thedktor

I need to remove the primary drive on my 1980 349 and found this thread, any other tips as it's sure on there tight! http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/index....y+drive+montesa seems freezer spray on the crank and heat on the gear is the way to go? Thanks Steve

I have just bought one of these! But......... After washing my 349 and giving it a good 10 min run up the road, and left overnight, when I took the head off there was still water in the cylinder bolt recesses.... Which means that after 29 years use the (Allen) bolts are rusty, and completely solid. The 7mm Allen key I could feel starting to bend and open up the heads so have paused for now. An engineering friend has suggested grinding down a larger, stronger key to get a better fit for the next attempt. Otherwise I will have to drill off the heads.... Steve

I have started stripping the bike and currently stopped until I get a 7mm Allen key, as you pointed out! I believe its same size as used on many car brake calipers so should be easy to get today. My concern is that the bolts will not undo - I cleaned the bike, gave it a 10 minute run up the road and when I took the head off later there was still water in the recess's where the infamous 7mm Allen barrel bolts sit. They looked quite rusty. I don't really want to have to drill them out.... Anyway, will update later how it goes Steve

OK thanks feetup. I did a search and there are a lot of different opinions! I thnk I will start at 50:1 and see how smokey the bike is. In the UK it doesnt usually get too hot, and I'm not the type to sit stationary in a mud hole with the throttle pinned.... On my modern Gasser I was using 70 or 80:1 and that seemed perfect as you would get a reassuring haze when revved but otherwise clean running. But I understand air-cooled like a little more oil. Steve

OK, fair point(s) ! I will ask again with pics next week Thanks Steve

I bought this bike for probably below market price, but am wondering about insurance cover. I hear some sell for more than

Hello On an old 349 I'm picking up in a few days the rear shocks can be disassembled, but depsite that and some fresh oil there is no damping... No idea if they are original or not, but does anyone know anything about such things? I assume there are not many makes you can actually take apart easily. Thanks for any help! Steve

Sorry if this has been asked a million times but when using modern synthetic oil do you use a bit less or does it muck up the mixture? So basically what ratio for the old Mont. Thank you.... Steve

What an excellent write-up of your restoration! Have you already posted it on this site, if not you should, it deserves its own thread Thanks all for the comments... Steve

There was no plan to do this but a series of complicated events has resulted in me now owning this little beauty: It

Thanks for the replies. I managed to haggle to

The Montesa in question is a mixture of good and bad, and I don

Well after all that it is a 349!! Says on the side, plus the ali sump shield, no frame tubes. Will start a new thread with some questions.... Steve

Ah, fantastic, thanks. Googled some images and I see what you mean (frame tubes) Cheers

Thanks for thr reply! Also you confirmed something else, it is registered but is presumably a '79 (or earlier) model. I havent actually seen the bike yet which is why I'm a bit vague - it was completely buried in the back of a garage! Would I be right in assuming 348 has 5 speed, 349 has 6 ? That would be an easy thing to check Cheers Steve

Hi all Looking at picking up an old 348, which is apparently 1980 vintage. Question is, what parts are still available. For example, say the crank is knackered, can you get the bearings? And pistons? Gaskets? Its from a good friend so have the opportunity to at least take the cylinder off to see whats what. The bike runs, so thats a start, but has not been used for 10 years. I want to come to a mutual agreement on price depending on what needs fixing...... Thanks Steve (Hants)

. On a 300 Raga yr 2004. I took the bashplate off to clean and check things over, and taking the rear bolts off first ie. the ones next to he footpegs, they pinged off and the rear of the bashplate hung down about 2 inches. In other words it doesn't curve with the engine/frame. I did attempt to bend it but its very tough material! So is it supposed to be shaped like this or should it follow the curve under the engine perfectly? I am guessing that constant bashing has just bent it slightly. Thanks for any advice..... Steve

Yes I can easily move the slide back and forth and there is no sign of any grit intake so normal wear it seems. I am thinking that when I last fitted it I had twisted it against the slide spring so there was a bit of rotational tension and hence no rattle. As an experiment I tried fitting it with 1/4 turn twist compared to its natural position and the noise did reduce a little. Wont be buying a new carb in the near future so guess I will have to live with it! Steve

Ouch! Sorry to hear of this and the cost, blimey. I have a 2004 300 Raga and am now a little paranoid! But I guess the lesson learnt is not to run the thing if it breaks. Steve

Yes the carb touching the engine cases was the first thing I checked but I always makes sure there is clearance anyway when fitting. I did notice that the carb vibrated a lot which has triggered a little light-bulb in my head - I was originally thinking it was intake pulses making the slide rattle, but I'm thinking now it is actually due to the carb vibration. I need to fiddle around with the boots and carb position to see if this can be reduced - when I take the carb off I remove the airbox/mudguard first so this could affect things as well presumably. Steve

On a 2004 300 Raga Rep. When I test rode the bike before buying I noticed a tinkling rattle coming from the carb at low revs. Once home discovered it was the slide rattling in the carb bore. Reassembled and rode it several times a few hours each time and the noise had gone strangely. Stripped the carb again recently, rode it after and and the noise is now returned worse than ever! It basically "tinkles" away continually at low revs - rather annoying. I hadn't touched the slide and left it attached to the throttle cable, so its a bit odd why things have changed, any ideas?? I took the carb off again and cannot find anything wrong at all.... Steve

OK thanks. Looks like this thread is a good one for anyone in a similar position... http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/index....p;hl=pro+clutch Steve

For my mate's 2003 280 - am I imagining it or is there a mod or adjustment to help with a stiff clutch? His bike's clutch is noticeably heavier than my 300. Thanks! Steve

Thanks for that Biff. It would be nice to have a proper manual but seems like most stuff can be worked out from the combined information sources, and I suppose its not as if trials bike are ultra high tech, or indeed normally need a lot of disassembly! Steve

Ah nice videos thanks. So no sign of a static paper type manual then? Steve