laser1

Yes it does, but if your comparing it to the Raga bike, you will need the light spring in the Keihin as well to match it.

I love the smooth yet crisp Keihin on the big bikes, but never got my old 250 dialed in with it. I preferred the low end responsiveness of the 26mm Dellorto, but didnt care for the classic PHBL lumpy idle. A correctly jetted VHST 26mm is the best of both worlds IMO. I agree with MM on the float height. The K's are finicky until you find that sweet spot - then all set. His jetting should be close for a 250 as well - maybe a 120 main, but will depend on the gas you use. Our 300's here like a bigger pilot - 48 seems to be the common size. (at sea-level) Your fluids should be fine - play with it as it will determine how the clutch engagement feels. Keep it clean! Try type F for a more abrupt engagement, gear oil for smoother. (can be draggy though) 400cc max.

pics here:

Jitsie has them.

FWIW - retorque the head after a couple of heat cycles.

Check your rad cap seal. also I've seen leaky inner head orings do that. The orings not only keep the water out of the jug - but pressure out of the cooling system . More often than not - its the cap seal though.

I was wondering how the lesser vacuum draw of the 125 would effect things. I'll have him throw a bigger jet in and see if things improve. I admit im still confused (very easy to do these days...) as I would think less air in would mean less gas is required. Testing is easy enough, so we'll start rich. Thanks.

What do folks run for Jetting on a 2012 GG125 with Dellorto Carb? My buddy is trying to get his sons 125 to pickup quicker. I have no experience with the 125's. His current setup PHBL26 105 main Clip in 2nd slot from top 45 Pilot - seems too big? but he says that's stock and what was in his last 125 that ran good. I use a 38-40 in the big bikes? I dont know what slide - Do they come with the same as the big bikes?

OK - you must be referring to the 2012 race. The 2013's haven't been announced yet (that I can see) and would explain why they have them now and the $600.

I agree with you - but the $600 difference is larger than the MSRP and I hate to wait cause it always turns out longer than promised. (With GG USA anyway ) I was told that GG was waiting for parts from Japan (carb/Ignition)for the Raga's to ship. I wonder how they built the Race bikes? Wouldn't they need the same parts?

Rose joint in the UK = Heim Joint in the US. Its a spanner vs wrench type of deal. Maybe I need "green" chrome. The nice thing about the flat black raga frames is there easy to paint match.

Or maybe run Both!

That was the story I heard too. Of course Adams Sachs shock was alot different than ours or maybe he couldnt keep the rose joint in the Ohlins. My dad gave the Al zokes off his bike to a customer who got the sachs steel jobs on his 08 Raga. Remember it well. It seems GG has ALOT of supplier issues in its history. I would love to see a Chrome frame again.

Wow - lots of damage there Mudboy. You hard riding types may want to have a look at the Jitsie linkage protectors to help avoid this type of failure in the future.

Same thing happened to a buddies 2010 race. I believe he pressed a steel sleeve into the shock body that was slightly wider to help protect the rose joint. The 601 probably cant hurt. I dont know the details, but imagined he had to machine the body to open up the ID and set the tolerances correctly. Most good machine shops would probably know the best approach here. Sting - the 2010 Raga's that shipped to the USA had a Sachs shock - the Race got the Ohlins that year! Go figure. Now they have reverted back to the raga being the flagship with the higher spec Reiger.

I wouldnt worry about the hillclimbs too much if the duty cycle isnt too high. Ive seen a buddy of mine practice just torturous high rpm static zaps for hours on end. Zap zap zap over and over again. The ATF gets so hot it gets that burnt almond smell when drained after a hard practice. And he wonders why his fan never shuts off....

Thanks for the comments and advice Jon. I think the additives point is an excellent one that I had omitted. I also got a chuckle regarding the 550cc comment. Makes you wonder sometimes.

Good question. Kinda hard to nail down to a specific figure, as IMO, it depends on a few use and environmental factors. I would say the average clubman rider should shoot for 15-20hrs and the Expert rider who uses the clutch alot to cut that in half. If you practice static zaps for an entire afternoon, and get the clutch real hot for extended time, then change it even sooner. (Like that night) If you just putt around and don't ride through alot of deep water, then over 20h is probably fine. 60 would be really asking for easily avoidable problems if you ask me. (I have no data to support that) So my math may be off of the above couple rides quote, but figure that is about right for most people and if they end up changing it more often than they need - its not a bad thing. I agree with you - and can feel the difference clean makes on the clutch feel too. Your bike even more so, as its new, and the clutch plates are bedding in. A clutch on a new bike is even more important to take care of. Flushing the bike out to remove any leftover machining bits, and clutch pak materials, getting a good look at the drain and clutch fill magnets and even wiping out the underneath side of the clutch spring is a good thing to do IMO. JSE has more experience and knowledge on this than I do and I "think" I recall he changes his bikes at 10-15 hrs. Maybe he'll chime in here.

The type F is preferred by expert riders who want a quick, hard biting clutch. There are many other options for the novice or intermediate rider. Whatever you use, change it often - like every couple of hard rides and keep it CLEAN. Thats another advantage of the type F - its CHEAP and available everywhere. I personally like how gear oil makes the clutch more progressive and allows "slightly" smoother shifts so use a synthetic gear oil.

If its more difficult in one direction - up shifts are hard, but down shifts are better, then the above centering procedure will help. Its not always as obvious and easy as in the video, but if you pay close attention to your adjustments, you can sneak up on the perfect alignment after a few tries.

I can appreciate the out of site mentality, but I think it would get old fast and would rather invest time upfront for a better solution - like a good bike rack, cover and lock setup for the back. If you do put it in the trailer - I recommend making sure you turn off your pilot light for your stove/heater whenever you put the bike inside and then venting the trailer with a fan before relighting.

You forgot the Mag cases. 2-3 pounds there. The shock on the Raga is about $1100 by itself and beats the Sachs and Ohlins dampers by alot IMO. Its also adjustable in both compression and rebound - unlike the race. (2011 anyway) Th eco will out perform 90% of the riders in the world, so not sure logic always applies. Only you can decide whats worth what. Of course you could always put a Reiger on a Eco.

Michael - I think you have to take the clutch side case off and maybe the clutch hub to see the access plate that lets you get at the shift shaft. Haven't seen one yet in person so take a photo for us if you check it out at some point.

Razer - You should be able to remove the head w/o removing the Rad.

Ham - I dont dismiss your statements regarding the KS failure % at all. The KS is weak under certain conditions and takes alot of abuse. GG should have made it beefier but theres not alot of room to do that. That said, there is no reason to experience a 60% failure rate if you take the preventative measure to engage the KS pawl before you lay into it. The KS pawl rotates down and is indexed outward simultaneously to mesh with the gear. It must have full tooth contact with the KS gear to have a full strength and a clash free start. The only way to ensure this happens is to take the slack out of the KS shaft and make sure your feel solid resistance of the pawl/gear before you power swing. Your 60% sounds to me like these folks must not be doing that. What I have also discovered is that Alot of people know how to KS the pro's but MANY dont know they still slap at it on occasion. Ive watched several people slap at it who swear they are not. Speaking of non scientific, I feel I can point out what riders will have problems and what riders wont by watching them. I often approach the slappers and try and tell them how and why the KS needs to be engaged 1st and this helps alot. The other problem can be related to KS lever position on the spline. For some reason, some people like to move the lever really far forward. This can also damage the pawl and stop mechanism. So why put up with it? To me, I feel the KS issue is avoidable and after employing the above methods, me and many of my friends and club members have not experienced any further problems for the past few years. There are several threads on other forums that support that as well. I also spoke with several of my buddies yesterday regarding these issues as well as the bad news that there 2012 Ragas haven't left Spain yet and will be at least 2 months late! I fully expected at least one of them to jump ship. (The new Betas look pretty cool IMO and I like how they ride in general) Nobody is jumping though. They all LOVE how the bike rides. To them nothing compares. They love the pro motor, love the handling, love the suspension, Love the brakes, Love the look. So my answer to the question posed above as to WHY GG is the best selling bike. My conclusion is - Love is blind.