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Your mechanic will find the motor very easy to work on, and there are many procedural tips and adjustments in the video that are invaluable. Unfortunately, the parts are VERY specific to Gas Gas.
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A80n7zq80n8&list=UUuuOSB4N2iUkW8dbbH7HJpw&index=2&feature=plcp
The procedure for adjusting the centering spring is at 6:30 minutes. You want to check the fused link as well. This is all located under the clutch hub. see part 1 and 2 of pro engine video's as lowbrow suggested on the utube channel.
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2002 was a terrible year for the Pro. It was also a completely new model over ten years ago! In all, Ive done 3 pro trannys. (the kind with wheels) None were my bike. None failed again. Just sold my 2009 after three years - shifts great, never a problem. Never been called lucky or new either. I wish I was. Sorry to hear you had a failure on your 10.
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With numbers being quoted in this thread - I guess were all just fools for buying such an inferior product. Or maybe there not anywhere near as bad as this thread indicates and are really nice bikes at a reasonable price. I dont claim there perfect. No bike is. But come on - 100% gearbox failure rate after 3 years and 50% failed twice? If that was the norm, GG would not survive - let alone prosper. The competition is way to close to allow for that - there really all great bikes nowadays.
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1st question - how many megapixel is it? Would make a great promotional bike for the Sony Mini DV line....
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All bikes have there own reliability quirks - if they didn't, the bike forum posts wouldn't be so full. Im happy to see that GG has modified the cases of the new bikes so that the gearbox can be serviced w/o splitting the cases.
If your breaking cases and KS pawls on GG's. Your not kicking it right. If you dont slap at the KS, you wont have any where near the number of problems.
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Iridium plug & maybe a headspacer.
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Info from the FIM website - lots of PDF's to sort through to finally find the right one. Lots of interesting rules regarding materials usages and restrictions. ( They dont let you use Ti for alot of things)
The minimum weights of the Trial motorcycles, for Outdoor events only, are:
• For 125cc cylinder machines: 65 kg
• For higher than 125cc cylinder machines: 66 kg
At any time during the event, the weight of the verified motorcycle must not be less
than the minimum weight required.
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If it looks cool - Im sure you would sell a few. Would be nice if it protected the upper frame tubes as well.
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Very big difference between those bikes. Not just more power, but the power on the 300 happens alot quicker than the JTX. My recommendation would be to ride the bike in some familiar sections if possible. If you do get it, make sure you put on a slow turn throttle and swap in a 06 clutch spring. Great upgrades IMO.
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More power everywhere - but the newer bikes are alot more manageable IMO. What year are you looking at?
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Hydro-formed AL frame. Cool!
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+1 lineaway. Chips on the backside of the Idler gear can also the cause noise you describe. Note - the backside chips are hard to see w/o taking it off.
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The 2011 has a 2 pc head. It is made to made to provide for adjustable compression. In your case, you can remove the std insert and replace it with a low compression version. That will make the bike smoother and slower reving in the mid range. Will also be easier to start and run OK on lower octane fuel. I suggest a black tube throttle as well if you don't already have one. (Actually the 1st thing to do.)
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I think this is the technique NeilH was referring to above.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QdM4qkAqywk&feature=channel_page
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As I recall, the 2011 rear wheel is D.I.D. style as well - no rim band. I think.
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I dont know what the engine only weights - but shipped a engine and frame in a 3 lb box and was just under 70 lbs.
What is your limit? If your close, you could remove the flywheel fairly easy.
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http://www.trialspartsusa.com/youtube.html
See engine repair video's on above site. Invaluable info from Jim Snell - the USA parts importer for GG.
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Sounds like your suckin dirt into the carb and clogging the pilot. You can confirm this by pulling the pilot jet and looking through it. You may want to make sure the back side of the air box hose is properly seated on the carb donut and maybe switch to a new air filter. Also - check that the throttle slide cover is seated to the carb body and not cracked.
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You can measure the squish or just replace it with the same thickness (or thicker) that you take out.
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all classes here:
http://mototrials.us/wp-content/uploads/2012/05/CA_All_1.pdf
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Thanks for sharing your solution Jon.
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I believe the last tie breaker is that they arm wrestle for it.
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The shift shaft xchange w/o case split is a real nice feature IMO. Way to go GG!
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