thedktor

Ah. Yes, look good, expensive though! I will see if simpler methods work first as I doubt I would use such a device again http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/...tive-hand-tools Steve

I would have thought its very unlikely you will find a match as two-stroke pistons are full of very specific ports as you know! Good luck anyway, otherwise you will have to trust the delivery guys.... Steve

Thanks for the suggestions. They are standard ball bearings so they have the advatage that the inner race should move enough to allow "something" to hook behind, and I guess the hydraulic method won't work. In fact it wont, will it! Steve

Ah ! I did wonder !!!!! no worries ....

On my 349 I need to replace the gearbox bearings, two of which are in blind holes.... I have been told to support the case, behind the bearing, heat the case, and jam in the heads of a couple of large nails under the bearing to lever it out. Anyone got any further tips? Thanks Steve

Thanks! Yeah it was very frustrating for a while. Next difficult task needs a new thread... Steve

Taken from another thread, ref my 1980 349: Is this correct, anyone care to expand? just curious. Bottom pic shows the engine mounted chain tensioner, or part of it anyway! Thanks Steve

Well, at least 2 cogs are really bad, will try and post some pics later. It is only a trials bike so I probably could get away with it, but if I could replace some parts I would be happier. Phoned round a few places, only Ellastone were "fairly confident" they have the bits, pending a more thorough search (

Split the cases of my 1980 349, and was more than a little unhappy to find the gears badly corroded and not really serviceable (though they worked ok before the split) Is there any trials bike breakers in the UK? anyone know of anyone breaking a Mont? Thanks for any pointers.... Steve

FINALLY !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Yes the gear came off at last, 3rd attempt. Here's my setup: Note chain clamped round the puller to stop the legs opening, and I used some foil from a pie(!) to shield the crank from the hot-air gun to try and stop it heating up as much as the gear. The puller was as tight-as, creaking alarmingly, and then just kept tapping the end with a hammer, loosening again so the legs could clamp up tight again, as even with the chain clamped tight they were moving out a little with the knocks, then tapping some more. And off she pops, after some time! Blimey, that was hard work

Thanks! I only needed a rough idea, but the model type is good info, cheers Steve

Yes I wouldn't put too much heat into the gear. I'm using a hot air gun so doubt it would get it glowing! I cannot make a puller myself, but the friend I bought the bike off can! so that is the final option.... Steve

Ah fun and games. First attempt with moderate heat and the gear refused to budge. Second attempt today with a LOT more heat, plus freezer spray and the goddam thing still refuses to move! Frustrating to say the least - I have everything else off ready to split the cases. I have paused for now, not really sure what to do, but got a couple of engineering friends to seek opinions from. I have been using a 3-legged puller, with legs strapped together so they can't open up, and done the thing up as tight as possible. Heated the gear, cooled the crank, tapped with hammer on the puller, all the things that would normally move a flywheel.... Steve

Below is a pic of me on my first bike ( ) around 1978/79 - from what I can work out its a '74 model, can anyone confirm? I am 99.9% sure it was left hand gear change. The tank unit had been resprayed, otherwise it was standard apart from some rather odd-looking mudflaps! Thanks for any help Steve

Goddam it yes it was here, on a thread I

I'm sure I read a thread where someone was playing with jets to get a Montesa running smoothly but I can't find it! Was I imagining it, was it another bike altogether, anyone help as I'm very interested... Thanks! Steve

Yes! Some might say you shouldn't as you can over-torque the nuts, but in this situation I think its needed. Just dont go too mad with the wrench. Steve

I would hae to agree there woody, maybe we are now used to modern bikes, most of which are pretty lively. I had a newish gasser pro 300 which had enough power to get you into all sorts of trouble, but controllable once you got used to it. My brief ride on the Montesa showed perhaps similar power, probably less aggressive. But I also ride a Yam WR450 which puts out enormous power in comparison, so its all relative! Steve

The wheelbase is a puzzle - I have a Montesa Honda manual that states 349 wheelbase as 1310mm (same as 348), but it seems to me that the first 349's had a longer wheelbase 1350mm as mentioned in this very interesting test from 1980: http://motorbikearchives.com/Bike-Tests/Tr...ycle-Guide.html Anyone know more? (i guess I should just measure my 1980 model!) Steve

According to all my literature they both have the same stroke 64mm but the later 349 is 349cc with a 83mm bore and the earlier 348 is 306cc with a 78mm bore. The most obvious difference, as already mentioned, is the earlier 348 has frame members (tubes) under the engine, the 349 has ony an ali bashguard Steve

Here is the nut in question on the 7mm allen key (a brake calliper tool) Slightly clearer pic below - the bottom RH hole still has the drilled out nut down in its depths. The top right is the nut I got out showing how deep it sits - about an inch down. Enjoy!

Agreed, but I will say that this did not work with mine as they were too coroded. My bike had been used as a trail bike, in mud, so I would not expect most bikes to be so bad. The point to make is, take the head off, and try and find some means of scraping the muck/rust from around the nut before undoing... Steve

Thanks for the further tips Tony. Spokerider, yes, in theory! However the nuts fit snuggly and needle nose pliers will not get a good purchase. I'm sure the remains of mine will come out once soaked in fluid for a while - I have half-jammed a drift in them from the other side and bashed with a hammer and they will not budge at the moment! A small expanding bolt might be the answer, and bash away merrily at that. Blimey yes, revenge of the Spanish armada indeed

Yes, agreed! And when using a finger type puller I always clamp the gripping ends so they cannot open up and damage the item being pulled, and/or you

Aha I discovered that yesterday! - very useful. So, my story so far is that the two inlet side "nuts" came off but the exhaust side nuts refused to budge even with a very snug fitting cut-down larger Allen key. So I had to drill 'em (will post more detailed write-up and photos in near future). The nuts are cylindrical, about an inch long, and fit over studs sticking up out of the crank cases. The problem is not so much the thread as the remains of the nuts are still stuck solid in the cylinder! A mixture of dried up muck and corossion has glued them inside the recess. I am hoping to find some thin tube that fits over the nuts to cut them out, like a disk cutter. Maybe this should have been the first course of action before attempting undoing. In fact it is! All in all a right pain! Steve