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It's been posted before in this forum, but, again, figures from Montesa Manual Standard torque values M5 bolt 5Nm or 3.5 lb.ft M6 bolt 10Nm or 7 lb.ft M8 bolt 22Nm or 16 lb.ft There are exceptions where higher figures are used, eg bearing sets, sprocket bolts. Some torque wrenches show settings in several different units. Check which units you are using too not just the number and try and understand them,. No torque wrench was ever set to 16 pounds/ sq. ft Also you say the broken bolts are 8mm, standard is 6mm, could you be confusing the size of the hexagon head with the diameter of the threaded portion of the bolt? Says something about the aluminium cases and the length of thread if you're snapping the bolts rather than stripping the threads out.

Plug too long?

Trialsbits do them

The Renthal R1 chain is manufactured by Regina, but Regina do not market an identical chain. I use Renthal R1, don't think you can get better.

A similar method used to be quite common here, an adapter was made for the tow bar, you removed the front wheel and chain from the bike and used the front spindle through the adapter to mount the forks onto the tow bar. Could pull two bikes that way. Don't know if it was outlawed or just fell out of favour

Borrow a carb from someone else, one that is known to work well enough on an engine of the same size. I say this because the Dellorto I borrowed from a pal that worked well on his 199cc Cub was useless on my 246cc Cub You say the bike oils the plug and appears to run rich. These are 2 different faults, are you sure you have both? A bike oiling the plug will be burning large quantities of oil and will produce a large amount of blue smoke at all times, especially when hot and after it's been idling for a while. This is normally caused by a worn piston / barrel, worn valves / guides, or blocked breather. A bike running very rich will have a black sooty plug that soon fouls / misfires, it will tend to produce black smoke, especially when accelerating , or blipping the throttle quickly, it will run poorly all of the time once warmed up. A bike burning an embarassing amount of oil can often still run well though it may be a little down on power, I'd guess you are suffering from overly rich carburation hence the suggestion to swap carbs with someone.

Results on front page updated with photos taken by Hilary Little

I think you got the severity just right, though I was surprised at how the sections roughed up towards the end of the trial, normally a path forms through scree sections as the rocks bed down, instead these became significantly more difficult, but, there was nothing dangerous or potentially damaging in any of the sections, you could foot your way through all of them. What did put me off was the lack of observers. It's not something I'm comfortable with at all. Marking yourself or your mates spoils the flow of the trial and there is less pressure on the riders as it feels more like a practice than a competition. I counted 8 spectators already at the first section when I got there, but only one part time observer in the entire trial.

You need an SBR (Styrene-Butadiene) O ring Most other common o ring materials deteriorate when presented with brake fluid.

So, can you strip the ethanol out of the fuel using water? Just thinking of using a big glass jar like a demi-john, putting some water in, mixing the fuel with it, letting it settle, then siphoning the 'clean' fuel off the top, chuck the rubbish away. Don't use a gallon a trial so not a lot of effort, but, will it work?

Best though, do both Get it blasted back to bare aluminium, then immediately paint it black before oxides get in the way

Are all of the engine mounts (including this one) tight? and I mean really tight

What a good idea!

Yep, that's why we need to see them on the TC calendar Where's Gorebridge?

Wouldn't hurt to put them on the Trials Central calendar too

OK, I just report written info As I understand it, the following dates have been assigned to clubs by the NE ACU: 06.04.12 Stanley. 08.04.12 Durham County (Championship trial) 09.04.12 Bedlington I Believe Good Friday is the 6th April and Easter Monday is 9th April Think I'll wait a couple of months before I sit down and start typing events into the TC calendar

OK, I've got a list to look at. Centre championship trials dates and hosts are: 01.04.12 Bedlington 08.04.12 Durham County 29.04.12 Seaton Delaval 20.05.12 Newcastle 27.05.12 "Senior trial" (Weardale) 15.07.12 South Shields 05.08.12 Tweed Valley 27.08.12 "Championship trial" South Shields 02.09.12 Tynemouth 30.09.12 North Durham 21.10.12 Weardale 02.12.12 Castleside 24.03.13 Consett There are 84 trials in the NE Centre in the 12 months from 01.04.12 to 31.03.13 though 2 are Youth Nationals so there is plenty of opportunity to practice. Smallish entries in the last year meant less riders were graded Expert. Ross Bedlington have 2 consecutive dates on 8th and 9th September, 'though I'd have expected them to hold the event at Alwinton like last year rather than Longframlington.

Don't think they're finalised yet Kirk, they run March - March for some reason. Harry Norman normally gives me the list late January / early February and I post them here.

It's because a long pushrod will tend to bow when under load, rubbing against the sides of the tube it is in and increasing friction. Two shorter rods are much stiffer so won't bow as much and won't rub as much, though the ball in the middle will have to rub it doesn't seem to generate as much friction. The mathematical formula still used to determine bow in rods under compression was developed during the 18th century by Leonhard Euler. Don't think he had a BSA though.

I worked my way down from the recommended B7HS (2 sooty plugs per trial)to the BP4HS The 4 is a 'hotter' plug The P is for 'projected insulator' - gives a wider heat range Never change the plug now, just gap it occasionaly

I'd really like an Anglian. Just not at £6.5K

Yep, sounds right. Of course you can deflect the pressure plate with your finger, when the clutch lever is pulled in the plate's only supported in the centre, effectively on a needle point. There are only 3 stabilising springs. A modern engine would have twice as many, or a lovely diaphragm. You've done 2 important things: You've set it so that there is a little clearance in the clutch operating mechanism so that when the clutch lever is released the full force of the springs is applied to the clutch plates, and you've set it so that the clutch pressure plate lifts evenly giving the cleanest clutch action with the least drag. Particularly important for you as your extended clutch arm gives less lift than a standard one Another question, when you extended the clutch arm, did you just cut and extend by welding in a new piece or did you reinforce the arm too?

I don't know if my clutch springs are standard or stronger either. I run the springs as light as possible to reduce effort at the clutch lever Both Windlestone and myself have suffered the central adjuster stripping out of the alloy pressure plate - another reason for keeping the springs light. Plates are branded surflex

Just a thought: Have you got a little bit of free play at the clutch operating arm? If you haven't it doesn't matter much how tight you wind the springs up. I set my clutch up this way: Release the cable at the handlebar lever Turn the central adjuster in the pressure plate clockwise gently until I feel the clutch arm touch the outer cover. Turn the central adjuster 1/2 turn anti clockwise then tighten the lock nut. This gives around 1/2mm free play. Re fit the cable at the handlebar lever and adjust to suit - again a little bit of slack. I then only tighten the 3 clutch springs enough for their heads to clear the inside of the primary cover, but I check that the lift is even using a dial test indicator ('engineers clock')I aim to get the variation at full lift within 0.25mm My Cub is 250cc and I only have to think about clutch slip kicking it over cold, once it's warm I have no problems at all. I haven't seen a Whitton clutch arm, does the increase in length reduce the weight of the clutch significantly?

After a couple of minutes of 'difficult' gearchanges on my 4RT I managed to get it into 1st gear by rocking the bike with the engine off and selecting the gears by hand. Once into 1st it stayed there, the gear lever moves through its normal arc and is returned to the central position by the spring, but no longer feels like it is connected to anything. Any ideas what I should expect to find broken when I strip it?