removing the clutch lever arm is simple, getting to it is a bit more of a problem. rear mudguard off, tank off, air box off, rear shock top bolt removed and shock rolled over to rear tyre, exhaust centre and rear boxes removed, coolant drained, rear brake lever bolt removed to allow clutch case to pass, kick-starter removed, clutch casing removed, clutch bolts and springs removed (make sure you have the torque settings and the torque wrench if you are going to attempt this), As there is now no pressure on the clutch springs; the clutch lever arm will now rotate 270deg and lift straight out. Lubricate the new clutch lever arm (see Yamaha engine manual - http://www.thehellteam.com/) and insert, rotate round to correct position and refit clutch springs and bolts, torque set the bolt!!! Check the clutch lever arm is engaged, reasonable pressure applied with a strong thumb will open the clutch plates, be very careful not to bend the new clutch lever arm. Reassemble in reverse. Comments; 1 - Some have suggested repairing the clutch lever arm, looking at mine the metal fatigue that has caused the split in the weld between the shaft and the lever arm has resulted in a stress weakened lever arm and it

I have recently purchased an SY250R I am not sure where you are but if you would like to see mine (Buckingham) (I paid

My sy250r has a faulty clutch lever arm, (Thats the bit that that links the slave cylinder to the clutch push rod inside the engine), the crank on the top has slipped around the shaft and when you apply the clutch lever pressure it does not clear the clutch sufficiently, it has been adjusted to the limit, i.e the slave piston reaches the point that "O" ring is exitng the cylinder and causes loss of fluid. I have the new components and will do the job in the morning, Scorpa workshop manuals are notoriously non existent and the website is useless. Has anyone pulled one apart before to do this repair? It's propably fairly straight forward but without a manual any advice would be appeciated. Or just as good does anyone have a workshop manual that is realy a workshop manual and not something poorly copied from a website in Outer Mongolia and sent by pidgeon to someone in Texas and then faxed to a blind man in Nigeria which he sold on Ebay? Any help much appreciated. Kind regards John

Try this for size. Went to the Carol Nash website and got a quote.

Cheers Mikee It seems like we,ve been heading in the wrong direction (north) when we should have been going South West.

New to Trials central so if I've plonked this in the wrong place please excuse me. Just thought those of you looking for a trip away that might mean taking the rest of the family along, and still getting some great trials fun in too. Would like to know more about this place. My missus can't stand bikes, might be something to do with looking at me lying in a road surrounded by paramedics four years ago while 6 months pregnant. (before you all start, I was going very slowly when I hit the diesel slick, and even slower when I came into contact with the roundabout and the bike was OK anyway). I have a four year old daughter who, if you've got one needs a lot of entertaining. My missus can never make up her mind where she want's to go on holiday, so this year I made up her mind for her, and booked a week at Colwith Trials Holidays in Cornwall, four miles from he Eden project. Generally we don't like built up places, and holidays are usualy on a remote island in Scotland with no electricity. So we were pleasantly surprised to find Colwith is in the middle of knowhere. It's quiete and peaceful, only 20 minutes from most of Cornwalls most famous atractions, the pubs have great food and the restaurants go from cheap and cheerful to Michelin Star rated. The walks in the 30 acre trials wood are amazing surrounded by bluebells and wild animals like deer and butterflies. The accomodation and lock up for the bikes are second to none, just like being in an expensive